J&M vs. C&J: A wingtip comparison

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PhiloVance, Mar 23, 2006.

  1. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    Thanks to Ken Pollock, I was able to acquire a pair of the J&M handmades, a brown wingtip. A truly beautiful shoe. I was comparing the J&Ms to the antique chestnut cliffords I purchased recently, and they really offer an interesting contrast in style for what is essentially the same "style" shoe. The 337 last is much more elongated at the toe, which gives the shoe a sleeker look. But the J&M is really just exquisite. Much more substantial shoe, and I think the medallion puts the C&J design to shame. I also noticed the J&M has some differentiation in the style/size of the broguing along the laces as compared to the rest of the shoe.

    I don't want to say the differences come down to simply American vs. English, but perhaps it really is that simple. And I really can't see much of a difference in craftsmanship, but I'm certainly no expert.
     


  2. darkoak

    darkoak Senior member

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    Pictures would greatly elucidate your points [​IMG]
     


  3. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    I have those exact same J&M's and they're fabulous. Where did you get yours? Take care of them: they're a lost treasure, as you know.
     


  4. Augusto86

    Augusto86 Sean Penn's Mexican love child

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    Do all wingtips have medallions?
     


  5. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    No but they usually do.
     


  6. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    Do all wingtips have medallions?
    Those that don't are sometimes called "austerity brogues." They are not common. See below.

    http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/w...00&imageType=2

    And they can be even more "austere" than that!
     


  7. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    The EG Beaulieu is another example of an austerity brogue. There is actually no broguing.
     


  8. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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  9. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The EG Beaulieu is another example of an austerity brogue. There is actually no broguing.

    The C&J handgrade Tavistock is also an austerity brgoue and quite similar to the Beaulieu.
     


  10. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    Thanks, Roger. I did see those, but I may not bite. (Price certainly is right, though!)
     


  11. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    Roger, Thanks for the pic! Yes, those J&Ms look sturdy. What exactly is the name of that style of wingtip, where the wing broguing actually runs the entire length of the shoe to the back ?
     


  12. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    I have those exact same J&M's and they're fabulous. Where did you get yours? Take care of them: they're a lost treasure, as you know.

    Mr. Pollock was kind enough to sell me a pair. They are really something else, I'm really wondering if they should even be worn.
     


  13. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    Roger, Thanks for the pic! Yes, those J&Ms look sturdy. What exactly is the name of that style of wingtip, where the wing broguing actually runs the entire length of the shoe to the back ?

    It's generally called a "long wing," though I think the British sometimes call it an "imperial brogue" or something like that.
     


  14. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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  15. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    Roger, Thanks for the pic! Yes, those J&Ms look sturdy. What exactly is the name of that style of wingtip, where the wing broguing actually runs the entire length of the shoe to the back ?
    That style is referred to as "longwing." You know, I've never seen a balmoral longwing, only bluchers. Teacher, you've seen more shoes than any 100 men--have you ever seen a balmoral longwing?
     


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