Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :lol:
    Yeah, Bella Vita is full of window shoppers. She said they're doing well, especially from 'young' customers in their 30's with growing taste for finer things.

    Last time I was there, I saw 2 Japanese men buying 2 pairs of shoes each (I say Taiwan JL is 15% cheaper than Japan). I hope they knew that JL shoes in Taiwan has a default EE width (wide fit). I believe JL shoes sold in Japan are standard E width.
    Knowing some Japanese prefer tighter fits, I hope they won't be disappointed later. :facepalm:
     


  2. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Interesting, I thought there are more Asian with wider foot, especially around the toe. I personally would prefer all manufacture offer wider width (guess it doesn't help that one of my left foot is shorter and wider, while the right foot is longer and slimmer :satisfied: )

    My dad know a guy who used to retail for Testoni in Taiwan before Testoni decide to have their own presence. He had to show Testoni his own feet to convince the Italian to come up with either a different last or offering more width. That was more than 10 years ago.
     


  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've asked a Japanese shoemaker about this. I told him, 'Asians have fat, wide feet.' but he thinks its more a matter of length than width. He considers asians to have generally 'shorter' feet than caucasians, hence proportion-wise, its naturally stockier. I guess he means asians with longer feet will naturally be narrower, and not massively wide?

    Yet Even among similar height asians, i think japanese feet are a bit slimmer than folks in taiwan. Thats from my observations. Perhaps its more lifestyle and environmental factors than genetics, not sure
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013


  4. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    I prefer the lighter colored llama plain toe derby as the toe (seems slightly square; usually hate soft square models but this one seems to have been nailed) and toe box as a whole looks supremely balanced; while the darker plain toe the chisel is too prevalent and in my opinion chisel toes do much worse on derbies then oxfords.
     


  5. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Which ones make the best RTW?
     


  6. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    Love what I have seen from Saion,, maybe I should get a MTO pair.

    Good thread
     


  7. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    The boots look like the ones Materna has on display in their shop, did he apprentice with them?
     


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice to see a forum vet on the thread

    Here's some articles I translated on Saion, if you or anyone else may be interested.
    also check out the full catalogue I posted here:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes
     


  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Check out this thread for reference.

    Within the same price range, I say there's little difference between RTW brands in terms of fit and finish. I suppose it comes down to how they look on you, and how they fit you. I like Miyagi Kogyo and Central Shoes, both priced in the ¥50K~¥60K range. They look good and fit me very well.

    There are Japanese RTW shoes priced over ¥100K. but for that price, you have an option to go for handmade MTO shoes from a number of Bespoke makers like Spigola
     


  11. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I have seen some via the Armory, It does look pretty good to my eye.
     


  12. cgo

    cgo Senior member

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    anyone can indicate how much would a Spigola MTO cost?
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SPIGOLA prêt-à- porter (MTO) starts from ¥108,000 JPY. One piece Plain toes ¥129,000 JPY. Full brogues ¥135,000 JPY. In today's exchange, that will be $1090, $1300, and $1365 USD respectively.


    fyi, for those who are in Tokyo right now, Spigola is having a bespoke show at United Arrows Harajuku over this weekend.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013


  14. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Great thread Nutcracker, ta much. Suzuki's shoes are out of this world good to look at. Any comment on Spigola construction or materials? Hand lasted? hand welted? thx
     


  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :fonz:

    They are hand lasted and handsewn welted. The soles are machine stitched. I was told that Mr. Koji Suzuki has his hands on all of the shoes.

    The selection of grained/textured/shrink leather is the best I've seen from any Japanese bespoke maker.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013


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