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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Il Quadrifoglio raises his game!

    Single Strap Monk
    Espresso calf and lizard w/ original buckles

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2014
  2. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    Love the original buckles. Very unique and classy!!!
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    1 person likes this.
  4. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Visited his workshop 2 weeks ago, and it looked amazing. Really nice guy too!
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sorry too cool to pass up

    TYE SHOEMAKER Bespoke Button Up Boots

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    TYE Shoemaker FB
     
  6. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Kinky...in a classic, timeless, and artisanal way.

    Or perhaps I've been ruined by certain films I've seen in my younger years, and I fail to see the charm.
     
  7. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    Awesome! I really like his work on female shoes. His work on male shoes however, is just too feminine for my taste. Amazing craftmanship nonetheless...
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2014
  8. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

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    If those are anything like the bal button boots I tried at aubercy they will take an hour to get on (with button hook). Still, TYE is the maker that impressed me the most based on the pics posted here.
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It appears, apart from the two buckles at the top, all the other closings are "Sam Browne" (or button) studs with a corresponding "buttonhole" punched into the leather.


    [​IMG]

    http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/button-stud-11310-007.aspx

    No need for button hooks, although the services of a maid would definitely come in handy. :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    It would be interesting if that were true. I don't think the photo is clear enough or large enough to determine for sure. I have to wonder at the dark patch in the middle of each "button." If it's thread, or the end of a "hidden" wire loop (like most vintage shoe buttons have), then it's not a Sam Browne. It could be a reflection, of course but, if so it seems to be a reflection that defies light as it remains in the center of the "button" no matter where on the boot it is.

    Additionally, it seems the maker has sewn along the edge of the buttonhole. If the button hole were punched, there would be a circular line of stitching around the button itself. I don't see that.

    One problem with the Sam Browne stud...particularly in this kind of application...is that it is mounted on a rigid post. I suspect, if those are indeed Sam Browne studs, the boots would be uncomfortable, digging into the ankle and instep as the boot/foot is flexed. Shoe buttons have a wire loop so that they will move and twist and turn with the movement of the shoe.

    --
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  11. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    The time taken to button and unbutton boots like this can be part of the pleasure, whether for the wearer or a significant other...
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's quite possible those are not "Sam Browne" studs, but the principle of the studs seems to apply: small stud, large hole/slit; so the button/stud is easily put into place by downward pressure. The button holes look to me extremely large and stitched with thread on a button hole sewing machine. However it was done, it appears there is no need for a button hook.

    But for all we know, it's perfectly possible (to save the maid's wages) the whole metal work is simply decorative and there is a big zip on the inside of the boot. :)


    Sam Browne studs used in shoemaking:

    [​IMG]

    John Lobb (ready-to-wear) Helldon (with a big zip down the back).
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    What would be really interesting is if they were indeed shoe buttons. That would indicate that someone was making them again. Or could make them ...even if only by special request.
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here are some other shoes by TYE with stud buttons. Can`t tell if they are indeed the same hardware, but seems like it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Those are definitely Sam Browne studs.

    Chances are that the others are, as well.

    --
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  16. goodlensboy

    goodlensboy Senior member

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    Excellent photography, as if we are looking at the shoe in person. And its really delicious.
     
  17. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    il Quadrifoglio Trunk Show in OAK ROOM,Taipei Taiwan
    September 6th & 7th, 2014.
    Photo from GQ TAIWAN
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Yuki Shirahama Bottier
    Suede Tassel Loafers for his customer
    Photo from Chiaro
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Hey Nutcracker..... I always wonder how these boots will look like on the owner.

    Just curious about this female who has such a refined taste.
     
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Couture boots like that would look gorgeous on models walking on runways
    But I can`t imagine anyone I know personally who may be daring enough to wear that on the street though :D
     
    1 person likes this.

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