Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The small one looks like 1/4 the size of the larger one (with a traditional robust French heel). The heel height looks the same. I wonder if it was a pain for the shoemaker to pull it off.
    Beautifully finished though! :)
     


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Barky, too kind of a word!!

    I've tried going through the entire thread. Almost made me barf scrolling over and over... :eek:

    Gianni, for convenience, check out this link to all the shoemaker visits!
     


  3. barky

    barky Senior member

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    Hey NC, just got back. Just enough time to go to Hankyu Mens and Maker's Shirt. No Lobbs. Hankyu was so so, mostly low and mid tier stuff. A fair bit of middling Italians/Spanish. Only Union Imperial's selection was large for the Japs. English representation was poor, with a full brogue C&J burg cordo being the highlight. G&G got a total of 3 shoes. EG maybe 10 but half of it was Berkeley/Chelsea and a handful of bog standard Tricker's. Oh and that Berluti boutique with its patinaed club chairs. Got of a bunch of Saphirs and a couple of buttons down though. Gonna plan better next time round and don't let friends tag along.
     


  4. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Thank you for your welcome message ... this thread is really cool. I see many artisans very good ... and if I want to do I do not know what a bespoke craftsman from. What's the best for you?
     


  5. barky

    barky Senior member

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    Ha ha, NC is the resident expert here. But if you ask me, my favourites are TYE, Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi. Yanagimachi-san has a very generous MTO offer (with custom fitting) twice a year which I hope to be a part of soon. However, the above 3 has a very delicate style (you don't know whether to wear them or put it on a pedestal[​IMG]) which might not suit you if you are into the more flamboyant Italian designs. Ryota Hayafuji is also very good and is based in Germany. And the best bespoke deal ever should be Taizo Emori with prices starting from a ridiculous US$1.5k. Here's a taste of Jap Shoe p0rn for you :

    Marquess
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Hiro Yanagimachi
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    TYE
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    below are only test shoes
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    the final completely new actual shoe as chosen by the client
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    and finally, our own NC's bespoke by Atushi Qnai (Il Quadrifoglio Kobe), a wholecut with fake broguing with hidden seam :

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice introduction! Thanks Barky! I just happen to live in Japan, hence the easy access to the goodies!! :) What amazes me is that there are enough variety and depth of talent in Japan right now, that consumers (like us) have the luxury to choose the shoemaker(s) that appeals the most to them, whether it is the style, personality, price, philosophy etc.....
     


  7. Deviantfish

    Deviantfish Member

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    Apologies if this question is redundant, but I couldn't find it while searching through the thread. My question is about lasting - I remember hearing when I was first getting in to shoes that some of the mainstream makers (particularly Alden, if I remember), made specific lasts for the Japanese market that had a higher instep. If they do, I presume this would mean that the majority of Japanese makers have similar high-instep lasts, yes? The reason I ask is that for most dress shoes I try, D widths fit me perfectly, but due to my instep I have a rather large gap between the uppers at the tongue.
     


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes comparatively to US and European RTW shoes, Japanese shoes tend to have high instep and wider ball girth to accommodate typical Japanese feet. However, the trend nowadays (among a handful of nicer brands) is to make the lasts resemble those offered by premium European brands that a lot of Japanese have been preferring. I have tried Miyagi Kogyo's RTW shoes (very English in style) before, and despite having a very low instep and narrow feet, I found the fit to be quite snug across the board.

    I'm not aware that Alden makes specific lasts that are exclusive to Japan.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2013


  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Modified last is semi exclusive to Japan?
     


  10. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    Modified + cordovan
    = Japanese market exclusive

    I think they did not change last shape for Japan market.
     


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    From my observation about half of Alden models being offered in stores are Modified Last.


    Anatomica in Paris (and also in Japan) carries some of the best makeups of ML Shell Cordovan shoes.

    I'm not so knowledgable about the geopolitics of Modified Last though :D
     


  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mr. Satoshi Kuroki, from John Lobb Paris, will be holding a Pattern Making seminar (for advanced students in shoemaking) and a Design seminar (beginner, advanced) at Benchwork Studies on 12/28 (Sat). A rare opportunity, and seats are limited (12 each). The Pattern class will be cutting a double monk design. I'm not sure if there is a charge to participate.

    Benchwork Study is run by Ms. Yukiko Bassett Okawa, Kuroki's fellow classmate from the Cordwainers College.

    I saw this announcement from their website blog. Please inquire BWS for more info.

    http://www.benchmade.jp/home/index2.html
     


  13. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    more I look at this work of art and more I fall in love ... fantastic.
     


  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    !!!

    That sounds awesome. Is he visiting home or taking JLP orders?
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2013


  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think he's just visiting home (back from Northampton). Although I heard that he continues to work as an (bespoke) outworker on his side, I don't think he's involved in the JLP's Bespoke operation.
     


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