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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Very interesting leather. How well does it hold up and how does one care for it? Where can one source some? Thanks!
     
  2. jaythejet

    jaythejet Well-Known Member

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    Oh wow those shoes look awesome. At first glance they look like stingray leather shoes. Well done! :slayer:
     
  3. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    These came out quite nicely. How have they been wearing?
     
  4. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Very interesting, and they look lovely. I'd be interested to know how the leather holds up, though, as I wonder if the lacquering and the treatment would make it more prone to cracking when worn.
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    From what I understand, the lacquer isn`t `painted` over the leather per se, but rather soaked in / rubbed in multiple application into a piece of hand-boarded leather. The Kurozan leather retains the softness/pliability, while the soaked in lacquer resin provide durability (vs fading or scratching). The color apparently ages slowly and gracefully like a Japanese lacquerware. Until recently, they were most commonly used for Kendo fencing gears (and of course, for samurai armours before that). Now they are being used for a wide range of premium leather gears (bags, wallets, shoes). They cost a bit more than shell cordovan.

    Here is an interesting urushi lacquered Russian calf leather made by Sakamoto Shoten, the manufacturer of `kurozan leather`. Made by Three2four.

    [​IMG]
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    and the wallet that came out of it.
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    The interior is made of Horween`s whisky cordovan. Interesting.
    [​IMG]


    Link (shoemaker Zinryu`s blog)

    Sakamoto Shoten (from what I know, the only source of kurozan leather for shoes)
    http://himejikurozan.net
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2014
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ISETAN`s Winter Clearance Sale starts tomorrow 1/15! A healthy selection of mid~high end shoes are expected to be on sale at 30%.

    [​IMG]

    List of brands on sale (Japanese)
     
  7. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    Nutcracker, would you be so kind as to advise whether there have been additions to the list that you posted previously? I have Vass in mind, in particular.

    I am staying in Shinjuku, but foolishly lost track of the days and thought the sale was a few days away yet!

    So I shall be the Gaijin in the blue cable-knit sweater, do say hi if you spot me.
     
  8. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    3 people like this.
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The brand list (on the link) seems to be incomplete. I have been to the sale year after year, and there were always a good selection of high end brands such as JL, EG, Vass, CJ etc...(especially on the first few days). Aside from shoes (B1F floor), I always like to check for deals on (1F) shirts/knits, (5F) classic menswear. Ring Jacket is on 4F.

    The first few days are insanely packed, so Good luck!! and I sure will tap on your shoulder if I see you!!

    Btw, Spigola MTO Trunk Show will be held the next day on 1/16 (Thur) at United Arrows Roppongi, followed by Il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Trunk Show at WFG Kioicho Store (in New Otani Hotel) from 1/17.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  10. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    Thanks very much! I am excited and a little scared. Do I recall that people line up from the early hours of the morning? What time should I come, if I would actually like to get in?

    Edit: I had a good look at Spigola after your earlier post, thank you. I think that I could probably afford it now, but you mentioned that there was a price hike due which would probably put it beyond my range for the future, alas.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  11. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I've only worn them twice. I'll let you know in due course how the leather behaves in the mid- to longer term.

    Funny thing, I had a pair of llama shoes already: chukka boots by Silvano Sassetti for the last eight years or so. It a textured leather, but I didn't know what beast it came from.

    I'm pretty sure now, they are in llama leather.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The line is there only during the store opening, and yes, they are very very long by the time the store opens at 10:30. Fortunately it moves quite fast, and if I recall correctly, you should be able to enter the store in 5~10 minutes or so. Honestly I have no idea why people line up hours before the opening (supposed to snow tomorrow morning!).

    I highly recommend you to check out the Spigola shoes (whether you`ll order one or not). They definitely look better in person. I think Mr. Suzuki (Etsuo) will only show up on the weekend, and UA staffs are there to take orders instead.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    love these shoes and the punch mini-swan neck
     
    2 people like this.
  14. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    Thanks again! Check your PMs :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ISETAN MEN`S Winter Clearance Sale

    Plenty of sale-hungry men came to line up, despite being the coldest day of the year so far.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Hurray!

    [​IMG]
    B1F Shoes Section!

    [​IMG]

    The selection was good, but not spectacular IMO. EG were on sale from ¥94,000 and up (Dover priced at ¥115K). Vass shoes were all going for ¥60,000, Bemer RTW for ¥130K or so. C&J Handgrades (a decent selection) were priced at ¥63,000, and there were plenty of benchgrades too. Other sale brands that caught my eyes were Sanyo Yamacho, Meermin, Trickers, Paraboot, Santoni (regular/limited), BB (Peal & Co) Perfetto, Otsuka, Shetland Fox, Jalan Srivijaya. However, a lot of high end RTW brands were not on sale at all, including Foster & Son, Corthay, Anthony Cleverly, JM Weston, Alden.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  16. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Spigola MTO shoes just arrived at bespoke SUIT 110
    Photos from bespoke SUIT 110

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  17. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those are some really good stuffs!!! Also love the new shoe bags made from tweed(?)

    Tokyo Trunk show starts tomorrow!!!
     
  18. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    2 people like this.
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  20. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Everyone loves il Quadrifoglio.
    They really wants these shoes.

    This thread have a great deal of influence.
    NC,you are making a great contribution to bespoke shoes culture.
    Keep up the good work!
     
    2 people like this.

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