-Jack/Knife Outfitters Bespoke Denim

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by GusW, Dec 20, 2011.

  1. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks guys. Glad you enjoyed reading about it. Damn, I sure got hungry thinking about that fried chicken sandwich while writing it up though. :)
     
  2. marg

    marg Senior member

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    I hope there is a plan to do a traveling show or something. I'm in Philly, and I NEED this. (the jeans mostly, but that sandwich looks good, too)
     
  3. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

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    That would be pretty awesome. Cheesesteaks notwithstanding, though, I think we have some pretty decent sandwiches right here in Philly.

    Also, is it a bad sign that my first reaction was, "I can't believe those are only $200"? I think I've been on this forum too long.
     
  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    That sandwich and fries/chips look delicious, but I'll need to make sure I go on a day when I've run in the morning to offset.
     
  5. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Great thread, thanks for the write up G. The chambray work shirt looks awesome, are those bespoke as well?
     
  6. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    Great write up PSG,thanks for sharing. I'm looking forward to seeing how the jeans comes out.

    -LR
     
  7. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    PSG, great thread. Cant wait to see the final product.
     
  8. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    John said it was going to be available in standard sizing but could be adapted by made to measure. He wants to tweak the pocket design and buttons for a little more detail and interest. Then it will be offered on the web site.
     
  9. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I met with John and Nick today. Good guys. Was really impressed with their operation. Lots of primo deadstock denim and canvas, vintage sewing machines, cool hardware, good music, etc. They're focused on all bespoke stuff and uncompromising about quality. Jeans, barn jackets, and shirts. I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes. Ordered a pair based on my old LVC '47s in the gray-cast slubby.
     
  10. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    The guys couldn't have been nicer. Parker was leaving as I was heading in - lucky man had his ordered in the last of a really cool Japanese denim, I forget which.

    The brothers are obviously passionate about denim, explaining the heritage of each bolt, from 60s American Cone mills deadstock to a really cool, outrageously soft denim they called reverse twill, which looks like herringbone but is twill in that they weave it left a quarter inch, then turn it around for another quarter inch, and so on. A shirt in this fabric would be amazing.

    Also learned that the Japanese dug denim but found the right twill to have too dry a hand. They bought American Cone mills, wove it left, and bam - a softer jean, and the rest is history.

    I was gonna go all-American but the guys convinced me otherwise for my first pair. I ended up choosing a 14.5 oz Japanese denim that John himself was wearing. He showed me some that he said Union Made folks go crazy for, a really stiff denim that he says "stands up with no legs in it." Cool, but maybe for later.

    In describing the difference between the American made & Japanese made denim, he said that American made denim is more robust - a denser weave with generally more threads per inch, and a more uniform twill. "They take pride in saying it lasts, and it does outlast Japanese denim, both the dye and the fabric." It wears forever and that is the true American jean, durable and good looking, the kind that Steve McQueeen and Paul Newman wore in the 60s. He loves it.

    However, he also waxed on about how the Japanese denim encapsulates "wabi sabi", which has the idea of "perfect imperfection." Compared to American made denim, it's not nearly as uniform, and therein lies its charm. Also, the Japanese are much more creative with their dyes and finishes. For example, he showed me a really cool bolt where the underside (weft) was undyed and dipped in mud (yep, mud), and the warp on the outside, which was a deep indigo, had a black finish. The result was an almost black indigo, which is cool enough, but its real character will develop over time - as the jean wears and creases, it'll change from dark indigo to deep blue to brown to white.

    MIND BLOWN.

    Anyway, I'll go in for my first fitting in about a week. Can't wait.
     
  11. Salad

    Salad Senior member

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    Damn, I might have to give them a call for an appointment.
     
  12. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    Yeah! This is the way MC should be approaching denim. Great stuff!
     
  13. Fortysomething

    Fortysomething Senior member

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    No kidding...that was NICE!!
     
  14. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Great stuff guys. Thanks for writing up your experiences.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  15. Nereis

    Nereis Senior member

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    Aw shit, now I have to convince a whole bunch of guys to go to San Fran.
     

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