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Jacket: shoulders fit, tight chest vs. chest fits, too big shoulders...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Jay687, Aug 3, 2010.

  1. Jay687

    Jay687 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Which is the better option for OTR?

    I have a fairly thick chest/back compared to my shoulders.

    What fits well on my shoulders for a 36" will pull at my chest (measure 38").

    Yet, when i go to 38" they are also adjusting for your entire frame to be larger, not just chest measurement. So, then the shoulders are a bit big.

    Which comprise is best?
     
  2. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Why not try a different brand?

    Sounds like you have narrow shoulders for a 38. Some brands are cut narrower in the shoulder then others.
     
  3. KingOfTheForum

    KingOfTheForum Senior member

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    You can have the chest adjusted. Take that into consideration. I'd like to now just how over-sized the shoulders are and how tight the chest is.
     
  4. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    neither.

    if shoulder fits (a must) and chest is a little big, that is adjustable.

    smaller chest on shoulder fits? not too sure how much you can let out, but it is trickier than taking in.

    i would agree with the above, try another brand. some brands are just not made for you.
     
  5. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    You can take the shoulders in, but it's much much easier to buy a good fit in the shoulders and adjust from there.
     
  6. hobscrk777

    hobscrk777 Senior member

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    I thought that any chest alteration - whether letting it out or taking it in - was quite difficult. Is this not true?
     
  7. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    I thought that any chest alteration - whether letting it out or taking it in - was quite difficult. Is this not true?

    I think it depends a bit on how near the armhole you are. If you're not too close, it should be essentially the same as taking in or letting out the waist. Letting things out always depends on how much seam allowance you have.
     
  8. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    OP, you will want a roomy american brand, or one with an american-ish cut.

    also, if you are large-chested, go for a 2B, which will be more forgiving -- a 3B may require closure at precisely the point of stress.
     
  9. Darksid3

    Darksid3 New Member

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    I agree with the others, try some other brands.
     
  10. KingOfTheForum

    KingOfTheForum Senior member

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    I thought that any chest alteration - whether letting it out or taking it in - was quite difficult. Is this not true?



    It's not very difficult to take in the chest. However, your movement will be severely restricted if too much needs to be taken in.
     
  11. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    also, if you are large-chested, go for a 2B, which will be more forgiving -- a 3B may require closure at precisely the point of stress.

    What makes you say this? Unless he's buttoning the top button, it's no different.
     
  12. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    What makes you say this? Unless he's buttoning the top button, it's no different.

    exactly.
     
  13. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    You need to shop around a lot and pay attention to the different makers and models you are trying. Some of the Italian makers have relatively narrower shoulders. If you have a really, really good alterations tailor, you can remove the sleeves and narrower the shoulders. This is not cheap and has its risks, but I have had some sucess with it. The only other real option is custom/bespoke or good MTM.
     
  14. bowtielover

    bowtielover Senior member

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    Location:
    Cincinnati OH
    Which is the better option for OTR?

    I have a fairly thick chest/back compared to my shoulders.

    What fits well on my shoulders for a 36" will pull at my chest (measure 38").

    Yet, when i go to 38" they are also adjusting for your entire frame to be larger, not just chest measurement. So, then the shoulders are a bit big.

    Which comprise is best?


    I would stay with the 36 and have the chest and sides let out if need be, nothing looks worse then when the jacket is too big in the shoulders. You look like you do not know what size you are and it distracts from the intention of the outfit.
     
  15. Made in California

    Made in California Senior member

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    Los Angeles, CA
    Hi,
    Nice post.. Keep it up......


    You, too.
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Location:
    New York City
    You need to shop around a lot and pay attention to the different makers and models you are trying. Some of the Italian makers have relatively narrower shoulders. If you have a really, really good alterations tailor, you can remove the sleeves and narrower the shoulders. This is not cheap and has its risks, but I have had some sucess with it. The only other real option is custom/bespoke or good MTM.

    I've had this done by very good tailors and while the job gets done, I feel like they almost always screw up the sleeve caps, which makes the jacket unwearable in my opinion.
     

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