Jacket and shirt help

[DancingPete]

I'm new to the world of adult men's fashion and I want to do things right. I just purchased my first custom tailored suit and after bringing it home I realized that the collar bunches up behind the neck. I know I should have looked for it at the tailor's but I didn't really know what to look for. The tailor was in a different country so I can't go back to him. Shirts I had him make are having the same problem. My question is what causes this? Is it that the jacket is too small or the collar too tight? I have been losing weight anyway so I was wondering if it's possible that could solve the problem. The rest of the suit fits very well.

So is this something I could shrink into or must I see another tailor to have it fixed? I realize this may be a dumb question but I'm finding it surprisingly hard to find an answer on the internet or elsewhere on the forum. I appreciate any help that anyone can offer.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

It depends. Pictures are needed. If it is a roll a tailor can reduce the length of the back neck at the risk of the collar pulling away from your shirt collar.

 

[DancingPete]

I appreciate the help. The shirts are doing it as well as the jacket. If you'll excuse my ignorance I wouldn't think that shirts are typically altered. Without being able to upload a picture right now, I think this image approximates my problem:

Do you suppose it is caused by it being too small, in which case a tailor might be able to let fabric out? Or does the suit have to be pulled down, as you suggested? Thanks again.

 

[phxlawstudent]

So, there's a gap in between your suit collar and shirt collar? And a gap in between your shirt collar and neck?

Not a tailor, but am curious if standing up straighter or altering posture would change that. Not saying this is a permanent solution or anything, I'm just curious if that's the problem.

 

[Roger Everett]

What you are showing is collar roll. This the result of your build, Whether you are slump backed or straight or your neck position to shoulders and whether you are square shouldered. It is also something you want a good tailor for, not the alterations place at the mall or cleaners. As it is one of the alterations that requires skill and experience to do right.

Get some with a tailor who comes recommended, and is very experienced -- develope a relationship with him.

This requires that the collar be undone and also part of the seam down each shoulder, as it is tucked in at both collar and into shoulder seam to make right. This is where a good eye and experience comes into play. I Have square shoulders and even at 66 still work out on a universial, so I need to have this done on every jacket I buy $45-50, more in big town up north. And I have had it done wrong, you end up with rolls on the shoulders -- a mf'er to get fixed $$$$.

The first thing I do when I buy a new suit or SC is go the Daniel-- Have him ( in person , right in there where he can touch the jacket and mark it ) ) inspect and give recommendations. Much better than some fuzzy - grainy - out of focus picture posted to a forum of ( mostly ) non tailors.

I might add -- that many guys live with collar roll and don't know to get it fixed or realize it, though the guy walking in back of you, thinks you bought the jacket at K mart
-- as for the shirts - have tailor look at them , though cost might say you're f'ed

 

[DancingPete]

I'm grateful for the help. I do wonder if slimming down might fix the problem as an off-the-rack suit that I am replacing because I've gotten too small for it does not bunch up. I don't live in a big city so I'm not sure about finding a very good tailor. I'll have to look into it further. I'm disappointed that the tailor that made the suit let me walk out with that problem. Live and learn.

Thanks again.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by DancingPete

I appreciate the help. The shirts are doing it as well as the jacket. If you'll excuse my ignorance I wouldn't think that shirts are typically altered. Without being able to upload a picture right now, I think this image approximates my problem:

Do you suppose it is caused by it being too small, in which case a tailor might be able to let fabric out? Or does the suit have to be pulled down, as you suggested?

Thanks again.

this quite plainly is because you have an erect posture.
roger described the alteration work correctly. although the job title is "shortening the back".
thats because cloth is removed from the top of the back, making the back length shorter.
if you will look at your side view in a mirror. see the bottom of the coat at the back, its probably longer than the front.

can you send this back to be altered?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

So basically what I said in the first post.

 

[DancingPete]

Thanks to all for the help. I can't really grasp how the back could be shortened without the collar being pulled down, as Patrick said. Looking in the mirror, the back does not seem to hang lower.

I could send it back for free alterations but with the shipping costs (from America to Hong Kong) and the likelihood that something can still be wrong since I'm not there for a fitting, I think it's best to get it done here.

 

[Roger Everett]

Originally Posted by DancingPete

Thanks to all for the help. I can't really grasp how the back could be shortened without the collar being pulled down, as Patrick said. Looking in the mirror, the back does not seem to hang lower.

I could send it back for free alterations but with the shipping costs (from America to Hong Kong) and the likelihood that something can still be wrong since I'm not there for a fitting, I think it's best to get it done here.

Pete:
You don't see, it doesn't seem to hang lower, because it would if you pull it down in back to tighten up at collar. The extra now is hanging around at the collar.

For the life of me, I could never see ordering something custom made, long distance, I can't imagine saving enough money, to make up for the aggravation. And especially expecting to have it altered long distance, I mean really think about it. You need a good experienced tailor actually looking at the problem -- touching it -- and marking it. WOULD YOU WANT TO GET A HEART TRANSPLANT WITH MAILED TO YOU INSTRUCTIONS. The Tailor I go to bespokes everything from the ties- suspenders- SC and suits. On a suit or SC you allways go back in 2-3 times so he can Tweek it, he calls it, tuning it up.

Roger

people who order sight unseen mail order get less than they expect

 

[DancingPete]

Rereading my post, I realize I wasn't clear. I didn't order the suit by mail, I had it made while travelling in Hong Kong. I went for a measurement and then two fittings. You'll probably wonder how I can go through all that and not notice the bunching. Like I said, this is my first "real" suit that I'm buying on my own and I didn't really know what to look out for. I did research before about the styles, fabrics, lapels, vents, buttons, etc. and assumed that making it fit me properly was the tailor's job. The bunching is also something I don't feel but see when I'm looking sideways. So that suit felt great and looked great straight on.

I understand your point about pulling it down now. I appreciate the help. I'm still hoping I might be able to shrink into it because my less form-fitting jackets don't do this. Then perhaps I can have a local tailor make the easier alterations of taking in the sides to make it fit.