It Will Be Cold Soon - Let's Talk Coats

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by Toiletduck

They sell camel meat in the city where I'm working right now in China.

What does camel taste like?

 

[Lamo]

chicken?

 

[Toiletduck]

Not sure actually... My colleagues told me not to try it, very tough and dry meat apparently. There were all this other fun stuff though

Top to bottom Cicada Centipede Scorpion - Seahorse Starfish

 

[Britalian]

Saw some of the Zara stuff this weekend. Ok for fashion fix and a not-too-substantial one at that. The material would be OK, IMHO, for a light winter, yet still need a bit of layering underneath.

 

[Jared]

There's been a fair amount written about slim fitting suits but not coats and I was hoping you guys could discuss the concept.

Does it make sense to look for slim coats, or is it reasonable to cover a fashionable suit in a sack? Is a coat slimmed as thoroughly as a suit through armholes, arm width, etc., or will having your tailor take the waist in turn a sack coat into a slim coat? How much difference in fit is there between, say, coats from BR, Canali Milano, and RLPL?

Thanks for your 2 cents.

 

[cpac]

My own philosophy on overcoats is as follows:

As an "over" coat, it's going over several layers of other clothing. As a result, it's never going to be as fitted as a suit; nor should it be. I wouldn't ever get one so fitted that I could only wear certain clothing underneath - I like to wear mine both over suits, and over jeans with a bulky sweater.

As for construction, overcoats follow the same basic pattern as suits - full canvas hand-work is the best, all the way down.

Here's where my philosophy becomes contradictory though: Because overcoats aren't as fitted, you can cheat on the fitting process (or just go OTR) and still look quite good, and so you should therefore save your money for a place (suit, shoes) where it will make more of a difference. On the other hand, a good overcoat can last you 10, 15, or 20 years, and during the winter may be something that sees daily wear. For these reasons, it's worth spending a bit more on an overcoat.

So where does that leave me?

Well my 10 year old, but fantastic OTR overcoat is on its last legs (if it's still standing at all). So now I have to choose whether to find a bargain somewhere, or pay a bit more for a M2M one from Mr. Ned, or pay a LOT more and find something that's full canvass and hand-made with the idea of it lasting 20 years.

Not sure if any of that helped, but it is what it is....

 

[kbuzz]

Originally Posted by Jared

There's been a fair amount written about slim fitting suits but not coats and I was hoping you guys could discuss the concept. Does it make sense to look for slim coats, or is it reasonable to cover a fashionable suit in a sack? Is a coat slimmed as thoroughly as a suit through armholes, arm width, etc., or will having your tailor take the waist in turn a sack coat into a slim coat? How much difference in fit is there between, say, coats from BR, Canali Milano, and RLPL? Thanks for your 2 cents.
Ive been facing the same problem. Ive had a great deal of difficulty finding an otr slimmer fitting overcoat in nyc. So far you have the usual suspects from the dept. stores...alll with raglan sleeves and that myseterious blend of 90 wool 10 cashmere....they all look and fit like a bb oxford..SACK On the higher end PS has a great coat that even comes in a 41L my size...the cashmere vicuna version is 3K however. I have not tried on the 14oo version. Rothmans in Union Square and a nicer HF coat at about 1K in chashere..nicely styled but a bit bulky and 40 L too slim and the 42 too large...a nice tweener though. So like the others posted above,,,,do we go with a mr. ned/chan type ....or bit the bullet on something more expensive. Its an odd delimma. I wonder what the average italian does. Surely they are slim but dont spend 2k on an otr overcoat

 

[heavyd]

Originally Posted by Spencer Young

Having recently moved to Chicago, and hearing about Chicago winters, I've begun searching for a coat that can stand the cold (and test of time). I've been looking around for a solid wool 3/4 length coat to wear to work/play when the overcoat is a bit too formal, but there seems to be a huge gap between the $300-400 range and the $1200+ range; I can't seem to find anything in the middle. I've found an amazingly gorgeous coat at Burberry (no patterning/branding, thankfully) but the price is above what I planned ($1500). Has anyone had any experience with wool coats that have a nice, tailored, fit to them for under this price range? I've done the mandatory searching on STP/Yoox but yet to find anything worthwhile. Thoughts?


Fellow Chicagoan, I picked up this: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/pro...opcoat-For-Men

Using this 20% discount code for ~$475 "49407"

 

[maxnharry]

I just received the Tyrwhitt Covert Coat and had a few observations:

1. It is well-sewn and made of English fabric in the Czech Republic
2. It has a very traditional shape and fits well
3. My issue is that the fabric is very thin. It seems more like a suit jacket and not like an overcoat. Are they all like that or is it particular to the Tyrwhitt?

 

[heavyd]

Originally Posted by maxnharry

I just received the Tyrwhitt Covert Coat and had a few observations:

1. It is well-sewn and made of English fabric in the Czech Republic
2. It has a very traditional shape and fits well
3. My issue is that the fabric is very thin. It seems more like a suit jacket and not like an overcoat. Are they all like that or is it particular to the Tyrwhitt?


cheap material could be one reason. that company is good at providing a lot of style and little substance.

 

[ATM]

Aren't covert coats supposed to be thinner than the typical overcoat?

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by ATM

Aren't covert coats supposed to be thinner than the typical overcoat?

Yes - this coat is supposed to be thin and comfortably sit on top of a suit jacket. I have the CT one and the thickness of the wool is totally normal for this type of coat

 

[johnapril]

Dolce and Gabbana have fitted overcoats but you'll pay both in dollars and potentially fused elements.

 

[dkzzzz]

I am looking for slimmer fitting overcoat/winter coat. I currently have Holt Renfrew and Club Monaco from 5 years ago. Both are very slim fitting with small armholes which looks good, but doesn't allow for substantial layering.

I was very impressed with quality of fabric and detailing of Cole Haan coats ( working sleeves with 4 buttons, leather detailing on b8uttonholes and pockets, leather lining under collars etc.) Also coats were thick, but surprisingly soft and light (great drape).
I saw them at Filenes' Basement's sample sale. Unfortunately they were all Medium size: 40R+
I wish I could find Cole Haan coat that I saw in grey/black herringbone. It was perfect for work or weekend.
Any idea guys which stores usually carry Cole Haan outerwear?
I know Macy's is not one of them.

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by dkzzzz

Any idea guys which stores usually carry Cole Haan outerwear?
I know Macy's is not one of them.

STP