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Issuee with cordovan shell

mg428

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Guys I need to know something about cordovan shell shoes. I am considering to buy this type of shoe however some images I saw on some threads discouraged me. In one of these threads, a SF member very generously shared some images of his cordovan and calfskin shoes and made a very nice comparison. I greatly benefited from this thread. The link is below: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ear#post331145 The thing is that I noticed something not mentioned in this thread-- the deeper (and may be broader) wrinkles on the cordovan as opposed to calfskin. Later on I found another thread in which such wrinkles are, IMHO, very obviously deeper and broader as opposed to calfskin. The link is below: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=53401 Nonetheless, as far as I see, I must admit that the wrinkles are less deeper and broader in the Alden loafer in the first thread than those of the Florsheim and AE wingtip cordovans in the second thread. Shortly, my questions are: 1) Would you say that wrinkles on cordovan shells will be ALWAYS deeper and broader than on calfskin shoes? (Please do not discuss the micro-creases that form along and within the wrinkles of a calfskin shoe. I know that these do nor form on cordovans) 2) If you say yes to quesion no. 1, then I was wondering which company's cordovan would have as less wrinkles as possible in term of deepness and broadness? 3) Would those wrinkles on cordovans disappear significantly while you are wearing the shoes? 4) If deep and broad wrinkles are an inevitable feature of a cordovan shell, what would you recommend to me? Because I am quite discouraged by those images. And if I cannot do anything for those deep wrinkles and if they do not disappear significantly during the time I wear them, then I would not want to buy them. On the other hand I really liked other characteristics of cordovans. So I will appreciate to hear your comments as to how I can overcome such wrinkles. Thanks so much! mg428
 

Holdfast

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Cordovan naturally forms larger "waves" or "ripples" rather than the finer "wrinkles and creases" associated with calfskin.

Aficianados of the material love those ripples. But not everyone shares that appreciation and there's no right or wrong here, it's about personal aesthetic taste. If the ripples don't do it for you, stay with calfskin. If you see beauty in the undulations, try cordovan.
 

kngrimm

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This should help you decide real quick... those deep waves do not disappear just because your feet are inside the shoe.

I have cordovan... trust me. They are, however, incredible workhorse shoes...

The only thing you can hope for is to purchase a new pair ($450-600) and try and crease them in a pleasing manner. If you screw up, you have expensive workhorse shoes : )
 

tonup277

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wrinkles shminkles - get them, you won't be disappointed!
 

datasupa

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I also do not like those ripples, which is why I don't buy cordo. It's perfectly OK to stick with calfskin if that's what you like.
 

mg428

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Thanks guys I really appreciate your help.

After creating the thread I decided to see which shoes I have in my collection. Then I came across with a shoe that I totally forgot! I highly suspect that this is cordovan. Because;

- It has that wavy wrinkles
- I had done pretty bad maintenance on the shoe in the past. I should not have applied cream, but I did. I also applied wax, which was correct, but I applied frequently. Due to this bad maintenance I think I can see all the bad results given on alden of carmel's website. It says:

"The most common mistake men make in caring for their cordovan shoes is using too much polish, and polishing the shoes too often. The excess polish creates a layer of build-up which has three negative effects: 1) it covers the natural beauty of the leather, 2) it creates a grainy texture in the creases of the shoes, 3) and the build-up of polish scuffs easily and attracts dust"

I think all of these, unfortunately, exist for my shoe.

There is one thing though which makes me think that may be my shoe is not cordovan. Because I see those micro-creases as described on http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ear#post331145. However, I also think that may be what I see is the above-mentioned "grainy texture" mentioned on alden of carmel's website.

I am posting some photos of the shoe. Per the images,

1) Do you think this is cordovan?
2) If yes, what can I do to revive the natural cordovan look and texture, especially those micro-creases/grainy texture? Can I do it by myself or would I require professional service? I know Allen Edmons repairs shoes for instance. Can they take care of it?

Thanks again in advance.
 

mg428

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For the record...

You may want to ask the brand of the shoe. I ensure there is no way you would know it. It is not reputable...
 

mg428

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Thanks for the quick reply.

Could you please elaborate as to i) why you think that it is not shell cordovan ii) what type of leather upper is used for this particular shoe, in your opinion?

Thanks.
 

tonup277

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run for the hills...it's corrected grain!!!
eek.gif
 

billiebob

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Originally Posted by mg428
Thanks for the quick reply.

Could you please elaborate as to i) why you think that it is not shell cordovan ii) what type of leather upper is used for this particular shoe, in your opinion?

Thanks.



The fine ripples instantly tell us it is not shell cordovan. It does look like corrected grain because those fine ripples are so pronounced.

OP: Yes, cordovan has broad, deep creases. I have 4 pairs of cordos from 3 different makers and they all have creased badly. One pair of Grensons creased in a really terrible way. Instead of a broad horizontal crease, the cordovan scrunches up like an accordion. Maybe I should have tried to train it better during break in.

I suggest buying cordos anyway. The depth of color is worth the more casual look.
 

JayJay

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I like shell shoes and have many pairs of them. The deep creases are part of the character of shell.
 

JayJay

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Originally Posted by soaped
I feel that there are certain styles of shoes that pair very well with shell: (sorry for the massive bandwidth hog photos) chukka http://www.picturethreads.com/temp/achu1.jpg boot http://www.picturethreads.com/temp/alb1.jpg wingtip blucher http://www.picturethreads.com/temp/prld1.jpg and norwegian split toe http://www.picturethreads.com/temp/anst1.jpg
I agree. I like them better as time goes by and they become very well worn and develop a nice patina.
 

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