Jacket Pockets: General Rules

[Parker]

Are pocket configurations based on the formality of the jacket style (or cloth)? Or are they a matter of preference? Or a little of both? For example, could a light gray flannel suit take patch pockets? Or could a tan linen suit take besom pockets? Flaps look a little too formal to me on sport jackets, but they seem pretty universal. Are there "general rules" about pockets?

Sorry if this has been already covered, search turned up just bits and pieces.

 

[Style Pontifex]

My understanding is that flap pockets are for more casual attire and besom pockets are for more formal attire.

 

[Parker]

Here's a few guidelines from scattered posts. Don't know if these are "correct" or not.

3 patch on
blazers, casual odd jackets

2 patch, 1 welted breast on
blazers, casual odd jackets, casual suits

Flaps on
most any suits, most odd jackets

Besom on
just suits with more formal cloths, dinner jackets

 

[comrade]

I guess I am in violation of the "rules"
Everything I own has flap pockets.
That includes a tuxedo from Paul Stuart.
I personally can't abide patch pockets.

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by Parker

Are pocket configurations based on the formality of the jacket style (or cloth)? Or are they a matter of preference? Or a little of both? For example, could a light gray flannel suit take patch pockets? Or could a tan linen suit take besom pockets? Flaps look a little too formal to me on sport jackets, but they seem pretty universal. Are there "general rules" about pockets?

Sorry if this has been already covered, search turned up just bits and pieces.

My rule of thumb is that in theory patch pockets are inherently more casual than flap pockets which in turn are more casual than besom pockets.

Now, having said that, the rarity of besom pockets is such that they really catch the eye so I think are effectively less formal than flap pockets because rather than creating a streamlined silhouette they create a more disruptive one. So I'd place them as less casual than patch pockets but more casual in practice than flap pockets. (I also personally quite dislike how besom pockets look, but that's just my little bugbear).

Of course, pockets are only one element of formality - fabric, cut and accessories can affect the formality level of a jacket a lot. Several members here use patch pockets on more formal items and it works for them because of how they wear those items - for instance, iammatt, Manton and I think maybe aportnoy all have at least some patch pocket suits that would be unremarkable (in a good sense of the word) in a business setting, as well as being wearable in more casual settings.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

My rule of thumb is that in theory patch pockets are inherently more casual than flap pockets which in turn are more casual than besom pockets.

+1 to HF's above.

Where I differ is that I see flaps and patches as "visual weights." So, if I am wanting minimal and formal it is no cuffs on trousers and double besoms jacket pockets. If I am leaning towards casual, then it is cuffs on trousers, and then either flaps or patch pockets on the jackets, depending on the fabric. For casual jackets I specify flaps for solids and patch for patterned fabrics.

Just what I have worked out for myself.

- M

 

[Parker]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

the rarity of besom pockets is such that they really catch the eye so I think are effectively less formal than flap pockets because rather than creating a streamlined silhouette they create a more disruptive one.

I see what you're saying. I kinda like besoms, but maybe I'll just reserve them for more formal setting (rather than a linen suit).

Originally Posted by Holdfast

...some patch pocket suits that would be unremarkable (in a good sense of the word) in a business setting, as well as being wearable in more casual settings.

This is what I was thinking for a gray flannel suit. Skew casual but won't be too out of place in a meeting.

mmkn, your system seems logical to me.

A related pocket question: how is the width of flap pockets determined? In relation to the collar? lapel? trouser cuff? Or is there one size standard for all?

 

[Despos]

This is how I was taught from old school Italian tailors.
Suits & tuxedos; besom pocket, but is variable with cloth used. You may want flaps on a tweed suit or flannel or less dressy suits.

Sportcoat & topcoat; flaps

Patch pockets; when and where your preference lies.

Flap width and pocket size relate first to the jacket size. 40 chest/30 length will have a smaller pocket and a more narrow flap than a 48 chest/33 length. If you wear a 40 long or a 48 short the flap width should be proportionate. Flap will relate to lapel width second or vice versa.

 

[chorse123]

I saw an old Hispanic guy in the post office today. Ancient looking tan cotton suit with besom pockets, no vent, flat front uncuffed pants. He looked spectacular. Wish I had a camera with me. If I was ordering that suit, I would have gotten side vents and flapped pockets, but sometimes diverting from the expected produces great results.

 

[Axelman 17]

I like two patch pockets (swelled edges) and a welt breast pocket on more casual suits and most sportcoats. I personally dont like the look of three patches on suits.

I think three patches are best for lighter weight sportcoats or very casual jackets like cordoroy

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by Style Pontifex

My understanding is that flap pockets are for more casual attire and besom pockets are for more formal attire.

These are essentially the same thing. Besom merely refers to the double jetting at the upper and lower edges of the pocket mouth.

The flap is set between them.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by GBR

These are essentially the same thing. Besom merely refers to the double jetting at the upper and lower edges of the pocket mouth. The flap is set between them.
Generally when we say besom pockets we mean those without a flap, even though those with a flap are technically also besom...

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

Generally when we say besom pockets we mean those without a flap, even though those with a flap are technically also besom...

But since you can stuff the flap into the pocket, why have a besom pocket made without a flap?

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

Generally when we say besom pockets we mean those without a flap, even though those with a flap are technically also besom...

Do you?

 

[eg1]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

But since you can stuff the flap into the pocket, why have a besom pocket made without a flap?

Good question, though I often have anyway

I am guessing the formality gradient might descend like this:

besom
flap
patch
bellows