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jacket collar rolls up in the back....

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mack11211, Dec 4, 2004.

  1. mack11211

    mack11211 Distinguished Member

    Likes Received:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Brooklyn USA
    Dear Folks: On certain vintage jackets that I have seen, including some I own, the jacket collar rolls up in the back, exposing the felt. Here is an example: Check the picture of the close-up of the back. This seems to happen irrespective of the quality of the garment, but only seems to happen in garments a few decades old, or more. Some 50 year old jackets still have collars that sit just great, while others only 20 or 30 years old suffer from this, so it is not purely an effect of age. My first question is, why does this happen? What shifts? Or what shrinks? My second question is, how may it be corrected, if at all? With my own jackets suffering from this condition, the dry cleaner may steam-press the thing into approximately the right shape, but it seems a losing battle.

  2. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Likes Received:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Seattle, WA
    Funny, I was noticing this just now on a camel hair jacket I've been messing with lately.

    My guess is that either the dry cleaning process shrinks the jacket fabric more than it shrinks the melton underneath, or that the wearer's body shape over time causes it to happen.

    One of my tailoring books shows pinning the collar assembly around a tailor's ham and steaming it to set the shape, so I will try that before trying anything more drastic like cutting the melton shorter or something. Don't just try pressing it down though, you don't want to crease the fabric there.

  3. armscye

    armscye Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    Mar 15, 2004
    On one jacket I owned, this occurred due to the interlining of the collar being too tall after alteration. My tailor had moved the collar attachment point downward without trimming the interlining properly. Once he corrected this, the felt ceased to show.

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