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janzten fit question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by raley, Dec 7, 2004.

  1. raley

    raley Senior member

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    This is my first Janzten shirt. Â I have been meaning to get around to posting a pic, but here it is. Â I would have kept my face in but I ended up looking really scruffy in the pic, maybe next time [​IMG] Here are my measurements: Shirt length - 29 1/2" Chest - 36 3/4" Waist - 31" Hips - 34" Neck - 16" Shoulder - 17 1/2" Sleeves - 36 1/2" Any suggestions on what to change? Â I have gained about 5 lbs since I got to college, so this shirt is a bit tight, and I think I did the hips wrong. Â I will probably have to increase the chest for sure on the next one and order a regular fit vs. form fit. Thanks a lot. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  2. scnupe7

    scnupe7 Senior member

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    The shirt seems a little short also. Don't know how tall you are, but I have always heard that standard shirt length for a person around six feet is 33 inches.
     


  3. scnupe7

    scnupe7 Senior member

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    Is it just me, or are the shoulder a tad bit too narrow?
     


  4. Bergdorf Goodwill

    Bergdorf Goodwill Senior member

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    If you intend to wear it very casually, as it would appear from this photo, unbutton the bottom button and it will drape a lot better.
     


  5. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Hey looks pretty good.  So I take it you're going to wear this shirt casually, as opposed to with a tie?  If so, this length is good, especially if you're young, though an extra inch wouldn't hurt.

    I'd just echo your own comments...it's a little tight, especially across the chest.  "Regular" fit would probably look better.  If you do that, you might want to consider an additional .5" in the shoulder measurement, as there seems to be a little pulling in the upper chest.  The shoulders look great if the shirt is very tight, but if you're going with "regular", a slightly wider shoulder would look more balanced anyway.

    Have you considered making the collar points longer?
     


  6. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Add .25-.5 to each shoulder and .75-1" to the chest. I think the collar is fine. Iron the sleeves and let's see them. They probably have the signature Jantzen-first-shirt underarm bagginess, at least it looks that way. Add some to the hips obviously. And if you plan to tuck it in, add 2+" to the length. If not the length is pretty good, maybe add 1". I'd reduce the sleeve circumference a bit as well, at least toward the forearm.

    Overall, it looks like a shirt that you are just barely growing out of, but not too bad. See how it looks after 10x through the laundry, though. It may shrink considerably.
     


  7. Eric

    Eric Senior member

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    Yeah it looks tight around the chest, the neck looks to small, can you button it up to your neck at all? It looks like a good length for a casual shirt, but if you plan on tucking it in you'll need it to be longer. Like scnupe7 siad the shoulders look a little tight as well.

    Eric
     


  8. twhite1

    twhite1 Member

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    What changes between the first shirt and subsequent shirts that removes the "first-shirt" bagginess? Also, how do you reduce the sleeve circumference since they don't seem to ask for that detail anywhere?

    I'm going to be ordering a Jantzen after finding out a little more about proper fit, etc. Things like:

    where the shoulders on a shirt should properly end,
    how to have the shirt adjusted so that the sleeves aren't like wings,
    which particular back pleat looks the best,
    whether a fly front shirt looks as cool as the diagram, whether a rounded collar with pin hole is acceptible (i want collar bars.),
    is a white or contrasting collar and french cuff a little much (bought a bunch of nice double enamel links) (maybe even a hidden contrast on both),
    is edge stitching ok,
    how to get the two button closure on the collar at the neck that I got on some of the shirts I've bought recently,
    and how to determine proper "shade of body".

    I'm also in the process of losing lbs more, so don't want to invest too much in custom shirts yet. But, I don't know if I can wait.
     


  9. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I would probably increase the shoulders .75" total. After some shrinkage the shoulders will then sit exactly where they are supposed to.

    Add 1 inch to the chest, and probably 1 inch to the hips. I would add .75 - 1" in length -- that will still be short enough to wear untucked, but it won't look so oddly short, IMO.

    I would also reduce the sleeve measurement a bit, maybe try .25" shorter. They are already just a dab long -- but may be close to perfect after laundering -- but increasing shoulder width will make them hang longer (it's true).

    I would stay with the form fit, because your increase in chest measurement and increase in shoulder especially will alleviate any smallness in this shirt. The form fit will give you a higher armhole and slimmer sleeve (I think this is just the default that Ricky uses for each particular cut).

    If you want narrower arms -- and I think this is the cause of any "wing effect," as opposed to the armhole not being high enough -- just request on your form "Please make sleeves a little bit narrower in the upper and lower arms (leave wrist circumfrence the same)." You could also attach email Ricky a picture immediately after you submit your order, pointing out the sleeve problem.

    However, you should note that digital cameras often accentuate drape, and the picture probably makes the sleeves look a little looser than they are.
     


  10. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    I would increase the hips by 2" and increase the length by 4" or so. I like the fit up top, it looks very clean. On your next order, you might consider asking Ricky to make the armholes higher.
     


  11. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    4" longer. That would go all the way to the bottom of his bottom, and is not what he wants.

    FWIW, I'm 5'10" and think that a shirt length of 29.5 to 30" is the best length to wear untucked. Your shirt is so short it looks like a t-shirt length.

    As a rule of thumb, your hips should probably be about 1" less than your chest, though it you wear the shirt short and untucked probably 2" less.
     


  12. truthhurts

    truthhurts Senior member

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    Try length + 1", hips +1", waist -1", chest +1," shoulders +1".
     


  13. rlevine

    rlevine Well-Known Member

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    I would increase the shoulders by an inch and the length by 2.5-3 inches. Also, why do the cuffs have two buttons?
     


  14. scnupe7

    scnupe7 Senior member

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    Good catch. I didn't notice that at first. I'm not feeling that either.
     


  15. raley

    raley Senior member

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    Hmm, the button question is a good one. I am sure that I requested a single button [​IMG]. Thanks a lot for the help though, I will try to think out some of these things. Yes, one of the things I noticed was the sleeves were a bit long, so I think I will reduce them a little bit. If I widen the shoulders by .5-.75 then what will a good decrease in sleeve length be to get them right? This shirt has been washed 4-5 times so I think it is about set for that. The collar is tight buttoned, which is odd because I specified 16" and I wear 15.5" in ready to wear. Maybe RTW is just about .75" bigger than marked and the 16" is spot on, I will probably go with 16.25" next time in the collar if I plan on making it a shirt that I can wear with a tie as well. So let's get this straight - Increase chest/hips, decrease sleeve, increase shoulder, increase neck; then, decrease sleeve circumference but leave cuff circumference the same - check. Anything about armholes? It seems like the armholes start pretty close to where my armpits are, actually. Maybe about 1/2 an inch or so lower.
     


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