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Japanese Denim: Kiton, Borrelli etc. Jeans and the colors?

Soph

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Apparently the big houses are using Japanese Denim. I personal don't care for the Nudies, fashiony, kid, and highschool looking jeans. I don't wear skull caps (rarely), hoodies, etc. nothing wrong with that of course. So I may have interest in more classically designed jeans. Currently, I still hold to AG's with the narrower 15-16 opening as they can blend with sportcoats fine and they don't have anythingtoo crazy about them.

1. So is Japanese denim all its hyped up to be?
2. What are your thoughts on the jeans from these companies relative to
more classic menswear?
3. Lastly, what color would you consider besides blue, I've noticed alot of the makers are producing various colors, but I'm not so sure about grape jeans or pastels?
smile.gif

4. I think I'll be trying a pair soon enough

AskMen.com article on Japanese Denim:
Japanese culture is famous for its attention to detail, and jeans are no exception. Japanese denim has a cult following in Europe and America because of its amazing look and feel. It’s different because it uses traditional production techniques that have long been abandoned elsewhere. Though far more labor-intensive -- and expensive -- the jeans produced this way have a feel and appearance that is second to none.

Evisu was one of the first Japanese denim labels to become famous outside of Japan in the early ‘90s. The brand’s founder, Hidehiko Yamane, was a self-confessed “jeans otaku” and bought vintage Levi’s looms to produce his artisanal denim. Other brands use similar production methods to achieve a cloth that is stiffer, denser and yet far more comfortable than the mass-produced denim used overseas.

One of the most distinctive characteristics of classic Japanese jeans is their “selvage edge,” meaning that the fabric edges have a woven finish rather than being cut and overlocked like ordinary jeans. The selvage can be seen on the outer leg seam when cuffs are rolled up -- a detail that will be noticed by denim connoisseurs and is a sign of the fabric’s superior quality. Another factor in this quality is the dye used for Japanese denim: natural rather than synthetic indigo, with yarn dipped up to 30 times to produce an incredibly deep and rich color that weathers with time.

The reputation of Japanese denim has traveled quickly, and several overseas brands have adopted it for their collections. Cult Swedish brand Nudie uses Japanese denim for all its lines, and Diesel uses it for some of its premium jeans in response to demand for heavy, dense denim from shoppers. Paul Smith’s Red Ear label uses Japanese denim and also styling details and stitching inspired by Japanese streetwear.

Like their manufacturers, Japanese consumers are also sticklers for detail, and the jeans worn on the streets of Tokyo reflect this. This season, three main trends are emerging in men's denim: skinny cut, embellishment and distressed wash. The skinny cut can be seen all over the city, usually in a dark wash and worn long enough to bunch around the ankles. Favored styles include 45rpm’s Sorehiko and Studio d’Artisan’s SD-103XX.

Embellishment takes many forms, from embroidery to chains and elaborate stitching. Evisu jeans are famous for their seagull mark across the back, which constantly morphs into new colors and sizes. This year, pocket-sized squiggles are the most popular, combined with colored tabs and studs. Dark wash has been popular for several seasons, but it is now being challenged by faded, distressed denim which can be seen everywhere on the streets of Shibuya, Tokyo’s youth center. From United Arrows, Eyefunny jeans are streaked with artfully applied paint and grime for a truly lived-in look right from the start. Edwin also provides a take on the look with frayed edges and fading through the legs.

In other cities jeans are seen as a fashion fallback that can be pulled on without thinking, but Tokyo’s trendsetters see denim as a matter for careful consideration, and they are willing to pay more for the perfect pair. And so, it seems, are a growing number of international denim fanatics who feed their habit through overseas stockists and eBay, and who swear that once you’ve tried Japanese denim you can never, ever go back.
 

Stazy

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3. Lastly, what color would you consider besides blue, I've noticed alot of the makers are producing various colors, but I'm not so sure about grape jeans or pastels?

I only wear jeans that are indigo or black. Other colors stand out too much in my opinion. Some people might be able to pull it off, I can't.
 

drake

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Jeans from Borelli, Kiton, etc... all look and fit like ****.
 

itsstillmatt

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Kiton and Borrelli jeans suck IMO.

I am pretty much like you when it comes to jeans. I want something that looks good but is low hassle. I go to Diesel. They are easy and my wife thinks that ****** looks good in them. I can't really ask for more than that.

I don't really get the idea of jeans that don't look good on your body and the coolness factor that people think that they have. Oh well.
 

UMass

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Why don't you just go to the source with Japanese brands. Samurai, Studio D'Artisan, Skull, Flathead, Sugar Cane, Eternal are some of Japanese denium brands.

Blue actually vary by manufacture-my raw StudioD'Artisans,Flatheads, and Samurais. Skull jeans also produces some fantastic black jeans.
pa050009su1.jpg
 

Soph

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I've seen someone with Brioni jeans and they seemed quite 'cool'

I used to have Diesel jeans, but found PnDenim and AG's have a more refined look about them, and AG has very soft, comfortable materila.

Alot of the hyped jeans to me look like high school kid's jeans. Looking at the Nudie site, I would never dress like any of those guys.

Definitly not business exec. on the weekend wear.
 

Soph

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Borrelli Jeans
34ewxzk.jpg
29uokz8.jpg

Now if I was going skateboarding or pizza at the mall with my boysss, or a frat party; or I played in a college band:
Nudie's
2ufcdo5.jpg


Now back to Borrelli Jeans at top:
They do have the proportions relative to the jackets.
I don't see how these look bad or as hated as people say.
They look fairly classic to me.
 

itsstillmatt

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Originally Posted by Soph
Borrelli Jeans
34ewxzk.jpg
29uokz8.jpg

Now if I was going skateboarding or pizza at the mall with my boysss, or a frat party; or I played in a college band:
Nudie's
2ufcdo5.jpg


Now back to Borrelli Jeans at top:
They do have the proportions relative to the jackets.
I don't see how these look bad or as hated as people say.
They look fairly classic to me.

I agree that they look good in that picture. They were not my cup of tea when I tried them on, but maybe some pairs are better than others. If you have good experiences with them, let me know and I will rethink.
 

horton

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I have Brioni jeans that I bought from NM. I bought them because of the way they looked and felt -- extremely comfortable (pajama like) yet reltively trim.

I am sure the denim afficianados laugh at me because the pants contain polyster and elastaine (the horror) and are probably in their opinion way overpriced? I however think of them as perhaps my favorite pants purchase. For warmer weather I have a pair of Zegna jeans that contain denim and linen and also probably are the subject of much derision by the experts, but I like them a ton.

IMO they were both a perfect fit for my needs and age (young 40s)
 

Dragon

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Besides the standard colors for jeans, I would buy any color that I wear as odd trousers (browns, whites, burgundy, orange, etc. etc.).

When wearing with a sports jacket, I think it is best to try to find jeans that have a silouette similar to your odd trousers. Maybe Borrelli, Kiton, etc. are a good choice for jeans especially since you wear all the Neapolitan stuff.

My very casual warbrobe is my weak area, so I am looking into getting some more jeans lately. One brand that I`ve been looking at (and suprised to notice that no one has mentioned on these boards) is Jacob Cohen. They also use J-denim and make trousers with handwork (like Incotex, etc.). The concept is tailored jeans (RTW) that you can wear with your sports jackets.
 

Englandmj7

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Not all Nudies, etc. are as wild as the ones you posted.

As far as Kiton, Borrelli, Zegna etc. jeans: most of the ones I have seen from the likes of top designers have been tapered with a very high waist and in generally unflattering cuts, although I would take those any day over wide-opening bootcuts (anything above 10" looks horrible with boots/oxfords imo).
 

Soph

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Originally Posted by Dragon
Besides the standard colors for jeans, I would buy any color that I wear as odd trousers (browns, whites, burgundy, orange, etc. etc.).

When wearing with a sports jacket, I think it is best to try to find jeans that have a silouette similar to your odd trousers. Maybe Borrelli, Kiton, etc. are a good choice for jeans especially since you wear all the Neapolitan stuff.

My very casual warbrobe is my weak area, so I am looking into getting some more jeans lately. One brand that I`ve been looking at (and suprised to notice that no one has mentioned on these boards) is Jacob Cohen. They also use J-denim and make trousers with handwork (like Incotex, etc.). The concept is tailored jeans (RTW) that you can wear with your sports jackets.


Fit and Cut:
I'm with you. Jean cut is important if you are wearing Neapolitan jackets with them. I learned this, this summer when everyone raved about the jackets but hated my jeans too wide boot cuts look horrid with neapoitan jackets.

Colors:
I'm with you again. I just purchased a Dark Brown pair of Borrelli jeans. I'll take some pictures once I get them fitted and we can rave or hate on them then.
 

itsstillmatt

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Jeckerson makes a very nice jean in a lot of different colors that is very popular in Italy and easy to wear with sportcoats.

Not for the denim afficianado.
 

maomao1980

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If you want high-end Italian jeans made with Japanese denim, buy yourself some SBUs. You wouldn't buy shoes from a non-shoe company, so don't buy designer jeans. SBU specializes in jeans and have a few different cuts available, the one pair I have is made with Japanese denim and is the high end model. The denim is very soft and the wash is conservative. The cut is on the wide side but they do not look loose with the right top and shoes. Prices range from 200 to 400, which I think is cheaper than The Neapolitan brands that's quoted here, at least retail to retail. I'll post some pics later on when I get home after work.
 

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