J. Crew Ludlow vs. Rugby Newbury

[Charlesmbush]

Hello, I'm new to the forum here and I am looking into purchasing a second suit. My problem is one of fit. I am an extremely slim individual, (5'9" 125lbs.) and it is always difficult for me to find a suit jacket even close to my desired fit. (a 26" waist is not condusive to pants of both proper girth and length, of which I also have a hard time finding, with the closest fits usually at 28x32) Having said this, I bought a Rugby suit jacket a few months ago and found it to be near perfect in 36r. I bought it on the recommendation that Rugby produced some of the slightest suits out there, and this one was certainly far more fitting than anything else I've tried. Now I am on the hunt for another suit. I was considering this ludlow fit from J.Crew.

http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/suiting/allludlowsuits/PRDOVR~25269/25269.jsp

I know that Rugby and J.Crew are close to one another in quality, and I have tried on some of the latter's jackets, but I can only find them locally down to 38r. What I was wondering is how these two fits compare; through the shoulders, armholes, length, quality, etc. are all points of interest. If anyone can contribute any direct comparative experience, I would very much appreciate it.

(Also, if anyone can recommend a higher-quality (preferably full-canvassed) OTR suit line with a fit close to or as slim as RL Rugby, I would also be very interested.)

 

[Cahrin]

I have a JCrew jacket in a 36 and it fits like a 38. It's too big for me, and I'm not as skinny as you are.

 

[wj4]

I'm about your height except I'm 155 lbs, which is still pretty skinny, and J. Crew suits fit horribly baggy on me. This means it will be comically baggy on you as well.

I suggest you trying some of the forum folks, ie Kent Wang, Thick as Thieves, or Epaulet. They all offer high quality suits at decent prices.

 

[Charlesmbush]

Thanks guys, my size makes anything other than casual wear a problem to fit, especially suits. I'll try the brands mentioned, there are so many mentioned on other threads it's daunting to try and look at what each has to offer.

Any direct comparisons with Rugby for any other suiting line? Anyone?

 

[wj4]

I never had any J. Crew suits. I did have a few of their casual jackets and quality was crap. This was before I joined the forum and knew any better. The only things I buy from J. Crew are their 3rd party items, and some basic t shirts.

All of my suits are from Jason from Thick at Thieves. For $500-600 a suit, you get full canvased with functional sleeve buttons, great deal IMO.

Another favorite here is SuitSupply.

 

[curzon]

Check ehaberdasher (a sponsor) for its Benjamin and Caruso suits, at $500 and $700 respectively. A better value than either rugby or jcrew at the approx. price.

 

[Charlesmbush]

If I went with the Caruso suits (I know they were or are the maker of Rugby suits) would you imagine they would be especially slim, as Rugby is, or would I have to have them tailored for a more snug fit? I know you likely don't bother with Rugby, but if you had any experience with the Caruso or Benjamin suits, would you say they are cut slim?

 

[mymil]

Another high-quality, low-cost alternative: http://www.kentwang.com/about/suits/

$650 for a fully canvassed MTM suit from Kent Wang.

 

[lalaland]

Charlesmbush - I may have a "position" in a MTM Thick as Thieves available for sale at a discount to their regular price soon. I paid for a TAT suit several years ago and then never got around to being measured or having the suit produced. In the ensuing time period my chest expanded to a 43.5" - which is now outside the TAT limit of 42." I'm meeting for a fitment with Jason next week and if he says he can't make the suit for me to my chest size I'll be throwing it up for sale, since I don't think I can get my money back.

 

[Charlesmbush]

I will keep an eye out for any posts about the position, if I do not return any positive feedback from my OTR recommedations. This will only be my second suit as I said, and I am a bit intimidated by the MTM process.

 

[Charlesmbush]

Wow, Kent Wang selling suits down to 34R... thanks for the mention, I'm very interested in this one. Any quality testaments?

 

[wj4]

Not sure why you would be intimidated with MTM. Just make sure you take correct and accurate measurements.

Kent Wang's service is great. I've also bought a MTM shirt from him, along with shoes and pocket squares. You can look at his official thread for more info, but I believe he suggests buying a regular sized suit first off, ie 36S, 38R, and if revision is needed, just send the suit back and revisions will be made accordingly. I'm sure his stuff will fit you OTR. A size small shirt in ball brands, ie J. Crew, fits me usually quite baggy. A small in Kent Wang fits me really snug, to the point where I can't even button the buttons.

The greatest thing about MTM is it allows you to pick your preference, ie if you want a 3 button stance, or 2 button or 3 roll 2 or 1. Maybe you want a peak lapel and angled pockets as well.

 

[mymil]

Start reading here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/151480/kent-wang-affiliate-thread/750#post_5309027

Part of what is exceptional about the Kent Wang MTM suits (and shirts), as mentioned by wj4, is that they will send you a standard size (e.g. 34R) to try on with no expectation that you will keep it. Try it and send it back with your measurement tweaks and customization requests. For the same price as the standard sizes. I think it's pretty incredible.

 

[Charlesmbush]

That is pretty incredible, the more I read about Kent Wang and his policies, the more I believe that is my best bet. Having a jacket to try on , then recommend alterations is like a bespoke-MTM hybrid, and for well under a grand, it is certainly a steal. If the jackets truly are as slim as wj4 has said, I shouldn't even need many alterations.Thanks to everyone for the info.

 

[wj4]

I don't think you would be unhappy with Kent's service.

My chest measures exactly 37'' and I've never tried on a size small in any men's shirts before that was too tight until I tried Kent's so I'm sure it would be right around the OP's realm since he's 20-30 lbs less than I am at nearly the same height. (I'm not accounting for many factors of course).

I used to have a screwed up sleeping habit due to my former line of work and I couldn't believe that Kent would reply to my emails at random hours at times, ie 11PM, 2AM, etc.

RE: my shirt, I bought a size small and returned it to Kent. I already have good fitting shirts prior to Kent's service, but my local shirtmaker was getting senile and prices kept on climbing. $200 per shirt for a 2 ply was not reasonable for me. I basically told Kent what I wanted, ie "add 2 inches to sleeve length, add 3 inches to pit to pit, decrease waist by .5 inch, etc.

Also read Spoo's comments in regards to Kent Wang's suit. If it's good enough for Spoo, it's good enough for 99.9% of the members here.

I'm waiting for Kent to offer some vibrant fabrics before I try out his suits.

Good luck!