tweedydon
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IVY/TRAD GRAIL
THREE PIECE 3/2 SACK SUIT in DISTRICT CHECK
By HARRY BALLOT OF PRINCETON
THREE PIECE 3/2 SACK SUIT in DISTRICT CHECK
By HARRY BALLOT OF PRINCETON
I don't use the term "Grail" lightly, but if anything would qualify, a three-piece, 3/2 sack suit from Harry Ballot of Princeton would qualify--and I have one here, in a beautiful District Check!
Harry Ballot was one of the Big Four of Princeton's men's clothiers (for some reason, The Princeton Clothing Company never quite made the cut!) . Less stuffy than Langrock's, more Ivy than The English Shop, and less fashion conscious than Hilton (which, by the way, is the only one still to survive, which might indicate something!) Ballot's was a solidly Ivy store, catering to the men of Princeton, its alumni, and the well-heeled, respectable, professional denizens of Mercer County.
This suit is a wonderful example of Ballot's wares! Beautiful cut in a classic 3/2 sack with a lovely high roll (almost a 3/ 2-and-three-quarters roll, rather than a true 3/2), this has perfectly proportioned lapels with a wonderful lapel. It is half-canvassed, and half-lined, and features both a center vent and also the classic two-button cuffs. It also lacks its top front button--and this lack is intentional, for a close inspection of the cloth with a loupe shows that it never had one. This isn't that surprising--occasionally, customers of Ballot,s Langrock's, and the like would request the top button to be omitted, for two reasons. First, on a jacket with a very high lapel roll, like this one, the top button could spoil the elegant line of the lapel; second, if included a top button could sometimes lead to its impression being pressed into the outward side of the lapel by a careless press, and so eschewing the button avoided the problem. This is a wonderfully Ivy approach to things, combining both aesthetics and practicality in one!
There is no fabric content listed,but this suit is clearly wool. And the cloth is lovely, having both a terrific drape and a wonderful colourway: A District Check in russet and black, with a light-almond background and a Royal blue overcheck. This is a lovely, versatile colourway and pattern, and absolutely perfect for Spring!
The trousers are flat-fronted, of course, and have classic 1 3/4 " cuffs. The vest has all functional pockets, and all of its buttonholes are lovely and tight, with no pulling or running at all.
This suit was, of course, Union Made in the USA. I can't tell from the label if this was pre- or post 1962 (as it is sewn in in such a way as to obscure the existence or absence of the encircled "R" that would tell us), but judging by the cut and what I know of Ballot's labels I would say this is a late 1960's suit.... and one that is in excellent condition!
Oh yes--I also have the original wooden hanger than the original owner stored this one, and I'll include this--especially as it is perfect with its natural shoulders!
So, how much for this Grail of a suit? Well, it's hard to say, given that Palm Beach (!) three piece suits now seem to fetch in excess of $1, 200 on eBay! However, I'll use my usual rubric here, and ask what I, as a junior impoverished academic, would be delighted to pay... and then knock of another 10% for the initial asking price, with LOWER OFFERS STILL BEING VERY WELCOME!
So, how about $145, boxed and shipped in CONUS, or lower offer? International inquiries are also welcome, with shipping at cost.
Please PM with interest and offers!
Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30
Waist (laid flat): 16 1/2
Inseam: 31 3/4 (+3/4" to let down), with 1 3/4 cuff.
Vest width: 18 3/4
Vest length, tip to tip: 26 3/4
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