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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  2. jaythejet

    jaythejet Well-Known Member

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    Hey NC I've spent the past few days reading this entire thread and first off I have to say you are some sort of majestic wizard when it comes to knowledge of Japanese shoes and shoes in general. Great job not only giving us info but answering any and all questions brought forth by SFers regarding Japanese bespoke shoes.

    I have a question regarding the materials, mainly leather, used by the top Japanese bespoke brands (Il Quadrifoglio, Spigola, Guild, Marquess, Saion etc) vs the leather used by the top European brands (JLP, EG, Berluti, Cleverley, etc). I know the Japanese shoemakers blow the Europeans out of the water when it comes to standard of quality and attention to detail. But when it comes to the straight up materials used by each, is it the same quality because these Japanese shoemakers source their leathers from Europe? Thanks and keep up the good work!
     
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for your kind words! I just happen to have access to the goodies here in Tokyo, thats all!!

    Keep in mind that most shoe makers in Japan are tiny local businesses (mostly 1 or 2 man shops), so I wouldn`t compare them with what big European maisons with international clientele like JL Paris (Hermes), Berlutti (LVMH), F&S, Cleverly etc... are able to offer (especially when it comes to exotics).

    That being said, most of the shops I have visited to do have a decent selection of imported leather, some obviously better than another. Some of the top makers you mentioned do source directly from Europe (like Spigola, IQ and Marquess), while others source locally (where top grade European leather is indeed available but probably with higher cost). If they don`t have the leather you want in stock (for example, a vintage Carl Freudenberg calfskin, or a green Hippo hide), they should be able to specially source it for you.

    Among the Japanese makers that I have visited, Spigola has the most extensive selection.
     
  4. jaythejet

    jaythejet Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info! Also, I have a question regarding the Freudenberg calf. As a purist when it comes to leathers, I prefer calfskin over exotics (for now). What characteristics of Freudenberg calf makes it preferable than most other calf leathers?
     
  5. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    gorgeous. about $770ish?
     
  6. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  7. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks! more like $820ish. Yeah, these are bespoke samples from 8 yrs ago, but not a bad price considering that the retail for Guild bespokes starts from around ¥440K JPY ($4400 USD)
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The shoemakers that I`ve asked swear that the better specimens (but certainly not all) of old Freudenberg calfskins (in black and d.brown) have a grain thats finer than the current Weinheimer-made ones. Better ones are also increasingly hard to source. You may want to ask the question in the Leather Qualities thread for a better informed answer :)
     
  10. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Jelly
     
  11. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Ordered my first pair of bespoke from Marquess on Monday. Excited!
     
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  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    More detail might not go amiss!

    Did you meet-up with Shoji (in Japan, in Norway?) or do you want to pull this through as a long-distance order?
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Congrats! :fonz: I hope you had a great time visiting the Kawaguchi`s!

    I`m also curious how the trial may work out for you, unless you plan to visit Japan again in 6 months or so?
     
  14. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Thanks!

    I travel to Japan once or twice a year, and was in Fukuoka over New Years. Had some business in Tokyo and have wanted to try bespoke for a while. The Kawaguchi's were great, and very helpful. Shoji will send me the trial shoes in Norway, and I'll use them before visiting again in August.

    I ordered Oxford captoe in black with broguing over the toe and vamp. Want a pair of black shoes, but the Freudenberg samples he had were great (no black though), and might change to the Ebony or Almond. Have until the next fitting to decide!

    Was a very good experience, and look forward to see how they turn out.

    Order sheet attached:
    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Awesome! :slayer: Marquess`s trial shoes are complete with puffs, shanks, leather soles and heels. If you get the trials shoes in June, you should have 2 months to test out the trial shoes to figure out the fit, and any room for improvement!
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
  16. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Yes, it will be sad to have them cut open!
     
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  17. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Stefan88, what a wonderful design you asked for.
    Please keep us updated!
    Actually, what does the order sheet say for the heel? "no seams"?
     
  18. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Thank you. Will do!

    Yes, no seam on the heel. Saw an example of that on a shoe he was working on, and thought it looked great.
     
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  19. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Love the seamless heels on my pair of Vass, definitely a very aesthetic detail!
     
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  20. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My contribution to the mini llama craze:

    llama leather sourced (dirt-cheap) from a remnants seller on German eBay.
    Turned into an 'Austerity Brogue', designed by yours truly and produced by some of the fine out-workers working in the UK

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.

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