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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    3 people like this.
  2. Macs

    Macs Senior member

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    That full brogue wingtip in hatchgrain is simply stunning....[​IMG]
     
  3. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    That is not a good advertisement - they seem far too long, too big in the instep too, and socklessness is no way to treat any good shoe, let alone with special antique leather. Ugh.

    Still, the Quadrifoglio pics are a soothing balm....
     
  4. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Thank God we have such an expert on shoe fittings to correctly pointing out the fitting deficiencies of a bespoke shoemaker. The top Japanese bespoke shoemaker with Italian heritage nevertheless.
     
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  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    You would think. But look at them, man!

    Do you think that is a deliberate stylistic choice? The way the toes are curled up into the air like that, or the gap under the fully-closed lacing that's visible on the right shoe? Maybe he likes it that way, or usually wears moderately thick socks. Maybe the flying toes are cool. It just doesn't look right to me. But this is the internet, so my opinion matters no more than any other idiot's.

    Anyway, perhaps instead of trying to pick a fight, you would like to point out where you think I'm wrong? "But he's a shoemaker" is a lazy argument.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2014
  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Shoe fit looks good.

    Don't buy Russian Reindeer leather shoes.
     
  7. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    You think it's just lacking the structural integrity to hold its form? I guess that would account for both the things I said, and the wrinkliness. I've never seen the stuff, but am as taken in by the romance of it as anyone. Your warning is duly noted, with thanks!
     
  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Well its only creasing at the vamp like it supposed to be. Otherwise, there's no creasing at the toe caps (unlike Saint Crispins), the quarters at waist and heel looks very clean as well, and shoe waist has enough support to not sag.

    But the shoes looks either recently resoled or recently made; dont see too much wear at either heel or toe.

    Its the leather.
     
  9. The Shoe Snob

    The Shoe Snob Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    It means nothing that he is a shoemaker from Japan with Italian heritage. Fit and look is based on personal choice. I have a friend who is a brilliant bespoke cutter from Savile Row, but you would never guess it by looking at his own suits.

    @mimo was clearly stating an opinion and he was right. It's not a good look, even if the shoes fit perfectly, because from an outsider's perspective they don't look like they do.

    Toe curl up is never a good look, I don't care who it is on.
     
    2 people like this.
  10. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Agreed, and his tie is f**kin ridiculous too. I'd still get shoes made by him in a heartbeat if I could.
     
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  11. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I'm surprised no one is commenting on the slightly short trouser hem... :hide:
     
  12. Macs

    Macs Senior member

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    And the excessively long jacket... [​IMG]
     
  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Everyone is entitled to have his own opinion, but shoe fit can be determined objectively.

    Maybe as a former shoemaker who made a dozen shoes, you could objectively offer your expertise as in why the toes are curling up.
     
  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Its cut very full and short at the same time with proper drape on a very slim man.

    Unlike some full build Wantalians with short and tight flood capri.
     
  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW, toe curl can also be caused by not treeing the shoes after wear. Esp. with the vogue for extended toe lasts, and little or no toe spring it's almost inevitable.
     
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  16. The Shoe Snob

    The Shoe Snob Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    from what I have seen of his shoes while i was in Florence, they are made on slightly overly elongated lasts which means that even if the fit is perfect in the shoe itself, his toes will fall short of the natural shape and due to the excess in the toe box will cause this natural curl up, especially if his toes cannot physically push them down if they are +1 inch below....

    Then of couse, as DW said above, it can only be intensified if the shoes in question are not ever having shoe trees in them or have little to no toe spring, which many bespoke shoes don't..
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  17. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  18. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A great looking pair of bespoke Full Brogue Adelaides by HIRO YANAGIMACHI
    Made for a client from NYC, who apparently learned about Hiro-san through STYLEFORUM~ :thumbs-up:

    A big congrats! :fonz:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    HIRO YANAGIMACHI Facebook
     
    2 people like this.
  20. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Hi,NC!
    This thread having great influence.
     
    1 person likes this.

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