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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi FP

    Last year, Hankyu, Beams, and UA all started their sales on 6/28, but I heard they are pushing their sale back to early July this year (date not confirmed yet).

    Isetan and Mitsukoshi already announced their sale dates. Starts a bit late on 7/17
     
  2. dappertimes

    dappertimes Well-Known Member

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    Such a great etiquette. Very dapper.
     
  3. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    I had a feeling that Isetan would be later, and I suppose I can handle missing that madness: last time was just a little too chaotic for me.

    I see that Beams and UA are both in 'pre-sale' mode on their websites, so surely they can't be too far off? I picked up a couple of suits last time and I want another three or so, plus some sports coats, shirts, and of course SHOES...
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Boot Black at the Pitti

    [​IMG]

    and some new premium shoe creams. Tasty looking :)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Columbus FB
     
    2 people like this.
  5. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    Sep 27, 2013
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    Paris / Tokyo
    I passed by Boot Black at Pitti.... but Unfortunately, they were too busy.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
  6. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Which flavor is the most delicious? [​IMG]
     
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Imai Hiroki / Il Quadrifoglio Trunk Shows @ Hankyu MENS Osaka 6/22~6/23

    Shoemakers Imai Hiroki and Atsuki Qnai (Il Quadrifoglio) are having a joint trunk show at Osaka right now.
    They are among the 15 craftsmen or so participating at the Premium Bags & Shoes Order Fair at Hankyu MENS.
    Show ends tomorrow (Monday)!

    Price for IQ bespoke starts from ¥237,600. Imai Hiroki MTO starts from ¥59,400.

    [​IMG]
    Mr. Imai Hiroki, marking his 10th anniversary this year

    Hankyu MEN`S link
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    New Bespoke sample shoes in the works by Il Quadrifoglio:

    Plaintoe Derby in faux-Carpincho Suede & Seemless Wholecut in D. Brown calf

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Stay tuned for more pics of the new samples! :fonz:
     
  9. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    i always thought it's genuine carpincho[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2014
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nah, its textured (cow) suede. Looks great though, I say 90% like the real thing :D It`s also available in olive.

    Other than Qnai-san, I`ve seen Ugolini, Spigola, and Il Micio offer the same leather as well. I assume they are readily available in Italy.
     
  11. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    beautifully
    clean
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    would you
    know why
    they prefer
    to use this
    instead of
    the real
    thing
    ??

    I was told
    it is difficult
    to work with
    and utmost
    care has
    to be taken
    like for
    kid goat

    also teh skins
    are full of scars
    so great care
    has to be taken
    when cutting
    the pattern

    here are
    real carpincho
    suede
    from meccariello

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very nice Meccariello!

    I assume real Carpincho`s (or quality ones) are very difficult to come by in Japan. I`ve never seen them offered by any maker here.
     
  14. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    My understanding is that it is pretty rare to come by in general...not just in Japan...especially dyed in certain colors...
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. rexet

    rexet Senior member

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    Paris, FR
    I just found this picture on the Yohei Fukuda website... what a gorgeous pair of boots!
    After having done some search I found this topic. Great cause I really want to learn more about japanese shoe makers!

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  16. barky

    barky Senior member

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    Jul 7, 2013
    You better stop now or before you know it, you're on the slippery slope to Japanese bespoke. This thread is full of shoes that will make you **** in your pants.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. rexet

    rexet Senior member

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    Yeah I think I'm gonna unsubscribe... in a couple of days... I promise :embar:
    I just got a mail from Yohei Fukuda answering my questions about it works. It really makes want to go to Japan!
     
  18. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    I've typed this before but I'll type it again: I believe the Japanese have overcome their European masters. They make the most beautiful, ornate and highest quality shoes available in our era. Nutcracker could explain us all why -- is it just because they spend more hours making each last and pair than the Europeans?
     
  19. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I think it is inherent in the culture, that the Japanese strive for perfection, in whatever they are undertaking. It is something I have always highly respected about the culture...
     
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    Several comments, v...

    First, I think you are right to some extent. But ask yourself how many Japanese manufacturers are there? One? None?

    What most people here think of, when they think of European shoes, is RTW and mass production. As far as I can see, most if not all the Japanese makers are bespoke. Compare the Japanese masters to someone like Anthony Delos or Jan Petter Myhre, and I suspect that the difference and perceived advantage diminishes greatly.

    Also if RTW work is the standard in Europe and that standard is what everyone expects, it is much harder to work to a higher standard for European bespoke makers simply because no one values or wants to pay for the "presentation" work.

    And a lot of what distinguishes the Japanese work is superficial--"presentation." The shine all over the shoes is beautiful but not only is it temporary, it can actually end up making the shoe look a bit tawdry in the initial days of wear because a lot of that shine/wax will flake off.

    Similarly with the ornamental scoring on the bottoms. It looks nice..maybe more because it is novel than for any other reason...but it's gone tomorrow.

    To some extent, I think ...my opinion only...the old adage "less is more" applies here. There is a sentiment that the leather should speak for itself among good European makers--a minimalism that prefers finesse. The Austro-Hungarian school notwithstanding.

    Don't get me wrong...I admire the Japanese makers immensely (and there seems to be more of them to admire) but perhaps it's a little different philosophy.

    Having said that, the underlying reason an individual makes shoes--the philosophy that guides his hands and informs his work--is everything. At one critical level the choice is stark--you have to decide whether to make money or make shoes, because you can't do both. You can't serve two masters.

    --
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
    1 person likes this.

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