Italian Bespoke Tailor Cuts

[Slickman]

Would you say Rubinacci and Solito cut a more drapey and fuller suit, while Mina (Volpe), cuts a more trim and cleaner suit? What I mean to ask is, if we want a more fitted silhouette to go with Mina, and if we want more drape to go with Solito or Rubinacci?

Also does anybody know what dates Solito will be in NYC this month?

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Slickman

Would you say Rubinacci and Solito cut a more drapey and fuller suit, while Mina (Volpe), cuts a more trim and cleaner suit? What I mean to ask is, if we want a more fitted silhouette to go with Mina, and if we want more drape to go with Solito or Rubinacci?

Also does anybody know what dates Solito will be in NYC this month?

This generally seems to be the case.

 

[edmorel]

I will only say that Mina is longer repping Volpe, she has her own people. I have stuff from Volpe and post volpe and the fit is similar. I won't get into whether it is "fitted' or "drapey" but others can chime in. I will say that I can perform most if not all of my daily functions with the jacket on, buttoned, without any issues.

 

[Slickman]

Originally Posted by edmorel

I will only say that Mina is longer repping Volpe, she has her own people. I have stuff from Volpe and post volpe and the fit is similar. I won't get into whether it is "fitted' or "drapey" but others can chime in. I will say that I can perform most if not all of my daily functions with the jacket on, buttoned, without any issues.

Haha arite, because I have a fitting with her this week and hope everything comes out right. I guess the only way to know if a tailor is for you is to try them for yourself, however this can get costly with the abundance of tailor recommendations

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by edmorel

I will say that I can perform most if not all of my daily functions with the jacket on, buttoned, without any issues.

I don't think anybody would question that just based on whether a jacket has drape. It's the look that seems to be the most different. We have to yet to see anyone but Manton wear both Solito and Mina, but it is obvious in his case how the two tailors diverge, and it appears to fit with what we generally see on others who use one or the other. At the very least, it seems that Mina has a stronger attachment to a lean, clean fit than Luigi Solito, so client might have an easier nudging Luigi in that direction.

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by Slickman

Haha arite, because I have a fitting with her this week and hope everything comes out right. I guess the only way to know if a tailor is for you is to try them for yourself, however this can get costly with the abundance of tailor recommendations

you have discovered the fountain of youth.

 

[Manton]

Mina had to let my coat out three times and I still think it is too slim. It's just barely OK with no wallet. With the wallet, it's noticeably tight.

 

[Slickman]

Yea, I've been thinking to get a Navy DB made by Rubinacci after seeing some of Mafoofans pictures of his suits, but I don't know if I can cope with the cost if the suit doesn't come out the way I want it to.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Slickman

I guess the only way to know if a tailor is for you is to try them for yourself, however this can get costly with the abundance of tailor recommendations

Perhaps this is the case if you feel you must know before trying. But tailors, even of the same regional persuasion, often differ quite a bit in their styles. Given that you often making what is more or less a blind decision in other respects, understanding such differences can be very useful in guiding you where you'll be happiest.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Slickman

Yea, I've been thinking to get a Navy DB made by Rubinacci after seeing some of Mafoofans pictures of his suits, but I don't know if I can cope with the cost if the suit doesn't come out the way I want it to.

Just do what he does and send it back.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Slickman

Yea, I've been thinking to get a Navy DB made by Rubinacci after seeing some of Mafoofans pictures of his suits, but I don't know if I can cope with the cost if the suit doesn't come out the way I want it to.

It depends on what "the way [you] want" is. If you are hoping for very specific results that match exactly what you have pictures in your head, you are bound to be disappointed with bespoke regardless of who you use and how much they charge. The surest way to be happy with bespoke is to be open to pleasant surprises and excellent, if not perfect, results.

So, to my mind, the best tailors are not the ones that make you exactly what you expect, but the ones that do objectively excellent work and try hard to get it right for their clients. My personal experience with Rubinacci is that they certainly do the latter.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Manton

Just do what he does and send it back.

What? It's not like my tailor is A&S.

 

[Slickman]

Do you know how often Rubinacci visits NYC or when his next visit is? Seeing Manton's DB by Solito provides quite a cheaper yet equally great result wouldn't you say?

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Slickman

Do you know how often Rubinacci visits NYC or when his next visit is? Seeing Manton's DB by Solito provides quite a cheaper yet equally great result wouldn't you say?

I think the best way to do Rubinacci is to go to Naples so that you can have Luca or Mariano there alongside your tailor. You can do like I did and just take advantage of your next vacation.

Solito is great, but different. Manton thinks the differences are marginal--and I'd have to agree that they are in the grand scheme. However, there are differences. If they don't matter to you, then I think it's hard to pass-up the savings Solito offers.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

What? It's not like my tailor is A&S.

I have to admit, Rubinacci is the first (and still only) tailor I have ever heard from who will recut fronts even when they didn't make any mistakes but just because the customer changed his mind.