Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I heard from a pro shoeshiner that BB wax polishes don't shine as easily as Saphir. but then BB also has their signature 'High-shine' formula that is supposed to be a fool-proof way to get a mirror shine.

    If you want to compare BB vs Saphir price-wise, they are about the same. Columbus (the manufacture) positions these as their high end product, and claims their polishes use as less artificial ingredients/solvents as possible.

    The lineup is pretty extensive, going up to a handmade leather trunk filled with goodies that cost $3000 USD+. I've used the stuffs mentioned above, but not their wax polishes.

    The 'Collections' shoe cream look quite tempting though. It used to be called 'Aging Cream' and its supposed to contain a high dose of pigments so you can replenish the mottled effect of an antique/museum leather (by finger painting on the leather??). I guess they changed the name to give it a wider appeal (as a general purpose cream).
     


  2. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Or from the same supplier.
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I don't really think it does. In fact, I would be a little leary of putting a conditioner on a leather outsole except under extreme conditions.

    FWIW, one of the best soling materials for wading in rocky, boulder strewn rivers is felt. Rubber doesn't come close for gripping wet or algae covered rock. The reason that felt is so good is that it is fibrous. Perhaps it comes down to surface area but each fiber grips individually, conforming to rough surfaces and "catching" on any protrusions no matter how small.

    To some extent, leather is the same way--it is a fibrous mat and very good in wet conditions for most people--better than rubber, IMO. The problem with leather is that it wears more quickly in wet conditions. This is not because the leather is dissolving, it is because the moisture softens the bonds between the fibers. Adding a moisturizing creme may very well have the same effect and actually accelerate wear while at the same time...because of the oils and fats...decrease the ability of the leather to gain traction.

    If you are going to use a conditioner...on any and any part of fine leather...use something that disappears into the skin--your own skin. If it leaves an oily residue it's no better for the leather than slathering a layer of tallow on your arm would be.

    --
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2013


  4. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Very well put. I use rejuvinator oil that has good penetration, only once a year.
     


  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for your insight and advise DW. I notice that after the outsoles recover from the rain (a few days or so), they may look awfully dry with flaky fiber. I was under the impression that overtly dry soles tend to wear faster (or even crack), and the conditioner (or mink oil?) helps replenish the lost moisture??
     


  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well, to some extent that will depend on the quality of the leather. But I don't see any problem with an occasional application of Bick4 or Lexol, as long as you let the leather dry a day or so before walking it again.

    FWIW, in over 40 year, I've never worn anything but leather outsoles...in all kinds of weather and with high heels (western boots) and never had any problems with either traction or drying and cracking. And, in fact, my experience and the experience of customers has been that treated outsole don't wear any longer and probably, usually, wear out faster. I even experimented with siliconing my outsoles for a while.

    Of course, I tend to favour good quality outsoling and I can replace my outsoles whenever I deem necessary. But beyond that the logic just doesn't support the notion that, all other things being equal, conditioning an outsole with heavy creams or oils helps much, if at all.

    No matter what we talk about here...with regard to shoes or leather...and the Traditions notwithstanding, there is a logic and a rationale for every aspect, every cause and effect, and every choice makers have settled on over the centuries. It's not magic, really it isn't. The explanation is out there.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2013


  7. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    magic shoes...fantastic
     


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Appreciate your insight! I'll try not to stress too much about keeping my soles looking pretty :)
     


  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    There you go! :fonz:

    Sometimes I think folks just don't "get" shoes...the whole concept and genius of shoes. I mean outsoles are meant to be worn out and replaced...and, at bottom, meant to be replaced many times with as little fuss as possible.
     


  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    Our favorite(?) men's style magazine, MEN'S EX has a new issue out today!

    Not too much on shoes, but there's a spread introducing 2 of our favourite stores in Asia, The Armoury and Kevin Seah Bespoke!
     


  11. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    DW, what's your say on vintage leather soles? I've taken to smacking a layer or two of shoe cream or conditioner on old pairs to rejuvenate the leather, which must have dried up entirely after, say, thirty years of idling in someone's closet. Dry leather cracks faster, after all.
     


  12. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Il Micio Di Hidetaka Fukaya

    Take a 360° virtual tour of his workshop with google street view.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2013


  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    VRavio,

    Again use something "light." If it feels like it might be good for your skin it might be good for the leather. Beyond that, if it has dried up that much nothing will bring it back. If there's some life left in the leather, then a conditioner such as Lexol or Bick4 will suffice. Oils or creams heavy in oil will not revive dead leather and will suffocate good leather.
     


  14. VegTan

    VegTan Senior member

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    Sorry!

    http://kokontrip.exblog.jp/21418994/
    [​IMG]
     


  15. emiristol

    emiristol Senior member

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    How does one acquire copies of Men's Ex in the US?
     


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