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Issues with shoulder cuts on shirts, jackets, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lupin23rd, Sep 24, 2004.

  1. lupin23rd

    lupin23rd Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, First post so bear with me for a few minutes while I make an ass of myself [​IMG] Over the last year or so I've tried on numerous shirts and jackets, and with a good size of them, I've noticed some issues with the shoulders, at least when attempting to make certain movements in them. When I try to raise my arms parallel to my shoulders, I've noticed some things that don't seem right but I'm not sure what to make of them. In some cases, I have a bit of material bunching up at the shoulders, which looks kind of funny but is not really too bad in most cases. This seems to be the issue with a couple dress shirts I tried. For some others it's just hard to raise my arms up to being parallel with my shoulders, I've noticed this with a few t-shirts by DSquared2 and Just Cavali that I liked. Moving up two sizes made the shirts obviously too big everywhere else, and the issue with the shoulders being cut too "early" was still there. (Bear in mind I'm not even 100% sure of terminology here) Lastly with a couple jackets, it's a little difficult to raise the arm although I can do it, however, the arm is not parallel to the shoulder - there is kind of a drop at the shoulder and then the arm sticks out. Most of the stuff I liked but felt too uncomfortable in to buy, or just went ahead and bought them anyway because I liked them so much. However I'd like to know whether this is simply an issue I'll have to live with or whether these shirts/jackets are simply the wrong size (I'm guessing too big) or wrong cut for my body type. I'm actually a pretty small guy so I don't see how I could be too big for those fitted t-shirts I don't seem to find comfortable, but whatever. Part of the reason I'm asking is I want to know whether I should be able to raise my arms up parallel to my shoulders with no visible issues or discomfort while wearing a suit jacket. At least I don't want my suit to look all messed up while drinking a cocktail at some fancy club while chatting up the ladies, eh? [​IMG] Of course I've been told by a few people while trying some things on, why would you ever do that? Maybe it's just the fitted style of some of these things. Hopefully someone here can understand what I'm talking about despite my terminology and let me know whether I'm dealing with totally incorrect sizes or what not. Thanks, mike
     


  2. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Distinguished Member

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    well, this question deserves an answer, but i don't feel fully qualified to do it. but why should that stop me. regarding the shoulder-bunching, it's my understanding that a well-fitting jacket should feel comfortable and allow for a range of motion - i have heard someone say it should feel like a sweater. the key - if i understand correctly - is the way the sleeve attaches to the torso, the "arm's eye" i think is what it's called. armhole if you're more anglo-saxon like me. it appears that many RTW jackets are cut with an armhole that extends way too far down, thus causing the whole jacket to deform when the arm is raised more than just a few degrees. it should be fairly close-fitting around the wearer's armpit - just how close, i leave to the experts because that's the extent of my knowledge. hope that helps. /andrew ***edit: PS - welcome to the forum [​IMG]
     


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