Hello everyone! I recently found this forum, cause I love wearing a suit or a sportcoat or blazer, I recently found the love to wear this kind of clothes. So a year ago I upgraded my complete wardrobe, back then, I only had one suit, a black Massimo Dutti Super 130's which I used for my prom. I love fitness but this has become a big issue. I have a big back compared to my waist (40' - 30'). So when I bought all my new suits a lot of work had to be done. There is nothing off the rack that fit me. In fact my personal tailor is still wornking on some clothes. I think he has done a marvelous work considering the alterations the suits needs. Now there is a lot of information in here that I wish I would knew back then when I bought my suits. Especially in this part: "Many highly priced brands (e.g. all but the highest quality Armani, Hugo Boss) sell fused jackets." from this article http://www.styleforum.net/a/what-kind-of-suit-should-i-buy. And that is because I bought all my suits without knowing what was a fused jacket of a full-canvased jacket. I was aware of that I wasn't buying the top suits but at least some good quality suits and now to find out it is not, it's quite dissapointing. I bought some Armani Collezioni, Giorgio Armani and Z Zegna. I still think it was a good deal because the Armani suits (all of them) I bought them for only 60% of their retail price. I bought two Hugo Boss jackets, and reading in here that they are not that good, I think that becuase of the price it was a good deal, one for somewhere around 200 usd and the other one 330 usd. Now going back to the fit, I don't have a big chest but my lats they are big. When I buy a jacket I try the 40R, 40L, 42R. The 42R is enourmous. The 40L, the sleeves are way too long. And the 40R the sleeves and everyting seems to be right. There is a problem with all of them, shoulders. And truth is I don't know how they should look. Of course all of the also in the waist area are enourmous. So is there a thread with some visual help to see how shoulder should look? I asked once in another source and the comment I recieved was "it should be where the shoulder ends and the arm starts". Ok, I asked a friend of mine who is a doctor and he told that, that point was where the biceps starts. I can figure this out, I'm very bad at anatomy. And finally, sorry for the long post, which brands of suits/jackets are acceptable? I was checking the thread were this was being discussed, but I can't afford right now a Kiton or Brioni or something like that. I would live to have in my wardrobe all my suits made by Antonio Solito, but I don't have 6,000 usd for a suit of him. Thanks in advance. Sorry for the long post. Have a great day! Cheers from Mexico!