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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Stefan88, with your order you're helping likely the most talented cordwainer of this day keep up his passion and the Gentle Craft. You are the man -- heja, Stefan!
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Whoever coined that phrase hadn't ever seen a shoe getting reblocked.
     
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  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Surely, the "Gentle Craft" must be lace making.

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Haha thanks. Note that I'm not doing it out of charity though!
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2014
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Elizabethan in origin--The Shoemaker's Holiday or The Gentle Craft.--Thomas Dekker 1599

    Gentle refers to shoemaking being a noble Trade probably because the patron Saint of Shoemaking-- St Crispin-- was a Roman of noble birth before he converted to Christianity and was disowned by his family. To earn a living he took up shoemaking.

    He was martyred in 288 AD in Soissons France.

    Might be regional but I don't know what "reblocking" is...
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2014
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  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Good stuff. This continues to be one of my favorite threads. Trying to plan a trip down to Kobe, but I can't seem to get Spigola's opening hours in 2015. Anybody knows which day of the week they're closed? Not sure if he accepts CC, so probably going to bring enough cash down (assuming I don't get mugged). Was reading Nutcracker's post that Spigola prices from Japan are as below, in 2013. Anybody aware of the latest set of prices?
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2014
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :fonz:

    Check out Spigola`s pricing page
    http://www.spigola.jp/#/news140401

    Price is 123000 and up~ now. They are closed on Wednesday.
     
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  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Sweet! Probably going to purchase designs similar to the two pairs below with minor variations, and a pair of lazy man oxfords, so I hope that bringing 130k JPY for each should suffice. That llama leather looks darn enticing. One of the pics courtesy of Ethandesu.

    How much should we set aside for the trees? They're supplied separately, I suppose.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2014
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Make sure you check the prices from the link I posted above. Lazy-man oxford (side elastics) go for 146K JPY

    Lllma leather has an up-charge, forgot how much. For trees, Spigola offers several: Off the shelf generic LCA trees, 3 piece lasted trees (like my llama shoes above), and a premium lightweight lasted trees (from the bottom picture by t Armoury).
     
  11. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yups. Will check it out! Can't load at work. Bah.
     
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  12. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    It's the name for the task of combining a slightly smaller shoe with a slightly larger last, for whatever reason.
     
  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Do you usually wet the whole upper so it's more pliable? What's the difference between reblocking and stretching?
     
  14. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    You'd want to wet the upper somehow before any adjustment of a finished shoe like that, a small tweak would simply bounce back if dry and a big tweak needs some assistance. There's not much difference in the effect, but a stretch could possibly be done with a stretcher while a reblock would suggest a reasonably different last, liberal distribution of chalk and a large mallet.
     
  15. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  16. MSchapiro

    MSchapiro Senior member

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    Given the recent strength of the USD that is becoming a very tempting price.
     
  17. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  18. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  19. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  20. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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