Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    And what is that which makes bespoke shoes more comfortable? And what better to finish?

    Last time i visited Saion, they said not accepting any order for the year anymore
    not sure because of too much order or not enough manpower..
     


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Wow, I know Yokoyama san spends 200% of his effort in each pair, and he takes only a single day off an entire year. He is not afraid to decline an order if he doesn't think he can give his full attention (usually 3 or 4 pairs a month). Last time I saw, he had a new assistant/apprentice working for him.
     


  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Both Fukuda and Saion are exceptional shoemakers, but with very different styles. Fukuda san is very much into pursuing the English style of the early 20th century (IMO not so different from G&G's ideals), that I (and obviously many others) find very elegant. Yokoyama-san (Saion) has a very distinctive, sharp style, but more so, he is concerned about trying new things and pushing the limits of his shoemaking skills. I've seen his shoes with outsoles stitched with 20 spi, an amazing feat in today's standard.

    Check out this article I translated a while ago. It features Yohei Fukuda, Saion, as well as Osamu Egawa, Misawa & Workshop, and Emori Custom Shoemaker.
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/340499/...cracker-the-east-tokyo-shoe-walk#post_6214572
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2013


  4. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    sounds about right on the new assitant, on the day i visit them Yokoyama-san is not in the shop
    maybe because i'm foreigner they don't accept the order?
     


  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    I highly doubt so. I know he has quota of sorts, and stops taking orders after it's met. Quite a few shoemakers take some time off a year to concentrate on finishing off the back orders.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013


  6. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    yeah maybe they got to finish the existing order first and then start to accepting new one
    my understanding that you have to come back for several fittings at Saion,
    for a tourist that can be a little difficult to schedule the timing,
    so shouldn't that be consideration for Saion when accepting order?
     


  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    I recall his MTO (Pattern Order) requires no fitting? Bespoke shoes requires 2 fitting.

    Yes it would be a pain travelling back and forth! I highly doubt if he is willing to do remote fitting/shipping trial shoes :)

    I just called Mr. Yokoyama. He also told me he's not taking orders, possibly into next year.
    He also says he welcomes taking orders from oversea clients (assuming they can visit Japan multiple times, I suppose).
     


  8. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    im going to tokyo next march, will yokoyama-san start accepting new order by that time?
    hoping in march going to have alot of trunk show [​IMG]
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    :fonz: We'll see!

    Since you'll be in Tokyo, you can just knock on the shoemaker's doors! :D
     


  10. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

    Messages:
    271
    Likes Received:
    308
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2013
    Spigola Full Brogue Oxford , Made by Koji Suzuki
    COL
    [​IMG]
    Bordeaux
     


  11. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Likes Received:
    1,350
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012

    Cool and elegant. Really.
     


  12. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,534
    Likes Received:
    74
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2006
    Location:
    Was Sinndom, Now is Rolexdom
    
    those shoe tree's are depressing
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    :lol:

    I believe they're actually a pair of modified LCA tree.

    For a bit more, he also offers lasted 3 pieces, and for a lot more, custom lighweight hinged tree (the ones he stuffs in the sample bespokes)
     


  14. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,534
    Likes Received:
    74
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2006
    Location:
    Was Sinndom, Now is Rolexdom
    

    OMG, for HK $35000 you get some crappy modified RTW tree, it seem a bit of a con IMO
     


  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Oh, I was talking about the MTO shoes (trees are extra, even the LCA ones). I assume the picture above is an MTO pair.

    Spigola Bespoke comes standard with the nice hinged ones.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2013


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by