Isaia vs Zegna

[fabricateurialist]

What's strange about both Zegna and Isaia, is that you cannot guarantee how the suit will fit from its sizing and type. Not all Isaias of the same size and body-type fit alike. Zegna is somewhat more standardized, but I've also noted a variation in length of Zegna jackets especially.

Not all of them. Microsphere seems durable. I can't stand high performance. Trofeo is my favorite, but its not that robust, and Trofeo 600 is thin and relatively fragile. All Season Twill is just ok. I'm sure there are many others I haven't tried.

Totally unaware of the microsphere fabrics - what are the characteristics ?

I have a few high-performance, and two "Packaway", and love them, admittedly I was skeptical at the Packaway because the first few seasons the fabric was very weft very openly and very dry, but they are holding up quite well and serve their purpose as carry-on sized suits that are less sensitive to wrinkles

The Multiseason is as durable as the Trofeo in my experience, whereas the flannels just ain't it

Anecdotal, to confirm your point, depending on the country I bought Zegna RTW in, measurements were slightly different, e.g. sleeve or jacket length

 

[Professor Χάος]

Totally unaware of the microsphere fabrics - what are the characteristics ?

I have a few high-performance, and two "Packaway", and love them, admittedly I was skeptical at the Packaway because the first few seasons the fabric was very weft very openly and very dry, but they are holding up quite well and serve their purpose as carry-on sized suits that are less sensitive to wrinkles

The Multiseason is as durable as the Trofeo in my experience, whereas the flannels just ain't it

Anecdotal, to confirm your point, depending on the country I bought Zegna RTW in, measurements were slightly different, e.g. sleeve or jacket length

I've never heard of "packaway". Is that a fabric type?

My oldest Zegna suit is made from microsphere fabric. I've put it through hell, and it still looks great.

Trofeo and its derivatives are relatively fragile, but its butter-soft and suits made from this fabric conform to the wearer's body shape over time. I try to take care of my suits so I haven't had much trouble with my Trofeo suits.

Here's a description of microsphere:

MICRONSPHERE – This treatment ensures long-lasting anti-stain performance. It offers a revolutionary treatment guaranteeing absolute resistance to stains by preventing dirt from penetrating in depth, without affecting the natural softness of the yarn. Using nano-technology, the fabric does not absorb extraneous particles. This high-performance fabric is made with 100 percent natural all-season wool that delivers breathability and comfort.

 

[smittycl]

I have several Zegna suits and sport coats but only suit in High Performance. It's a great travel/summer suit and had held up well over the years. I consigned a few Isaia sport coats as I just wasn't wearing the. Have one Isaia suit left, a dark navy three-piece with a very faint graph check. Fabric is a light flannel and is a cooler weather favorite.

 

[fabricateurialist]

I've never heard of "packaway". Is that a fabric type?

My oldest Zegna suit is made from microsphere fabric. I've put it through hell, and it still looks great.

Trofeo and its derivatives are relatively fragile, but its butter-soft and suits made from this fabric conform to the wearer's body shape over time. I try to take care of my suits so I haven't had much trouble with my Trofeo suits.

Here's a description of microsphere:

MICRONSPHERE – This treatment ensures long-lasting anti-stain performance. It offers a revolutionary treatment guaranteeing absolute resistance to stains by preventing dirt from penetrating in depth, without affecting the natural softness of the yarn. Using nano-technology, the fabric does not absorb extraneous particles. This high-performance fabric is made with 100 percent natural all-season wool that delivers breathability and comfort.

Packaway is an entire product, an evolution of the high-performance range, but combined with a particularly light constructed jacket (its own pattern) and trousers that feature an elastic waistband, whether in RTW or MTM, it also comes in a dedicated travel pouch - similar to packing cubes



now that you mentioned it, I do remember the microsphere, did the nano-coating last over time ?

 

[Professor Χάος]

Packaway is an entire product, an evolution of the high-performance range, but combined with a particularly light constructed jacket (its own pattern) and trousers that feature an elastic waistband, whether in RTW or MTM, it also comes in a dedicated travel pouch - similar to packing cubes



now that you mentioned it, I do remember the microsphere, did the nano-coating last over time ?

Right...I've heard of the packaway, but I wasn't familiar with the name. An elastic waistband? That's all the rage now. I saw a $10,000 Kiton with a waistband and threads that looked like a pair of sweatpants. I couldn't wear that.

Microsphere is very durable. Its my oldest suit and has been through hell, washed with water and detergent...I wore it in horrible conditions, and it still looks great.

 

[fabricateurialist]

Right...I've heard of the packaway, but I wasn't familiar with the name. An elastic waistband? That's all the rage now. I saw a $10,000 Kiton with a waistband and threads that looked like a pair of sweatpants. I couldn't wear that.

Microsphere is very durable. Its my oldest suit and has been through hell, washed with water and detergent...I wore it in horrible conditions, and it still looks great.

At first, I was quite opposed to the elastic waistband too and had them sew belt loops over it from the excess fabric of the altered trousers - (this is probably going to cause a lot of neck hair to stand up) and since the band is not visible in the front, it works quite well regardless of my alteration to it

I didn't add the belt loops to my second one

Is it traditional/conservative etc. ? No. Does it serve a purpose and add value to the concept of a highly comfortable and portable suit ? Yes.

It ultimately led me to order a second pair of trousers as drawstrings with every suit from that point onwards

 

[Professor Χάος]

At first, I was quite opposed to the elastic waistband too and had them sew belt loops over it from the excess fabric of the altered trousers - (this is probably going to cause a lot of neck hair to stand up) and since the band is not visible in the front, it works quite well regardless of my alteration to it

I didn't add the belt loops to my second one

Is it traditional/conservative etc. ? No. Does it serve a purpose and add value to the concept of a highly comfortable and portable suit ? Yes.

It ultimately led me to order a second pair of trousers as drawstrings with every suit from that point onwards

Sorry, but I didn't quite understand this statement:

It ultimately led me to order a second pair of trousers as drawstrings with every suit from that point onwards

Do you actually order a 2nd pair of pants with drawstrings for every suit you buy? How many manufacturers offer this option? Perhaps you're jesting?

More generally: wear what you like. I've posted some jackets on this forum that some members didn't like. I like them, and believe that I have good taste. Women like them. Who cares about anything else?

 

[Professor Χάος]

I've been wondering for years what the next big trend in men's suits would be? The slim-fit suit with a shortened jacket and ultra-high rise pants has run its course (I hope), and men's fashion is now dominated by casual clothing. Perhaps a casual suit is next: Baggier jackets and pants with drawstrings, suits with patch pockets, even for the chest pockets? No ties? collarless shirts?

I think I'll stick to classical suits, although the I prefer trimmer modern silhouettes.

 

[fabricateurialist]

Sorry, but I didn't quite understand this statement:

Do you actually order a 2nd pair of pants with drawstrings for every suit you buy? How many manufacturers offer this option? Perhaps you're jesting?

More generally: wear what you like. I've posted some jackets on this forum that some members didn't like. I like them, and believe that I have good taste. Women like them. Who cares about anything else?

I hear you regarding style and wearing what you want

I wasn't kidding and started getting a second pair as drawstring trousers for the suits that aren't occasion specific like a tux or a linen summer suit - keeping in mind many business trips in Europe can be accomplished within one day, meaning slightly more comfortable trousers for a day of running around airports, meeting rooms, and cities serve a purpose - for me personally

FWIW, one trend report for FW24/25 highlighted the return of traditional tailoring on a broader scale, with more classic silhouettes (wider, not as trim), following the casual/workwear period we're still in

 

[Professor Χάος]

I hear you regarding style and wearing what you want

I wasn't kidding and started getting a second pair as drawstring trousers for the suits that aren't occasion specific like a tux or a linen summer suit - keeping in mind many business trips in Europe can be accomplished within one day, meaning slightly more comfortable trousers for a day of running around airports, meeting rooms, and cities serve a purpose - for me personally

FWIW, one trend report for FW24/25 highlighted the return of traditional tailoring on a broader scale, with more classic silhouettes (wider, not as trim), following the casual/workwear period we're still in

I can't stand low rise pants, which you have to constantly pull up to keep them from falling off. hahaha. I travel a lot as well, and its hard to keep clothes in excellent condition. I'm not sure I can adopt pants with drawstrings, but if it works for you...great.

 

[Aquafortis]

I've been wondering for years what the next big trend in men's suits would be? The slim-fit suit with a shortened jacket and ultra-high rise pants has run its course (I hope), and men's fashion is now dominated by casual clothing. Perhaps a casual suit is next: Baggier jackets and pants with drawstrings, suits with patch pockets, even for the chest pockets? No ties? collarless shirts?

I think I'll stick to classical suits, although the I prefer trimmer modern silhouettes.

I think Canali has already tried to peg the next thing: behold, The Shacket.

It's amusing, sort of, that this concept is absolutely nothing new at all. In fact, Zegna featured this exact concept in the mid 1990s with their Soft line, albeit in a classier way IMHO:

"Seven Days - one Jacket. The watchword is freedom: wearing a jacket without feeling constricted, without being aware of any kind of limitation. The jackets in the Soft collection owe their success both to careful develpment of the fabrics (light, pleasing to the touch), as well as to the construction of the jacket itself (an entirely new approach to making a jacket). The result is a completely different sensation - the utmost comfort without sacrificing the elegance of a classic garment. With its origins in the American idea of "dressing down Fridays" - informal wear at the office before the weekend - the Soft jacket has become an international necessity." (Zegna Il Punto Magazine, January-June 1996.)

 

[Professor Χάος]

I think Canali has already tried to peg the next thing: behold, The Shacket.

It's amusing, sort of, that this concept is absolutely nothing new at all. In fact, Zegna featured this exact concept in the mid 1990s with their Soft line, albeit in a classier way IMHO:

"Seven Days - one Jacket. The watchword is freedom: wearing a jacket without feeling constricted, without being aware of any kind of limitation. The jackets in the Soft collection owe their success both to careful develpment of the fabrics (light, pleasing to the touch), as well as to the construction of the jacket itself (an entirely new approach to making a jacket). The result is a completely different sensation - the utmost comfort without sacrificing the elegance of a classic garment. With its origins in the American idea of "dressing down Fridays" - informal wear at the office before the weekend - the Soft jacket has become an international necessity." (Zegna Il Punto Magazine, January-June 1996.)

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I believe these are called "safari suits" in Africa. They come in jacket and full suit form.

 

[Professor Χάος]

I'm searching for wool-linen-silk or just wool-linen mix suits. I'm not sure about 100% linen or cotton, because they tend to wrinkle terribly. But 3-4 wool-linen mix suits would be welcome in my wardrobe. I only have one: a Tom Ford wool-linen-silk Spencer. Its quite nice.

I tend to eschew sports coats. For me, a sports coat is a suit missing its pants. ha ha.

 

[Professor Χάος]

Safari suits. I can't see myself wearing one of these, unless I ever visit Nairobi or Kinshasa.

 

[fabricateurialist]

that's workwear - overshirts, shirt jackets ("shackets"), and chore jackets

That also brought back Safari and Teba jackets as a more casual option instead of sport coats

most of the Italian brands have been leaning heavily toward this as a result of the pandemic

we're quite a bit into this trend already, one indicator for being on the tail-end of it being that Selfridges has just significantly expanded its tailoring department, another one is that fabrics for next year are focused more on tailoring than leisurewear