Jacket Size: Big Issue.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Betelgeuse, Sep 28, 2012.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Hello everyone!

    I recently found this forum, cause I love wearing a suit or a sportcoat or blazer, I recently found the love to wear this kind of clothes. So a year ago I upgraded my complete wardrobe, back then, I only had one suit, a black Massimo Dutti Super 130's which I used for my prom.

    I love fitness but this has become a big issue. I have a big back compared to my waist (40' - 30'). So when I bought all my new suits a lot of work had to be done. There is nothing off the rack that fit me. In fact my personal tailor is still wornking on some clothes. I think he has done a marvelous work considering the alterations the suits needs.

    Now there is a lot of information in here that I wish I would knew back then when I bought my suits. Especially in this part: "Many highly priced brands (e.g. all but the highest quality Armani, Hugo Boss) sell fused jackets." from this article http://www.styleforum.net/a/what-kind-of-suit-should-i-buy. And that is because I bought all my suits without knowing what was a fused jacket of a full-canvased jacket. I was aware of that I wasn't buying the top suits but at least some good quality suits and now to find out it is not, it's quite dissapointing. I bought some Armani Collezioni, Giorgio Armani and Z Zegna. I still think it was a good deal because the Armani suits (all of them) I bought them for only 60% of their retail price.

    I bought two Hugo Boss jackets, and reading in here that they are not that good, I think that becuase of the price it was a good deal, one for somewhere around 200 usd and the other one 330 usd. Now going back to the fit, I don't have a big chest but my lats they are big. When I buy a jacket I try the 40R, 40L, 42R. The 42R is enourmous. The 40L, the sleeves are way too long. And the 40R the sleeves and everyting seems to be right. There is a problem with all of them, shoulders. And truth is I don't know how they should look. Of course all of the also in the waist area are enourmous.

    So is there a thread with some visual help to see how shoulder should look? I asked once in another source and the comment I recieved was "it should be where the shoulder ends and the arm starts". Ok, I asked a friend of mine who is a doctor and he told that, that point was where the biceps starts. I can figure this out, I'm very bad at anatomy.

    And finally, sorry for the long post, which brands of suits/jackets are acceptable? I was checking the thread were this was being discussed, but I can't afford right now a Kiton or Brioni or something like that. I would live to have in my wardrobe all my suits made by Antonio Solito, but I don't have 6,000 usd for a suit of him.

    Thanks in advance.

    Sorry for the long post. Have a great day!

    Cheers from Mexico!
     
  2. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Post picture. Somebody will tell you if the shoulders are too big/small
     
  3. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thnaks, I promise I will try to upload a picture as soon as possible. Any comment regarding the question of what brand of suit is convinient?
     
  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Sorry for bringing this back to life. I got this pic, a back shot. This is one of the Giorgio Armani's suit. My tailor told me, that some of these suits can be altered so they can reach one inch more. Can you please confirm this?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    Yeah, the shoulders are too wide. The rest is tough to call in that lighting. What type of rug is that?
     
  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks! I've got a big ptoblem. When I bought all my suits I was a size 40, a year ago. But then I started a bulking phase to gain some muscle and ended with a 42 inch chest! Now I'm going to start a cutting pahse, I hope to decrease a bit my chest measurement.

    The rug, I don't know how is it called or how to describe it. It has like "hair", ones are thin others are a thick. I don't know haha sorry!
     
  7. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    VinnyMac, sorry I forgot to ask, what do you think about what my tailor told me? The fact that some jackets can be made bigger. <- I don't know if this is well-spelled/grammatically correct, my apologies.
     
  8. guymac12

    guymac12 Senior member

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    I have a navy Massimo Dutt i jacket that is a staple in my wardrobe. Very comfortable and I wear it all thetime in the office, for dinner. I'd put on a simple tailored shirt and the jacket in the morning and I'm all set for the entire day.
     
  9. atoms

    atoms Senior member

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    "Shag"
     
  10. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks! My mom bought it, I only know it looks cool.

    Nice, I use that suit frecuently, that suit is a 42, but the chest doesn't look like the ones that are 40. IMO the chest looks better in the ones that are 40.
     
  11. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    If you mean "letting out" the waist/chest so that there's a little more space, then that's true. I think that adjustments to the chest and waist are more easy/inexpensive than adjustments to the shoulders. I've got a similar issue. I have a pretty large chest measurements and a small waist measurements, so I can't find suits OTR that fit well. For that reason, I usually don't buy OTR, but if I did, I'd make sure that it fit in the shoulders and that the jacket length was right. The other things, you could make reasonable adjustments too.
     
  12. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    The shoulders are on the wide side, but more problematically, they look like pagoda shoulders (i.e. concave). A terribly late-70s-Pierre Cardin look. Avoid.
     
  13. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks for your answer, I will ask him, cause as I understand it, is that he could "let out" a bit of the back so that it fit to the shoulders. I promise I will take a pic, cause I really like how the suit looks in the chest area, it kinda looks like my body (chest area - waist) looks. But the shoulders are the main problem here. If he can do that - letting out the back a bit - it would be awesome!

    So you buy your suits MTM or bespoke? I'm trying to find a good tailor here in Mexico in order to have bespoke suits, but surprinsingly there are none or at least they are really hard to find.
     
  14. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks, I will have this in mind for future reference. Is there a fix for that? Maybe the shoulder pads or something like that?
     
  15. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    Probably. But it's 10x easier just finding another suit. There's plenty of fish in the sea.
     

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