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Japanese Boot / Shoe Appreciation Thread (White Cloud, Rolling Dub Trio, John Lofgren, Clinch, etc.

Patek

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ajd578

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I am not an expert in leather and shoe making but I have seen the leather at a local leather supply so I know what horsebutt looks like. Yes, you can tell by the texture or the shape but the easiest way is always to feel the leather in person. Horsebutt feels more like shell cordovan while horsefronts have a softer hand like the typical horween fqhh on an hh jacket. The difference on the rough side is also obvious. The rough side is less nappy down in the butt. Re grain, can you see similarities in john's leather and the horsebutt leather on these boots?

View attachment 1390440View attachment 1390439View attachment 1390441


Grain on 1.3 mm shinki pigment finished horsefront look like this

View attachment 1390438

Horse (butt) strips are sold by horween as a by product of shell cordovan. The mustache shaped remnants in the video are horse strips

Horween horse strips are often too narrow for shoe uppers, so its more often used for small leather crafts or welting. In japan or anywhere else outside of NA, horse strips are not sold seapartely. If you want horse strips in japan, you will need to buy a full horsebutt hide like this
View attachment 1390442

Horse butt and horse rump are the same thing afaik. The italian tanneries call it horse rump and the japanese call it horsebutt. Horween cuts the horsebutt into different sub sections (stripes and cordovan) and finishes them differently for sale
Oh interesting. I knew about the texture differences, but I didn't realize that most tanneries didn't sell the strip separately from the rest of the butt. Thanks!

Btw, I'm interested in buying some 'whole butt'. Know where I can get some without having to make a big order? Only thing I've found is Horween strips (which I had made into some camp mocs by Rancourt).
 

Patek

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Vickt

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I’m an 11 in Viberg 1035 and 2040 with a bit of room in light cushion socks. The 2050 is decent in 11, but pretty tight around the toes. I basically have to wear athletic socks with my chelseas.

I have Lofgren engineers in both 11.5 and 11. The 11.5 fits with darn tough boot cushion wool socks, and the 11 works with light cushion, though a tad snug.
 

Patek

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I’m an 11 in Viberg 1035 and 2040 with a bit of room in light cushion socks. The 2050 is decent in 11, but pretty tight around the toes. I basically have to wear athletic socks with my chelseas.

I have Lofgren engineers in both 11.5 and 11. The 11.5 fits with darn tough boot cushion wool socks, and the 11 works with light cushion, though a tad snug.
That is good input. I bought my first Viberg service boots this year (1035 I believe) in 11.5 and they fit a bit loose and I probably should have gone with the 11s so maybe I should go with 11s.

Do you have any Lofgren combat or service boots?
 

Vickt

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No other Lofgrens, sorry. I’m betting S&S will recommend an 11.5. The 11’s are very snug, and if an 11.5 Viberg 1035 is only a little loose then you might need to go 11.5 Engineer.

Also, didn’t you say your combats are pretty snug with a toe hitting the front? I thought engineers are 1/2 size up from combats.
 

Valfunde

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Damn these look great. Anyone else doing this type of loafer with CXL? Could gamble with Moto's sizing but there's no way I can deal with a flip flopping loafer if I missize.
So, uh, I'm pulling the trigger on the MOTO loafer's in size 1 and got quoted for about $60 in shipping. Ouch. This typical from Japan for shoes? Most I've paid for shipping for goods from Japan was like $50 but that was a pretty big box.
 
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Patek

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No other Lofgrens, sorry. I’m betting S&S will recommend an 11.5. The 11’s are very snug, and if an 11.5 Viberg 1035 is only a little loose then you might need to go 11.5 Engineer.

Also, didn’t you say your combats are pretty snug with a toe hitting the front? I thought engineers are 1/2 size up from combats.
Yeah, my left toe barely grazes the front the first time I wore them. I wore them again today and my toes did not touch the front on either side so it could have to do with how tight I laced them. Definitely a tight fit but not uncomfortably tight, actually quite comfortable and no hot spots or rubbing.

Anyway, I just received the quote. They will be about $300 over the regular engineer pricing. I think it's worth it for something one off and unique. This is getting into Clinch and Role Club territory though. Thoughts?
 
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Mghart

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So, uh, I'm pulling the trigger on the MOTO loafer's in size 1 and got quoted for about $60 in shipping. Ouch. This typical from Japan for shoes? Most I've paid for shipping for goods from Japan was like $50 but that was a pretty big box.
Yes thats completely normal. Granted, I think EMS is still not shipping to the US(not sure if thats where you're located), so if they're using DHL or FedEx thats a good deal imo. When I got my engineers from Attractions it was about $60 if I recall, and even when I buy clothes from my favorite clothing shop its about $40-50 depending on weight but thats express mail.
 

Vickt

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Yeah, my left toe barely grazes the front the first time I wore them. I wore them again today and my toes did not touch the front on either side so it could have to do with how tight I laced them. Definitely a tight fit but not uncomfortably tight, actually quite comfortable and no hot spots or rubbing.

Anyway, I just received the quote. They will be about $300 over the regular engineer pricing. I think it's worth it for something one off and unique. This is getting into Clinch and Role Club territory though. Thoughts?
The devil’s causeways were $1200 so it’s about right for a horsehide engineer unless you meant $300 above that. His engineers are my favorite footwear. I personally think it’s worth it.
 

Patek

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The devil’s causeways were $1200 so it’s about right for a horsehide engineer unless you meant $300 above that. His engineers are my favorite footwear. I personally think it’s worth it.
Yes, $1,200 plus shipping is the price. He is only making two pairs, one for me and one for himself. These seem to be a shade or two darker than the Devil's Causeway boots. They will be ready in August which is my 40th birthday so I can sort of justify it as a birthday gift to myself (along with my Himel Bros jacket).
 

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