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J. Hilburn MTM shirt review - not perfect but I'm very happy - best overall fit of my life.

lalaland

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Someone on the J. Hilburn shirt thread asked if I had received my shirt yet - I just got it a few days ago so here's the review:

This is my first MTM item of clothing ever. I have a Thick as Thieves suit I haven't been fitted for yet, and an Indochino blazer in production - but haven't received it yet. I ordered a "pink luxury oxford" - here are the pics - then the review will follow the photos:















I went with J. Hilburn for my first MTM experience because of their unique hybrid off-line/on-line business model. After reading online MTM horror stories I didn't trust myself to do accurate measurements. J. Hilburn has an army of commissioned "style advisors" who act as independent sales agents and come to your home/office armed with measuring tapes, skills (hopefully), and fabric and shirt samples. After their first visit you never have to see them again if you don't want to - you can order online or over the phone. They only build one shirt on the first order because they expect you will tweak the measurements and go through a couple iterations before it's perfect - after that point they'll allow you to order more.

I got a mother/daughter team who are in business together - they each carefully measured me twice - a total of four measurements per body part. I showed them shirts I have already and what I like/don't like about each of them. We discussed how the shirt should fit, and went through the myriad options together. My SA's customer service and responsiveness via text/phone/e-mail is great.

They prefer to hand deliver the first shirt so that they can go over any changes which need to be made, fit issues, etc. But since I was going to be out of state they simply had the shirt shipped to my new location.

I ordered the second cheapest of the four fabric price levels - $109. It's called a "luxury oxford" in pink, medium weight. Detailed stats are not on the website as to thread count and weight. Perhaps my SA has that info but I haven't asked her for it. I'm very happy with the fabric and stitching quality - but I'm not an experienced shirt snob like many here. I do have some pricey OTR shirts from Eton, Dior Homme, YSL and Prada - and when I get home I'll do a comparison. The fabric is not as luxurious as the one shirt I have nearby - a $250 Eton twill. But for $109 I don't expect it to be. A comparison against the Eton with a higher price point J. Hilburn shirt would be more fair. The stitching of the Eton vs Hilburn looks about equal to my eye. The Eton buttons are definitely superior - beautiful mother of pearl. But again for less than half the price I'm not complaining about plastic buttons.

Fit is nearly dead-on. But the third button does pull against my chest as you can see in the photos - and I haven't even laundered it yet. I had it pressed before taking the photos but it hasn't been laundered. I would say it needs about 1/2 inch more fabric in the chest to make the fit perfect. This will have to be adjusted for the re-make I'm going to have them do. I don't know if the fault lies in: 1 - incorrect initial measurements, 2 - production error at factory, 3 - my lifting weights and eating big for a month after measuring and before receipt of shirt.

Other than that the sleeves feel perfect (may 1/4 inch short but I haven't decided yet), and the shirt follows the countours of my body more perfectly than any shirt I've ever had. It uses no darts - which I love - the pattern is just cut to taper at the sides. I love it.
The bottom billowing is due to my very low rise jeans with no belt.

I may have the sleeve diameter narrowed on the second iteration, and perhaps a bit more of a tapered cut in the waist. I like my Dior Homme shirt - it's a bit of a tighter overall fit than this Hilburn. And I will probably go with an extreme cutaway collar. But overall for my first MTM experience I'm in love - and this shirt fits more perfectly than any I've ever worn. I've never had the awesomeness of chest and waist fit - I have a 9.5" drop - before. It's like a miracle.

There is one fabric problem - it looks like some kind of abrasion at the factory:



I'm definitely going to order more from them.

I'll report back when I get the re-make.

If anyone has questions ask away.

I'm also eager to try Deo Veritas after reading a review of them - non-fused collars and what appear to be even more aggressive pricing for the same quality.

So far I'm an online-MTM convert and I'm definitely never buying an OTR dress shirt again. I didn't expect 100% perfection on the first iteration but this is darn close. To people who complain about going through a few re-makes until they get the perfect shirt - I say you are whiny bitches with unrealistic expectations. This service is awesome. My SA said to launder it a few times, then she's coming back to my house and we'll discuss what measurement changes to make and do the re-make. Amazing customer service in my opinion.
 
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hookem12387

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Cool, thanks. Also, in the close up the collar looks fairly soft, in the fit pic not so much. Which is it?
 

lalaland

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Um, I would say it's about as stiff as most dress shirts. I know that's not terribly helpful - but it has "heft." It is I assume a fused collar. Sorry I don't really have a point of reference for you.
 

Ivon

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I'm the poster who raised objections to the infomercial style customer testimonials and lack of an objective reviews in the other thread. Now that you posted pictures of what you commissioned, I'd thought I comment. Other than the flaw you pointed out, the fabric looks okay from what I see. The workmanship looks fine for the price, machine made and cleanly executed. Fit looked okay, but as a MTM shirt, it is a variable that depends on the customer and the person with the measuring tape.

The collar and cuffs look fine, but no pictures of the shoulder or back. Their quality control looks good. The shirt appears better than most designer department store brands, CK, Perry Ellis, etc. Now the relevant question is price/value. How does this shirt compare to a standard Brooks Brothers of house brand shirt from an upscale retailer like SFM or NM?

The premium is in the ability to customize. Buttons look extra cheap, but I'd wear it if I needed to. Btw, for reference, you should state that you have no affiliation, personal or private with Hilburn at the start. It's kinda standard in the analytical reports from third parties I end up reading for work.
 

themodestman

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Awesome detailed review! I've been looking for comparisons between these guys, Blank Label, Indochino, Proper Cloth and a handful of others. Actually thinking about doing a "battle of the MTMs" post on my blog. Could be kinda expensive, though... I'll post on SF if it happens.
 

Frankie22

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I'm the poster who raised objections to the infomercial style customer testimonials and lack of an objective reviews in the other thread. Now that you posted pictures of what you commissioned, I'd thought I comment. Other than the flaw you pointed out, the fabric looks okay from what I see. The workmanship looks fine for the price, machine made and cleanly executed. Fit looked okay, but as a MTM shirt, it is a variable that depends on the customer and the person with the measuring tape.
The collar and cuffs look fine, but no pictures of the shoulder or back. Their quality control looks good. The shirt appears better than most designer department store brands, CK, Perry Ellis, etc. Now the relevant question is price/value. How does this shirt compare to a standard Brooks Brothers of house brand shirt from an upscale retailer like SFM or NM?
The premium is in the ability to customize. Buttons look extra cheap, but I'd wear it if I needed to. Btw, for reference, you should state that you have no affiliation, personal or private with Hilburn at the start. It's kinda standard in the analytical reports from third parties I end up reading for work.
I, for one, think the poster did a great job. I feel you might be overly critical. It's a 110 dollar shirt (rolls eyes).

You act as is you are valuing the purchase of a billion dollar company. Oh hold on, let me do a market wide assessment on my 110 dollar shirt ; - )
 
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Shirtmaven

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Mother -daughter team??????
that sounds like a bad Appreciation premise...

shirt looks fine.

I am upset that the label says Monti of Italy. "Fabric woven in Italy" this fabric was woven in a state of the art facility in India!
 

Blackhood

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Great review and what looks like reasonable MTM Shirt. Will be ordering a few if they can do it in England.
 

Skipper9299

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I have a small correction. The fabrics are woven in Northern Italy by the finest mills. In the exact same mills as the highest price designers. The shirts are constructed in the same factories as the high end shirts also. They merely cut out all of the middle men with their hands in the pot. Because of that they are able to make the M2M custom shirt at a heavily reduced price. I have many of their shirts and I will be getting more. When it comes to the suits, I have seen side by side comparisons to $2,500 suits and it was no contest. The suits are even better quality and priced! Now that my advisor says they are doing formal tuxes and I saw the book. I am in line for that also. The only down side is that suit factory is closed for the month long holiday.

I know I sound like one of them a bit but that is only because I have done my research and have spent far too much money on stuff that just didn't fit. I have a big neck and fit build. Impossible to fit anywhere else with that kind of quality and fit.

Seriously though, I even buy my OTR stuff through the website. I like the model and I support it. So do most of the busy Financial Planners in my agency.

Good luck.
 

mopheus

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Thanks for the review. It was very helpful

How did the re-makes come out and are you still buying shirts from the?
 

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