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Isaia suits' shoulder sizes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by FCS, Feb 6, 2004.

  1. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    Location:
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    I'm looking at some 44R and they seem to have 19" shoulder. Isn't most 44 usually have 20"-20.5" shoulder?

    Chuck, what's your comment again regarding the relationship between shoulder size and tag size? I remember reading that somewhere but I can't find it.

    EDIT: are they somehow cut differently to accomodate, like deeper armholes something like that?

    Many thanks,
    Ferry
     
  2. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    FC - Isaia and some of the better ones tend to run narrow due to the way the armhole is cut - the sleeve is larger than the armhole (ditto Oxxford).

    On the mass-production suits the sleeve and shoulder opening are identical - easy sewing. Hence the 'pucker' of the Neapolitan shoulder.

    I'm a beefy shouldered 44 and Isaia fits me nicely - In the cookie cutter mass production lines the shoulder runs half the tag size, give or take 0.5. Armani tends to be an inch or two wider, Oxxford an inch or two smaller - it can confuse.

    My suggestion - write to the seller and let them know you measured and are slightly concerned about the shoulder though you realize that some of the better suits run narrower - ask if they will do a refund if it will not work. A good seller will work with you.

    PS> Isaia is a personal favorite of mine, beautiful lines/drape and some wonderful fabrics. The nicest suit I have sold on sheer looks was a charcoal windowpaned 100% cashmere isaia - worth killing for.
     
  3. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    Chuck, as I mentioned on Andy's forum, a 44 Kiton with a 20.25" shoulder seems to fit me ok, while a 42 Kiton with a 19.5" shoulder doesn't (at least according to the salesperson). Do you think a 19" Isaia shoulder would do?

    Are there many variances between the cut of these Neapolitan makers, btw? To my untrained eyes, I just notice that Kiton is cut more fuller.
     
  4. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Keep in mind also, that department stores that carry Kiton, Isaia, etc., (ie;"Kiton made for Saks 5th, Barney's, Bergdorf", etc) have slightly different shoulder widths. I believe naturlaut had a post about this either on here or on the modernman forum. Generally neapolitan suits made for Bergdorf Goodman are slightly narrower than their counterparts at NM, Barney's, etc, if memory serves correct.
     
  5. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    Hey FC - AHarris mentioned that Isaia had narrowed their shoulder, hadn't encountered that yet.

    My suggestion would be to see what the seller will do with regard to returns if it does not work. A great deal on the Isaia might be worth risking you paying for shiping if you need to return it to the seller - you can ask.

    Chuck
     
  6. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    i once tried on an isaiah and it had the narrowest shoulders of any size 40 suit i've ever seen. i'm guessing it was 18". coupled with a lack of padding and very high armholes, it was a perfect fit. i loved it.
     

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