Japanese Boot / Shoe Appreciation Thread (White Cloud, Rolling Dub Trio, John Lofgren, Clinch, etc.

[Patek]

I realize that many of the Japanese boot and shoe makers are so small that they may not get as much attention or their own thread for each brand. Searching on this forum, you can find hits on these buried in other threads but I have been unable to find a lot of information on various makers, models available, reviews, and boot Appreciation. I know there are a lot of Japanese sneakers and dress shoe manufacturers out there so feel free to post those too.

I am fascinated by the attention to detail and the construction of these boutique shoe makers in Japan and I would love to see what you have especially with some wear and patina. I don't own any yet or I would start out but I do have a pair of the John Lofgren Dark Olive boots in the mail so I will post when they arrive. If they fit well, I may also get the M-43 boots but I need to figure out their strange sizing first. I'm also eyeing some Rolling Dub Trio boots but we will see on those. Until then, please post away and discuss.

If this thread was already created, please direct me to it as I cannot find one.

 

[Hellanormcore]

Love Rolling Dub Trios. Had always eyed their Coupen mid cut boots but the Gleaner boots they released for 2019 s/s probably is becoming a new favorite. There's also a pair of Shepherd plain toe shoes and Casper side zips I've been eyeing in Y!Jp for quite some time now but never could justify. Also they recently released a couple of models made with Guidi leather earlier this year.

Only one I ever handled was their Christopher derbies purchased via Masuya while on sale, which unfortunately I had to let go since they were massive. The build looked great though, really solid looking shoes. Some people dislike their cork outsoles but I personally don't mind them as much.

Also PSA, there's a random pair of Clinch boots on Grailed if anyone's looking for a particularly round toe boots. Not mine, but thought that was pretty interesting to see.

 

[Mghart]

I have a pair of White Klouds coming hopefully in the next month or so, but with Covid, theres been a little delay. Looking forward to them and hopefully it'll be safe by the end of the year so I can place another order with Goto-san in Japan.

I've owned a pair of Clinch boots but their sizing was hard to figure out with their lasts even ordering in person in Japan. Not sure if I'd give it another go at some point as their pricing is quite for high custom orders.

@Patek I can't speak to the Lofgren combat boots, but I did own the M43s for a short period. The instep is very high and if you have a low instep you may need an insole to fill the space. Sizing with Lofgren seems to be inconsistent with some lasts being half down, some full. I'd still love to get a pair of Donkey Punchers and an Engineer from him at some point though.

 

[mmmargeologist]

Excellent thread idea

 

[Patek]

I have a pair of White Klouds coming hopefully in the next month or so, but with Covid, theres been a little delay. Looking forward to them and hopefully it'll be safe by the end of the year so I can place another order with Goto-san in Japan.

I've owned a pair of Clinch boots but their sizing was hard to figure out with their lasts even ordering in person in Japan. Not sure if I'd give it another go at some point as their pricing is quite for high custom orders.

@Patek I can't speak to the Lofgren combat boots, but I did own the M43s for a short period. The instep is very high and if you have a low instep you may need an insole to fill the space. Sizing with Lofgren seems to be inconsistent with some lasts being half down, some full. I'd still love to get a pair of Donkey Punchers and an Engineer from him at some point though.

Lucky you with the White Klouds. Please post pics when you get them. What model did you get and options so we can get excited/jealous?

On Lofgren, yes their sizing seems to be all over the place with the Donkey Punchers the closest to actual size. Not sure why these obsessive attention to detail makers can't figure out sizes. I really wanted some Donkey Punchers in Dark Olive with Contrast stitching (tan and maybe one line of rust) but I have been communicating with John and he answers some emails/facbook posts and then doesn't answer others. So, I ordered the combat boots in that color as they were available locally (although at a higher price) and I was curious about fit. They are on the same last as the M43s so it will also give me some insight into how that will fit.

I would like to get some more feedback on your issues with the M43s, was there just no arch support?

 

[Patek]

Excellent thread idea

Their sizing seems to be all over the place and they are expensive/hard to get on this side of the pond but I find that it is hard to come across info about them except some Reddit posts which are usually stylized photos. I figured we needed one place to discuss and go to for info.

I made the thread last night and I realize today that I misspelled "White Kloud" I'll blame auto correct.

 

[Mghart]

Did you go a full size down for the combat boots? When I had the M43s, I went down half a size, but my foot is low volume so it never really felt too secure. I maybe should have tried going down a full size, but I feared it might have been too tight. I should have tried an insole, but I was kind of over it at that point that I just sold them off. I’ll try again at some point with the Donkey Punchers though as it’s probably my favorite LTT design.

As far as the White Klouds go, I went with his Blucher 87 model in Cognac Badalassi leather. Sort of a standard make up for him, but it was the first boots I saw from him that caught my eye so I wanted those.

For my second pair I may try a double mid sole with half sole, but not sure of what leather yet.

 

[Patek]

Did you go a full size down for the combat boots? When I had the M43s, I went down half a size, but my foot is low volume so it never really felt too secure. I maybe should have tried going down a full size, but I feared it might have been too tight. I should have tried an insole, but I was kind of over it at that point that I just sold them off. I’ll try again at some point with the Donkey Punchers though as it’s probably my favorite LTT design.

As far as the White Klouds go, I went with his Blucher 87 model in Cognac Badalassi leather. Sort of a standard make up for him, but it was the first boots I saw from him that caught my eye so I wanted those.
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For my second pair I may try a double mid sole with half sole, but not sure of what leather yet.

Wow, those are sharp. His stitching always gets me. You can just frame those in your living room.

I usually wear 12 in running shoes, 11.5 in Alden, Whites, or dress shoes. Standard & Strange had them in 11 so that is what I ordered. They sell them for $70 over what Lofgren sells them for but the ability to return them (even though they charge you a $25 fee if you want a refund vs. an exchange.) However, I'm sure it is easier than trying to return something to Japan if they even take returns.

 

[Mghart]

I’ll be interested to hear your thoughts on full size down fit then as my Alden’s and whites are typically fine a half size down. A friend of mine has the combat boots but went TTS as he has wider feet and he said they worked out great for him, but his sizing is a bit all over heh.

 

[Vickt]

I have the Lofgren engineers in both natural and black CXL. By far my favorite footwear. I have a bunch of Viberg but pretty much only reach for the derbies now if I’m not wearing Lofgren. My naturals are actually a half size smaller than the black, but I wear one with light socks and the other with super thick boot socks and they both work.

 

[Patek]

I have the Lofgren engineers in both natural and black CXL. By far my favorite footwear. I have a bunch of Viberg but pretty much only reach for the derbies now if I’m not wearing Lofgren. My naturals are actually a half size smaller than the black, but I wear one with light socks and the other with super thick boot socks and they both work.

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Those naturals are beautiful but I can't believe you wear them that much, where is the patina? Beat those bad boys up!

By the way, what size openings are your jeans? I seem to be having a fit issue with US made engineers as the shaft is very wide. The Japnese makers seem to make a narrower shaft and your jeans look to fit well over them.

 

[Mghart]

I really like the Lofgren engineers quite a bit. I hope they offer them again at some point in another leather other than cxl as I've owned too many cxl boots at this point in my collecting.

I had a pair of Attractions in horsebutt earlier in the year, but the last was a little too narrow for my liking, but the leather was beautiful.

 

[Vickt]

Those naturals are beautiful but I can't believe you wear them that much, where is the patina? Beat those bad boys up!

By the way, what size openings are your jeans? I seem to be having a fit issue with US made engineers as the shaft is very wide. The Japnese makers seem to make a narrower shaft and your jeans look to fit well over them.

Haha, they’re only a month old, and the first picture is after one wear. The smallest opening I can fit under is about 7.5”, and that’s if I know they’re not coming off for awhile... It’s way easier and more comfortable for me to have around an 8” opening.

Here’s a pic literally just now... getting darker, although I like them lighter and definitely won’t speed anything along with conditioner or anything.

 

[Patek]

Haha, they’re only a month old, and the first picture is after one wear. The smallest opening I can fit under is about 7.5”, and that’s if I know they’re not coming off for awhile... It’s way easier and more comfortable for me to have around an 8” opening.

Here’s a pic literally just now... getting darker, although I like them lighter and definitely won’t speed anything along with conditioner or anything.

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Good to know, so it sounds like they are about the same as the US engineer boots although (at least in pictures) it appears that they don't flare out as much at the top. Maybe I'll have to buy a pair to verify.

What are your conditioning plans? I usually use Saphir Reno on all my shoes but I think it can darken a bit. I have started using Bick 4 on my naturals as they specifically claim that it won't darken but only time will tell.

 

[Vickt]

I’m probably going to just try and spot treat dry areas with Venetian shoe cream. Other than that, just regularly wiping them down and brushing.