Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Indeed what a touch to get that shine!
     


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  3. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Definitely one of the best craft I have seen.
     


  4. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    The heels on these are fetchingly drop-dead-gorgeous.....
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013


  5. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Main-d'or by Murata Eiji

    Bespoke, Quarter-Brogue Oxford

    [​IMG]
    from LAST issue 03
     


  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    really unbelievable. nice touches.
     


  8. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Great job nutcracker, thanks.
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks Fang!
     


  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I scanned these pics from the past LAST magazine, and took the liberty of translating them.

    Atsuta Koji (Atsuta Kutsuten)

    [​IMG]

    A graduate from the Tresham Institute (UK) > worked at Frank Harvey (UK) making custom shoes > hired by Kawamura Prosthetic (Japan) as the chief designer of orthopaedic shoes > most recently worked at Stephano Bemer chiefly as a modelista; before starting his own Bespoke practice in Osaka.

    Last making process:

    Lasts are made completely from scratch, not from a base last or a rough turned stock. Instead, resin casts are made from plaster molds of the client's feet, and shaped accordingly.

    [​IMG]
    Making of a plaster mold

    [​IMG]
    The completed mold. Resin are poured into this.

    [​IMG]
    Perfect foot imprints in cast foam resin.

    [​IMG]
    The cast imprints are shaped, based on his medical/orthopedic knowledge and an aesthetic sense honed at Bemer's workshop

    [​IMG]
    Custom orthopedic insoles are made for those who require.

    [​IMG]
    The left one with a deep instep was shaped to accommodate an insole. The right one doesn't. The space between the ball is relatively flat.

    [​IMG]
    Check shoes in plastic resin are made by applying/pasting the resin over the last.

    [​IMG]
    (right) The completed last
    (center) The check-shoes with insoles and mock heels. 1st test fitting.
    (left): Test shoes. The counters are already in. After the final fitting, the shoes are relasted and finished.

    [​IMG]
    The completed pair, and the last made with foam resin.

    [​IMG]
    His only sample shoe adorn the window.

    [​IMG]
    Those living in Osaka are in luck.

    Pictures/text taken from LAST Issue 03.
     


  11. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    I scanned these pics from the past LAST magazine, and took the liberty of translating them.

    Atsuta Koji (Atsuta Kutsuten)

    :worship:
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013


  12. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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  13. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Dear God
     


  14. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Unfair
     


  15. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    +1
     


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