J. Press MTM

[wonkymythology]

Does anyone have recent experience with J.Press MTM? Hoping to try it soon. I like the sack cut and had a nice experience at the NH store, but I'm based in NY so will likely be working with that location. I'm looking to get a sport coat made and maybe some trousers & an OCBD (though those might be fine off the rack for me.)

Additional context that might be relevant - I'm a butch woman, so, y'know - narrow shoulders, shorter than most guys. I'm not looking for perfection by any means but I'm thinking MTM will get me a much better fit than trying to butcher a standard 34/36S.

 

[JFWR]

Does anyone have recent experience with J.Press MTM? Hoping to try it soon. I like the sack cut and had a nice experience at the NH store, but I'm based in NY so will likely be working with that location. I'm looking to get a sport coat made and maybe some trousers & an OCBD (though those might be fine off the rack for me.)

Additional context that might be relevant - I'm a butch woman, so, y'know - narrow shoulders, shorter than most guys. I'm not looking for perfection by any means but I'm thinking MTM will get me a much better fit than trying to butcher a standard 34/36S.

I didn't get a sport coat made for me, but I did get a white dress shirt that they made to measure. I was reasonably happy with the results. I think they did not address my concern with length (I have a long torso that causes my shirts to pull up) nearly as much as I'd have liked, and I think the material has suspect durability after less than a year of wear. That being said, the cut is perfect, everything fits really good, etc. I'd give it a 7.5/10, but given the price tag, I'd have expected something more like a 9/10.

I think you are correct that given your physical dimensions, you'd probably do better to get something MTM as men's dress shirts usually fit men's physiology, and your feminine physiology will upset those measurements otherwise.

 

[comrade]

I didn't get a sport coat made for me, but I did get a white dress shirt that they made to measure. I was reasonably happy with the results. I think they did not address my concern with length (I have a long torso that causes my shirts to pull up) nearly as much as I'd have liked, and I think the material has suspect durability after less than a year of wear. That being said, the cut is perfect, everything fits really good, etc. I'd give it a 7.5/10, but given the price tag, I'd have expected something more like a 9/10.

I think you are correct that given your physical dimensions, you'd probably do better to get something MTM as men's dress shirts usually fit men's physiology, and your feminine physiology will upset those measurements otherwise.

"I think you are correct that given your physical dimensions, you'd probably do better to get something MTM as men's dress shirts usually fit men's physiology, and your feminine physiology will upset those measurements otherwise."

As a self-appointed"word-policeman". I note that you use the term
"physiology", which means bodily function, instead of "anatomy",
or body structure. Differences in physiology between sexes might
refer to differences in perspiration, for example. I am not aware
that such a differences exist across genders.

 

[JFWR]

"I think you are correct that given your physical dimensions, you'd probably do better to get something MTM as men's dress shirts usually fit men's physiology, and your feminine physiology will upset those measurements otherwise."

As a self-appointed"word-policeman". I note that you use the term
"physiology", which means bodily function, instead of "anatomy",
or body structure. Differences in physiology between sexes might
refer to differences in perspiration, for example. I am not aware
that such a differences exist across genders.

Thanks. I will henceforward say anatomy.

 

[wonkymythology]

That being said, the cut is perfect, everything fits really good, etc. I'd give it a 7.5/10, but given the price tag, I'd have expected something more like a 9/10.

Thanks for your response. If you think there's someplace similar that you'd give a better "rating" to at the same price point I'd be interested to hear about it. This would be my second MTM piece of tailoring (had a grey flannel suit made in '18 that is... awful! from kipper clothiers - definitely at least 50% my fault so I'm writing it off as a "school fee") so I am open to advice. My knowledge is limited but it seems like J Press is just the obvious ivy option which is why I'm planning on going there.

 

[classicalthunde]

What’s your budget? I assume you’re in NYC?

 

[wonkymythology]

What’s your budget? I assume you’re in NYC?

Depends on the fabric (I have specific ideas about colour and pattern but I'm guessing price can vary wildly depending on the book/weight/etc) but definitely under 2k. I think I remember a sales assistant saying the jackets start well under that for MTM, but I doubt that'll be the case for me since I'll likely be drawn to swatches with some weight and texture and I remember those being significantly more expensive when I did this with kipper. Ideally some of that budget could go to, say, some otr flannel trousers that I can get the waist taken in on, or a MTM shirt, for example - but it's hard to find real pricing info online so I guess I'll be finding out at the consultation what the range is like. And yes, I'm in NYC.

 

[sargeinaz]

I hope if you do it that it goes well. Would love to hear about the process and final results if you decide to get one 🙏🏼

 

[classicalthunde]

Depends on the fabric (I have specific ideas about colour and pattern but I'm guessing price can vary wildly depending on the book/weight/etc) but definitely under 2k. I think I remember a sales assistant saying the jackets start well under that for MTM, but I doubt that'll be the case for me since I'll likely be drawn to swatches with some weight and texture and I remember those being significantly more expensive when I did this with kipper. Ideally some of that budget could go to, say, some otr flannel trousers that I can get the waist taken in on, or a MTM shirt, for example - but it's hard to find real pricing info online so I guess I'll be finding out at the consultation what the range is like. And yes, I'm in NYC.

The Armoury has a couple of ivy style models from Ring Jacket, and I think a MTM jacket comes in at under $2K depending on the fabric. I use Divij Hemrajani (who travels to NYC 3-4x a year) and he comes well under $2K for a jacket even if you include the additional fee for an extra basted fitting and can do ivy style details (machine stitched swelled lapel, hook vent, etc.). My recent tweed jacket, shirt, and trousers from Divij came in all together under $2K.

Not necessarily ivy-styled but there's also P. Johnson and No Man Walks Alone (@gdl203 is the owner and posts on the forum pretty regularly) are two places in NYC who do MTM with Sartoria Carrara which should come in under $2K for a jacket

Haven't heard much one way or the other about J Press MTM, but I'm always a bit warry of big name brands that specialize in RTW that do MTM on the side. FWIW I find its worth it to spend a bit more on boutique places that focus and specialize in MTM stuff and have staff who are well versed/experienced in doing a lot of dedicated MTM work.

 

[classicalthunde]

Broadly speaking - do you know what you're looking for (tweed, blazer, seersucker, country sport coat, etc.)?

 

[wonkymythology]

The Armoury has a couple of ivy style models from Ring Jacket, and I think a MTM jacket comes in at under $2K depending on the fabric

Wow, really??? For some reason I was under the impression that it would cost far more. It's so difficult to track down any pricing information. I'm new to this process though, so I realise I might be about to learn that 2k is a measly budget for what I'm thinking of -

Broadly speaking - do you know what you're looking for (tweed, blazer, seersucker, country sport coat, etc.)?

I'm looking for a wool sport coat, something I can wear with chinos or wool trousers (or denim even.) Casual for sure, and part of why I'm thinking about a sack cut is that being a woman, something with waist suppression + double vents tends to feel really formal to me - but I'm by no means married to being "trad" or anything like that. Tweed would be great, but I'm wondering if that would be $$$$. I like the colours/patterns in the attached image - I'm thinking a glen check of some kind or maybe a gun club or donegal-type thing, brown with olive/green. After much deliberation, I think it would be the most versatile addition to my wardrobe, which I'm building to be green/brown and lower contrast rather than the colourful and preppy vibes I think a navy blazer would fit into. Sorry, this might be less broad than your question asked for but hopefully it gets the idea across.

p.s. Apologies to all for my bastard mix of british and american spelling. I've moved around a lot in my short life.

 

[classicalthunde]

Wow, really??? For some reason I was under the impression that it would cost far more. It's so difficult to track down any pricing information. I

They have a pretty good customer service team if you reach out to them directly, they should be able to firm up the price range.

eed would be great, but I'm wondering if that would be $$$$. I like the colours/patterns in the attached image - I'm thinking a glen check of some kind or maybe a gun club or donegal-type thing, brown with olive/green. After much deliberation, I think it would be the most versatile addition to my wardrobe, which I'm building to be green/brown and lower contrast rather than the colourful and preppy vibes I think a navy blazer would fit into

All in all, I find tweeds tend to be cheaper than suiting or worsted cloth...I'd recommend looking at the W. Bill Donegal tweed book, I have one from that book and its soft and has great visual texture with the flecks. There's also Molloy and Sons if you're looking for an independent producer. Fox Bros has some great tweeds, but they can be on the pricier end (but your tailor will be able to get it for cheaper than the website). If you want something with a tweed look but a harder worsted finish, you could do something from the Worsted Alsport II book as well.

 

[pasadena man]

J. Press certainly has the provenance. I like the detailing (collar roll, etc.), materials, and construction quality. I don’t own any J Press shirts, but the few times I have tried them on I recall them as being somewhat voluminous and sail-like through the body. That is, of course, tradition/period correct, but might not be flattering on a shorter frame.

MTM an intriguing solution approach to that issue, but usually MTM is made through adapting a given model to individual measurements, and hence there are certain limits to that process, versus true bespoke.

I use Kamakura MTM for my OCBD’s and have been very happy with them. Prices are good for MTM, IMO, starting only $30-$40 more than their good value OTR. The quality of materials, detailing, and construction are excellent.

The brand’s owner has frequently said that they were inspired to make shirts like Brooks Brothers did 50 years ago but had since stopped making.

Their base models were originally designed for East Asian male customers, so might be a closer match for a Western woman, particularly through the shoulders (The average Japanese male weighs something like !40 lbs. versus 190 for the average American male).

 

[wonkymythology]

All in all, I find tweeds tend to be cheaper than suiting or worsted cloth

This is promising information! I appreciate all your book recs too. Looking at The Armoury's website it appears their ring jacket offerings are only offered MTM at trunk shows, but I will ask about it anyway for future reference.

Their base models were originally designed for East Asian male customers, so might be a closer match for a Western woman, particularly through the shoulders (The average Japanese male weighs something like !40 lbs. versus 190 for the average American male).

Really curious about Kamakura but according to the measurements I've found online they'd be too slim through the chest for me. MTM seems like a nice option and bespoke even more so because I have a very short neck and I'd love to work out a good BD collar height that doesn't dwarf it. Not sure if that can be done with MTM!

 

[jefferyd]

At least some of the J Press MTM is made in the United States so that can sometimes make the communication of specific requests easier. That particular factory can also do basted tryons if you are especially concerned about the fit.