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Italian tailor made jacket - is it too long?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Jumme, Mar 14, 2019.

  1. Jumme

    Jumme Member

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    Hi guys,
    English is not my first language, please bear with me anything I dont understand, ok? :)

    Im a fairly slim guy, 1.80m / 76kg (5.9ft / 167lb).
    I normally wear size 38/48R. I have 10-12 jackets and suits, they're all 38/48R´s.

    Bought my second double breasted, italian tailor made jacket on ebay size 38/48, but alas, when it arrived, it was much longer than anticipated (didn't note hand position at the pictures, didn't measure another jacket and convert from inches - idiot!).
    I only had one double breasted blazer already, a Drago from Suit Supply. Which is, to be fair, quite short model.

    Took the new jacket too my tailor, asked if he could shorten a bit in the length, he immediately said "no its too long and the pockets will look odd, return it".

    Now, the only problem is not the total length, as its only a matter of.. 2 inches.
    But its like the whole front is lowered somehow; pockets, buttons, overlay (dont know the english word.. the closure). The sleeve length is exactly the same, measured!

    On the picture below, do mind that the dark one was already trimmed a bit off the back/ribs (more narrow), which I would also have to do with the new lighter one. My tailor always have to do that with every new jacket. That will make the bottom more "straight" as well.

    But what do you recon from the picture.. is it too long?! Should I return it?

    Billede 14-03-2019 21.22.27.jpg
     

  2. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    I would say the longer one is a more classic length and the other one is too short for you. However the longer one also has a lower button stance (below the narrowest point of the jacket) and the other one has a high button stance, so exaggerating the difference between them.
     

  3. Jumme

    Jumme Member

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    Thanks for replying. When you say "too short for me", how do you figure?
    Did you see the manufacturer link for the other one, its about sleeve length, that particular model.. :)

    Thanks, that actually helped a lot..
     

  4. BXpress

    BXpress Senior Member

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    Rule of thumb is that a jacket should fully cover the seat. Judging by your pictures, you look like you're not short. And if you are somewhat tall, then it's no big deal if its 1cm longer than the ideal length. Slightly too long is always better than slightly too short, especially if you are above 1.80m (>6ft). I see too short jackets every single day and people look like they waddling like a duck.
     

  5. Jumme

    Jumme Member

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    1482E390-0837-45CE-9F5B-21FD384F20E1.jpeg
    Thanks, big help. Tried to google rules of thumb, and didnt find any.
    I dont consider myself tall, but more like avarage.

    What exactly, is ‘the seat’?
    Tried google translate to Danish, that didnt make much sense..

    Im attaching hey another picture, does this look too long to you, if yes how much?
     

  6. suitsandstock

    suitsandstock New Member

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    I think it's too long personally.
     

  7. BXpress

    BXpress Senior Member

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    The butt. Or maybe i used the word "seat" incorrectly? Not a native English speaker either.

    It does look a bit too long from this perspective. Maybe something between 1-2cm shorter would be ideal but then i would say that your tailor is right. If you shorten it, the position of the pockets would indeed look unbalanced. Either keep the jacket as it is, or If it was expensive and you're not 100% comfortable with the look, then return it and go MTM.
     

  8. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    It looks about 1 inch too long. I'm not a tailor, but would reducing it by that much throw off the balance?
     

  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    There are a few rules of thumb for how long a jacket should be. The most commonly cited one, which was mentioned above, is that the jacket should be long enough to cover your seat (that is, your butt). The other is that it should fall somewhere between the first and second knuckle. And the third, which is the one I like best, is that it should roughly bisect you halfway between your jacket's collar and the floor. That one is harder to determine online because most people don't post outfit pictures. But it's the one that makes the most sense to me since this is about proportions.

    Ultimately, the length is just about a look -- whether something looks right to you. Double-breasteds can sometimes use a little shortening because, without the cutaway front you'd have on a single-breasted coat, the jacket can look visually "bottom heavy."

    That jacket looks too long to me, but I think the bigger problem is that the cloth looks a bit too suit-like to wear casually.
     

  10. BXpress

    BXpress Senior Member

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    That's 2.5cm which is a significant change.

    Not to contradict myself, just thought: If i had to shorten it, i would compromise and go for 1cm shorter tops, just to take the edge off it. This shouldn't throw it off balance.
     

  11. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    First I would decide if you really like the longer plaid jacket. It is such a different cut than the dark brown. The shoulder is stronger and the shape is different. The brown has a more relaxed look. The plaid has a different proportion due to the button position. Maybe the jacket is a 38/48 long and not a 38/48 R. Is the color as close to mustard as it looks in the online pictures?

    You don't have to have the jacket shortened to see the difference. If you have pins you can turn the jacket up and pin it your self. You could ask our tailor to baste the hem shorter without opening the hem. Start by shortening the jacket to the bottom of the horizontal line of the plaid.
    The dark brown jacket has besom pockets, no exposed flap. If you shorten the plaid jacket you can push the pocket flaps into the pocket and wear it as besom pockets. This will make the pocket look higher from the shorter hem. The dark brown jacket is too short. You want a length between the two jackets.
     

  12. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Excellent advice. @Despos and @jefferyd are the gold-standard bearers for advice on this forum.
     

  13. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Jumme,
    You are in Copenhagen. Mikkeller beer laekker smag!
     

  14. Jumme

    Jumme Member

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    Guys, Ive been sick a couple of days, but is now back from a second opinion from the maybe most esteemed tailor in my country. I normally never used him because his fairly expensive, but I had to have a second opinion!

    He suggested me letting him shorten it 3-4 cm (1.6 inch) for a horizontal cut. He's also gonna trim a bit off the sides (narrow).
    All in all Im very happy with this solution as I would be very sad to return the jacket to Italy.

    Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts, my tailor also mentioned this.
    Never the less, I very much like the combining of different looks, like dressing up with this jacket or dressing down with a pair of woolen pants. But I totally get your point.

    Yes, this was my initially thought, I very often push down the flaps of pockets because I like the cleaner look.

    The color is called "tan" and is between mustard and, say, scotch matured in cherry casks.

    Thank you so much, you guys. Will post a pic when the jacket is finished.
     

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