Jacket back details?

[chorse123]

What are your thoughts on jacket back details, like this:

Too costumey? It looks like Brooks Brothers is rolling them out again--not sure if they went away, but I saw a bunch of jackets with this detail at the store yesterday. Also, will it make it difficult for a tailor to do alterations?

 

[whoopee]

I love belted backs. Pleat and bi swing backs are nice too. Not something you'd get on a business suit but on countrified clothing, they are a nice touch.

 

[AskAndyAboutClothes]

Bi-swing backs in suits and sport jackets are more "country" than city since the origins are from hunting jackets. They allowed arm movement to shoot firearms (shotguns).

Unless your office or the occasion is very conservative/dressy/serious this feature should be OK.

And a little history from The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes:

The Norfolk jacket changed the pattern of menswear. Tradition links it to the sportsmen on the Duke of Norfolk's estate where guest included the Prince of Wales (to be King George IV). Whether the Duke or the Prince designed the first jacket and had his tailor craft the first one is still in dispute.

The Norfolk design has a loose, comfortable fit across the shoulders and chest, matching fabric belt, box pleats (two in front, and one in the rear) providing freedom of movement, making it easier to swing and fire a gun while hunting. It was probably the first garment specifically designed sports use, the first sport jacket and the introduction of the idea of a non-matching jacket and trousers.

Andy

 

[Jovan]

In the 1930's these look like they took quite a bit of advantage of that feature and were quite fitted at the waist.

 

[LabelKing]

Is that a rather subtle martingale?

 

[chorse123]

Come again?

Well, I went ahead and bought this jacket from Tarheel:

Will replace the buttons with plain horn, I think. I don't know how much wear I'll get out of it, but the fabric looks great, and I've come to realize I don't really need suits, but can definitely use more jackets.

 

[LabelKing]

The martingale is the belted bit on the back.