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Japanese Boot / Shoe Appreciation Thread (White Cloud, Rolling Dub Trio, John Lofgren, Clinch, etc.

StrangeJeremy

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@StrangeJeremy While those boots aren’t exactly for me, now that you guys are stocking black sign any chance of carrying their regular footwear offerings? Their military boots and service shoes have always looked rather nice, but very little info on them from what I’ve tried to look up.
We are looking into it - we need to try them on ourselves. This might be a "wait until we can get back to Japan" situation.
 

peachfuzzmcgee

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They are pretty nice! Didn't have anything in my size so I couldn't try em on but I can test that some of them are pretty wicked. The nile croc engineers are also really damn pimp.
 

Zouk

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I agree with everything you said about Clinch - but I did have a comment on the sizing. This is my experience with their lasts:

CN - This is the basis of most of the lasts at Clinch. Length - Mine are true to Brannock length, so 9.5 US Brannock is 10H (or 10 and a Half) in the CN. Width - no greater than a C or if your are like me and fall between a C and D measured on a Brannock at the ball width, it is the max I think anyone should go. I have a low instep, so boots, like the George Boot, fit without room above my instep. If a 2030 is a little roomy in width and height, the the CN might fit. The CN has room in the waist, a higher arch (which is great if you have flat feet) and curves inward at the ball so it narrows just before the little toe at the center of the outside ball. The reason I mention the inward curve at the outside ball of the foot is as I go through the CN-S and CN Wide, I find they all have the same fit for me at that point.

CN-S - I thought this was just a soft toe but I have 2 boots in this last and their width is between the CN and CN Wide. I have yet to figure this out. Length - same as the CN, true to Brannock. Width - I went a 1/2 size down on the first order I ever placed and these fit in width but I am just about to the end of the boot with my toes at the end of the day. I found these slightly wider in the waist as the CN but the width of the ball is the same as the CN, so I would stay with the same fit guidelines as the CN.

CN-Wide - I only have this in the Engineering Boots. Length - stay true to your Brannock. These are wide in the heel, instep and waist (seems like a fit for an E width and high instep). They narrow at the ball, so over time the boot can settle (i.e., top compresses down) and this can get a little more room. I don't know that I would recommend an E width in your Brannock length unless you are willing go through the break-in in the area of the front ball. I am between a C and D and the CN-Wide and CN both fit the width of the ball of my foot the same. I went a 1/2 size down and used a boot stretcher for the left boot to get my toe some more room. Over time it would have molded to my foot but I have no patience and wanted to get this fitting ASAP.

MT - Used in the trainers. Brannock length should be used. Width - these are narrow from waist to toe. No wider than a C width (can fit between a C/D on Brannock but this is really snug). Compared to the CN, these have a lower arch. They feel really flat for me, like the old Converse court sneakers and wrap my foot similar to boxing shoes. I have trainers in leather and after break-in, I like the fit. Like a wrap-around monkey boot.

RS - Used in the Service shoes. Brannock length should be used. If the CN fits, the RS will fit. The difference is a D width should work in this last. The RS fits similar to the Viberg 1004. There is a lot of curve and a high arch in this last. The waist is similar to the CN but when used in a shoe, I can adjust the lacing for a slightly wider fit. This does require break-in for my feet because of the curve from heel to toe and high arch. If it feels comfortable at first, it's a good fit. But at the end of the day my shins feel it. Same as the 1004 break-in. Best description is an orthopedic type last. If you have flat narrow feet, the is a good last.

This is my experience, so don't take it as how these fit for everyone. I've not gone to Brass to get their input on the differences in the lasts and fit. For reference, Onderhoud EU43, Ostmo Moe EU 43.5, Viberg 2030 8.5 - these are all comfortable but roomy for me. Joe Works 6 and 0 lasts in 8 and the Lofgren 140 last in 8.5 are snug fits. 10H with Clinch is spot on for me with all their lasts. If you expect a level of build quality in their price range to be similar to other companies in Japan, it's not. There is a lot of weird stuff and if you take a close look, you will find imperfections. But the way these age, look and feel after a few months, I loose sight of these problems.

DaveB
Hey Dave.

Really great info on the sizing of the Clinch lasts.
I am looking for a Latigo Yeager Boots and are would like to ask you if you think my foot could/could not fit on the shoes.

Completely flat foot, Brannock US11D (D width while measured standing up), and above average midfoot volume (I think).
Since the CN-S last comes with a little arch support, the splaying due to the flat foot may be reduced? What do you think?
Would the CN-S US11 (Clinch 12) be a good fit?
 

NautOfEarth

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Been thinking about having my Attractions Lot 444 engineers relasted. While I do love them, I'm just not a fan of round toe boots and would love to have them squared. Looking at pictures of Zerrow's custom options, I'm thinking of going with this shape:

zerrowssquaretoe.jpg

squaretoe-2-1.jpg

What do you guys think? Any other boot makers I should look at for this?
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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Been thinking about having my Attractions Lot 444 engineers relasted. While I do love them, I'm just not a fan of round toe boots and would love to have them squared. Looking at pictures of Zerrow's custom options, I'm thinking of going with this shape:

View attachment 1679491

View attachment 1679493

What do you guys think? Any other boot makers I should look at for this?
There's not a lot of cobblers who do relasting. If you're down to cough up the 400-500$ and long wait times Role Club, Brass, and Dr. Sole are the only cobblers I have seen relast engineers. I'm sure Bedo's could too. Whether or not they have square toed lasts that you'd like is another story though, you would have to contact them and find out.

It may make more sense to get yourself a pair of the Zerrow's honestly.
 

somedudeorother

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I wanna buy a pair of bots from either Motor Leather or Rolling Dub Trio but with the new regulations in Europe it's getting harder and harder so I thought I should ask this: Having one of the world capitals of shoe artisanry in the world such as Florence supposedly is, could someone find a place there where they do these more american workwear, rustic, wabi sabi type of aesthetic instead of the old (and boring) sleek italian shoe? And if not, would you be confident in trusting one of the many japanese shoemakers in Florence to do the right job? (I mean would it be that hard for them to get some leather at Badalassi Carlo and do a pair of workwear boots?)

(I'm european and visiting florence in a couple of weeks, hence the interest)
 

whorishconsumer

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Got my Casper from Japan. So far, very happy with the fit as they’re not too small. I’m 10.5 C on Brannock and the RDT 8.5 / 26.5 are a good fit for me.
Converting sizes between us is all but useless, but since I also have a narrow(er) foot, how much extra length are you getting in the toe box?
 

Gonzogonzo

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Has anybody purchased the Lofgren Chelsea? How do they fit? I wear a 9.5 (10.5 in vans/nikes) in the engineer boots and they are quite snug. I think I would have sized up if I had bought them new. Should I size up in the chelsea? I heard some boots are bigger than others...
 

Tweedboy

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Been thinking about having my Attractions Lot 444 engineers relasted. While I do love them, I'm just not a fan of round toe boots and would love to have them squared. Looking at pictures of Zerrow's custom options, I'm thinking of going with this shape:

View attachment 1679491

View attachment 1679493

What do you guys think? Any other boot makers I should look at for this?
I love those. Engineer Boots just don’t work for me. I got a pair of their chukkas recently though and I was very impressed
 

Gonzogonzo

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Been thinking about having my Attractions Lot 444 engineers relasted. While I do love them, I'm just not a fan of round toe boots and would love to have them squared. Looking at pictures of Zerrow's custom options, I'm thinking of going with this shape:

What do you guys think? Any other boot makers I should look at for this?
I don't know about other boots but I just bought a pair of Lofgren M-43 boots off this guy. In addition to selling Lofgrens, he also makes and sells shoes.
 

somedudeorother

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I wanna buy a pair of bots from either Motor Leather or Rolling Dub Trio but with the new regulations in Europe it's getting harder and harder so I thought I should ask this: Having one of the world capitals of shoe artisanry in the world such as Florence supposedly is, could someone find a place there where they do these more american workwear, rustic, wabi sabi type of aesthetic instead of the old (and boring) sleek italian shoe? And if not, would you be confident in trusting one of the many japanese shoemakers in Florence to do the right job? (I mean would it be that hard for them to get some leather at Badalassi Carlo and do a pair of workwear boots?)

(I'm european and visiting florence in a couple of weeks, hence the interest)
In brief: any shoemakers in Florence/Europe that can make a good pair of American workwear inspired boots? Can't believe no florentine shoemaker is capitalising on this opportunity, having tanneries like badalassi carlo right there...
 

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