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Jacket arm hole

Gentlemanlee

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I had a suit made to measure and when I raise my arms the shoulder lifts up and the chest rises. There appears to be excessive fabric where the arm meets the body. What ha the jacket maker done wrong? I have to take it back to him next week and want to be armed with some knowledge.
 

GBear

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High arm holes is what you should asked for.
 

Gentlemanlee

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So does that make it my fault for not asking or should I have been given the choice?
 

acecow

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I'd say it's your problem for not knowing what you wanted. Depending on the price and quality of service they may or may not re-do the suit. That's why you should venture into MTM or bespoke very carefully. It's best to try some OTR jackets first and get them tailored to understand what you want from a custom made piece.
 

TheFoo

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Contrary to internet superstition, any jacket will move if you raise your arms, no matter how small the arm hole. In a well-fitting jacket, the effect is mitigated, not eliminated.

Also, it's stupid to ask for your arm holes to be done a certain way. Your tailor or fitter should do what's right. If you have to instruct him in that way, you're screwed from the beginning. But this has to do with another internet myth.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by acecow
I'd say it's your problem for not knowing what you wanted. Depending on the price and quality of service they may or may not re-do the suit. That's why you should venture into MTM or bespoke very carefully. It's best to try some OTR jackets first and get them tailored to understand what you want from a custom made piece.

I disagree. I think you can learn very little about how a bespoke suit should fit by wearing different kinds of RTW. RTW allows you to explore different styles, but many matters and nuances of fit are only ever addressed in bespoke. On Styleforum, people often speak of fit and style as if they are one and the same, but they aren't. The only real way to explore bespoke is through bespoke.
 

Gentlemanlee

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Yes it makes sence for a jacket to move whatever the armhole size but this is IMO excessive the shoulders lift up quite a lot and the chest folds
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by Gentlemanlee
Yes it makes sence for a jacket to move whatever the armhole size but this is IMO excessive the shoulders lift up quite a lot and the chest folds

It's impossible for anyone here to verify that without pictures. It's extra impossible to diagnose the problem as relating to armhole size.
 

GBR

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Originally Posted by Gentlemanlee
So does that make it my fault for not asking or should I have been given the choice?

You should have specified this - not the cutters task to offer you a choice. Either would be considered 'correct' just that one is better than the other and a mark of quality.

Tough - get it right next time.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by GBR
You should have specified this - not the cutters task to offer you a choice. Either would be considered 'correct' just that one is better than the other and a mark of quality.

Tough - get it right next time.


You're being facetious right? It's ridiculous for anyone to think armholes height and size should be stipulated. Also, we have no idea if: (a) there's a problem, or (b) the armholes are the cause.

Of course, if you live in a GQ-reduced sartorial universe, the only things that differentiate a jacket are its armhole height, button stance, hem length, and slim-fittedness.
 

acecow

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I disagree. I think you can learn very little about how a bespoke suit should fit by wearing different kinds of RTW. RTW allows you to explore different styles, but many matters and nuances of fit are only ever addressed in bespoke. On Styleforum, people often speak of fit and style as if they are one and the same, but they aren't. The only real way to explore bespoke is through bespoke.

Well, of course! But if you don't start learning about the basic things by wearing cheap OTR jackets, you are almost certainly doomed to throw out a lot of money on expensive MTM or bespoke stuff that you won't like a year later.
 

Gentlemanlee

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
You're being facetious right? It's ridiculous for anyone to think armholes height and size should be stipulated. Also, we have no idea if: (a) there's a problem, or (b) the armholes are the cause.

Of course, if you live in a GQ-reduced sartorial universe, the only things that differentiate a jacket are its armhole height, button stance, hem length, and slim-fittedness.


This sounds sensible stuff. I shall get some photos taken so the issue can be seen.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by acecow
Well, of course! But if you don't start learning about the basic things by wearing cheap OTR jackets, you are almost certainly doomed to throw out a lot of money on expensive MTM or bespoke stuff that you won't like a year later.

Eh, disagree still. If you're eventually going to do bespoke, it's the RTW stuff you start with that's a waste. You will learn more after your first bespoke fitting with a good tailor about how a suit should fit than you will after trying a hundred different RTW suits.
 

GiltEdge

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Originally Posted by Gentlemanlee
So does that make it my fault for not asking or should I have been given the choice?

Since it was MTM then you need to ask because it's the house style. At this point you can deepen the armhole, reduce the chest, blades and even the P2P.
 

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