Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[bengal-stripe]



Would the volumous toe allow for a shorter shoe? As it allows our true toes fill up the front of the shoes?

Not necessarily! If I read the photograph correctly, the volume seems to be above the toes. That would not influence the sole shape of the last.

They say, in a well-fitting shoe, the toes ought to be able to play the piano. In this case the toes seem to like playing Liszt, Scriabin or Rachmaninov.

 

[nutcracker]

Another upcoming show...

Spigola Capolavoro @ United Arrows Roppongi Men`s
9/26 (Thu) ~9/28 (Sat)
Price: ¥126,000~ (MTO)

Koji Suzuki`s brother, Etsuo (an Italian trained shoemaker in his own right), will be there to take orders.
Master shoeshiner Matsumuro (aka Maestro) will also be there to offer his polishing service

UA News

 

[nutcracker]

aaaand another one, this one sooner (this weekend)

CLEMATIS Bespoke and MTO Show @ New Otani Hotel, Tokyo
9/14 (Sat) ~ 9/15 (Sun)

Clematis Ginza

 

[DWFII]



Many Hong Kong shoemakers used this method for lasting (the extended lining), it is much better than make a stupid hole on the upper like some Englsh shoemakers

However, I saw Masaru Okuyama San used a even better trick to do it.

Fishball,

I have to agree with you about the tack--it's tacky.

But there's an even better way of avoiding the tack than leaving surplus lining or adding a piece of tape...Simply last the shoe "seats up." When the shoe is "hoisted" after the forepart is lasted, the topline will be tight. So tight that if the heel curve is anywhere near an actual curve, it will be difficult to pull the shoe down too far.

 

[luk-cha]



Another upcoming show...

Spigola Capolavoro @ United Arrows Roppongi Men`s
9/26 (Thu) ~9/28 (Sat)
Price: ¥126,000~ (MTO)

Koji Suzuki`s brother, Etsuo (an Italian trained shoemaker in his own right), will be there to take orders.
Master shoeshiner Matsumuro (aka Maestro) will also be there to offer his polishing service

UA News

love the profile on that shoe

 

[poorsod]

I find it interesting that Berluti is advertising Delos in Japan. Last year I went to the Berluti Paris store asking to see if I could work with Delos and I was pretty much turned away. They got really defensive asking me why I wanted to work with Delos because "it is Berluti". I got the run around for a few days and my time in Paris ran out. I felt the level of customer service is unacceptable, particularly for bespoke. Tony Gaziano is so much easier to work with and a lot more responsive.

 

[cgo]



Shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji will be back to Japan (from Germany) for his long awaited Fall `13 Trunk Shows
Old Hat Osaka 9/14~9/16
Old Hat Tokyo 9/21~9/23

Bespoke Starts from ¥350K~

For those who remember, Hayafuji san does some really nice looking blind welted shoes

Old Hat Archive

Nutcracker,

do you happen to know where Hayafuji-san's store is in Munich? As I will be there in about a month's time (hopefully not coinciding with his Japan trip), I might drop by.

Thanks

 

[chogall]

I find it interesting that Berluti is advertising Delos in Japan. Last year I went to the Berluti Paris store asking to see if I could work with Delos and I was pretty much turned away. They got really defensive asking me why I wanted to work with Delos because "it is Berluti". I got the run around for a few days and my time in Paris ran out. I felt the level of customer service is unacceptable, particularly for bespoke. Tony Gaziano is so much easier to work with and a lot more responsive.

Berluti reorg just happened not too long ago and Arnault Jr is probably still toying with the brand to find a better direction. Or not.

 

[nutcracker]



Nutcracker,

do you happen to know where Hayafuji-san's store is in Munich? As I will be there in about a month's time (hopefully not coinciding with his Japan trip), I might drop by.

Thanks

Herr Hayafuji is in Japan now, and his show will continue til 9/23 (Mon). I don`t have my address/mail with me right now, I`ll let you know once I return to Japan in Tuesday.

 

[bengal-stripe]



I find it interesting that Berluti is advertising Delos in Japan.

I don't know if Berluti is advertising M Delos in Japan, they certainly do not in Europe.

Last week Delos was in attendance to do fittings, take new orders etc. at the newly enlarged Berlutu Maison in London's Conduit Street. The event was not advertised at all. In previous years the store had a sign in the window that "our bespoke shoemaker Patrice Rock" would be in the store at a certain date and people were invited to make an appointment.

It is considered good practice in shoemaking that the person who attends the customer, takes the measurements etc. will also be making the last and sees the whole order through to completion. If Delos is able to have a creative input into the orders, I do not know. Hopefully a Delos designed/coordinated commission will avoid some of the garishness prevailing at Berluti at the moment.

 

[cgo]



Herr Hayafuji is in Japan now, and his show will continue til 9/23 (Mon). I don`t have my address/mail with me right now, I`ll let you know once I return to Japan in Tuesday.

Thanks!

I will be in Munich in mid oct so hopefully he is back then

 

[VegTan]

cgo,

Probably you can get in touch with him
https://www.facebook.com/ryota.hayafuji

 

[nutcracker]

A Visit to Emori Custom Shoemaker, Tokyo

Shoemaker Taizo Emori can make you a pair of bespoke shoes for ¥150K yen flat. Yes that costs less than most MTO shoes or even some high end RTW shoes. Yet make no mistake, these are not some watered down pseudo-bespoke shoes. By policy, Emori doesn't keep a collection of sample shoes, since all orders are made from scratch. Working alone from his atelier (that was converted from his late grandfather's medical clinic), he puts an incredible amount of effort into each pair (with an output of 3 pairs a month max). Aside from a few examples made years ago (posted below), I wasn't able to see much of completed works. Luckily, Emori-san's old (or should I say retro?) atelier was an absolute charm to be in (and to photograph), and he was a delight to converse with (he really is a funny guy).

I think the pictures came out great. Enjoy!

The atelier space was converted from a clinic of his grandfather, a family physician.

Entrance display

Salon interior

Trial shoes and lasts

Don't worry: the building survived the big earthquake from a couple of years ago.

Navy cordovan by Shinki Hikaku.

Shrunken baby calf in bordeaux.

In construction

Tools of the trade. Japanese natural whetstones.

Mr. Taizo Emori.

Emori Custom Shoemaker website
tel. fax 03-3771-6603
[email protected]

 

[nutcracker]

Emori Custom Shoemaker

Bespoke Captoe Oxfords in Navy Cordovan (Shinki Hikaku)

 

[JermynStreet]

Again, great work, NC. I have never seen cordovan shine like that. I wonder how different the process is from Horween. Also, do you know from where they source the hides? I thought horses were native to Eurasia only. The only reason we have them here in the States is because the Spanish brought them over. Is there a large horse population in Japan? I ask because I wonder if the species of horse hides they are using in Japan differ greatly from those here in the States and that is what is responsible for the difference in the sheen.