Isaia MTM vs. Rizzo Bespoke

[CunningSmeagol]

I need a nice solid navy suit, which I've decided I cannot get at discount.

Barney's in Boston is doing Isaia MTM for same price as RTW (roughly $2800) in March. I'm a slightly tough fit (big shoulders, small waist, medium hips), and their Stewart model fits me great with minor alterations.

My alternative is Joe at Rizzo (in the same price range) but I've never seen the fit of one of his garments.

Thoughts on Isaia MTM?

 

[Gus]

You will get an excellent suit from Isaia MTM. I have several. They have a variety of shoulder treatments that IMO make a big difference in the final look of the garment. Be sure to try a jacket on and find a shoulder that you really like. If you get the shoulder right, I'm sure you will be delighted with the rest of the garment.

I have no experience with Rizzo

 

[horton]

I have a few pieces from Rizzo. Joe is a nice guy and a dying breed. I like going to him in part knowing that there aren't many alternatives after him (There's an English guy on Federal street that I walk by everyday but have already forgotten the name of the place. I spoke to him briefly. He might be worth putting on radar too.)

Joe's suit is very different than an Isaia. His style is more Milanese (thing Zegna or Barbera). You can get a full custom suit for that price or less from fabulous fabric (e.g., Lesser). The arm holes won't be as high, and the suit won't be as soft as Isaia. The shoulders will be softer than a roman style (e.g., Brioni) but Joe's suits will evoke some thoughts of Brioni too.

You'll get three fittings, and there are certain things I think he does a good job of. The length and button stance will be spot on. He'll rotate the sleeves to fit your body very well. The suit will have clean shoulders and chest. He also does a great job with trousers. He does a very basic suit. He'll push you to choose a two button jacket but the v won't be very low (will be lower than a 3button). It works and looks better than expected. If you like working button holes, his are great and they're done by hand (not machine as Louis Boston does).

If you have more questions feel free to pm

 

[jamesbond]

Horton is spot on!

I myself have a number of pieces from Rizzo, hes actually making me a solid Navy suit from an 11.5 oz? Lesser fabric right now.

Great price for the quality but as far as styling and fit goes Horton described him perfectly! I've been doing alot of RL made to measure recently as it gives me the styling i want, just not the quality and fit that i get from Joe.

I might be able to take a quick picture of one of my Rizzo pieces and post it later.

pretty horrible quality pic but gives you an idea of his style.

Hand Sewn button holes

Lapel pick stitching

Underneath lapel facing, hand stitched.

Certaintly not as much handwork as Borrelli but he does a good job of hitting the necessary seams and locations.

 

[CunningSmeagol]

^^^^Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is the first I've seen of Rizzo on a person. While it looks to be very well done, it's not the aesthetic I'm after. Maybe I've spent too much time looking at the neapolitan stuff on this forum, but I've come to expect a certain amount of wrinkles and 'imperfection'. The above might be too business-like for me with the clean shoulder and closed quarters.

On the other hand, it's a shape I've not tried. I'll take some pics of my stuff this weekend and do some hard thinking.

pocketsquareguy, horton, JB, thank you very much for your time and input.

 

[jamesbond]

Its definitly not the most modern Silhouette but it is definitly classic in style as hes made suits for one of the Kennedy's and makes some of John Kerry's suits. Im young myself and prefer a more modern look but i cant help but mix in some of his stuff at the price he charges. I love my Borrellis and the soft shoulders of RL blue label but theres something about contributing to a dying art and also having that "made in Cambridge MA" patch inside the jacket that i just cant live without. Glad i could help.

 

[horton]

two more cents:

Rizzo may be more appropriate for a business suit, than for a casual suit or a sports jacket

 

[mikeber]

I was also thinking of getting an Isaia MTM suit. However, I am not so sure where to order it from. I am a little concerned with department store sales people. The suit depends heavily on who takes your measurements. Looking at someone else suit might be misleading.
With the Rizzo you know better what you will be getting, since there are fittings and you go to someone who knows what they are doing.
Maybe someone can recommend a good place to order Isaia in NY.

 

[SuitingStyle]

Both Barney and Saks do a fair amout of Isaia MTM, I during the MTM sales in March and June for Barney's, they will someone from the company to do the measurements..... at least that's what I was told last time I inquired about it.

But my feeling is, with all the number of sources you could get discounted Isaia suits, if their RTW model already fit you pretty well, why spend the money to get their MTM, when all they do just fit you with one of their already existing RTW model. Unless, of course, there is something specific you have in mind that you are absolutely sure they don't make in RTW.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by horton

I have a few pieces from Rizzo. Joe is a nice guy and a dying breed. I like going to him in part knowing that there aren't many alternatives after him (There's an English guy on Federal street that I walk by everyday but have already forgotten the name of the place. I spoke to him briefly. He might be worth putting on radar too.)

Joe's suit is very different than an Isaia. His style is more Milanese (thing Zegna or Barbera). You can get a full custom suit for that price or less from fabulous fabric (e.g., Lesser). The arm holes won't be as high, and the suit won't be as soft as Isaia. The shoulders will be softer than a roman style (e.g., Brioni) but Joe's suits will evoke some thoughts of Brioni too.

You'll get three fittings, and there are certain things I think he does a good job of. The length and button stance will be spot on. He'll rotate the sleeves to fit your body very well. The suit will have clean shoulders and chest. He also does a great job with trousers. He does a very basic suit. He'll push you to choose a two button jacket but the v won't be very low (will be lower than a 3button). It works and looks better than expected. If you like working button holes, his are great and they're done by hand (not machine as Louis Boston does).

If you have more questions feel free to pm

What is the starting price for Joe Rizzo bespoke suits? In particular, what is the starting price for Joe Rizzo bespoke four-piece suits?

For those not in the know, four-piece suits and tuxedos always consist of nothing other than the following four articles of clothing: a jacket, two similar or identical pairs of pants and a matching vest.

 

[alebrady]

Originally Posted by mikeber

I was also thinking of getting an Isaia MTM suit. However, I am not so sure where to order it from. I am a little concerned with department store sales people. The suit depends heavily on who takes your measurements. Looking at someone else suit might be misleading.
With the Rizzo you know better what you will be getting, since there are fittings and you go to someone who knows what they are doing.
Maybe someone can recommend a good place to order Isaia in NY.

there is a guy in saks for isaia - i think his name is omar. he seems to know a lot about the different models and measured me for a MTM i had done several years ago. in terms of MTM, i think you could definitely do a lot worse.

 

[CunningSmeagol]

Originally Posted by SuitingStyle

But my feeling is, with all the number of sources you could get discounted Isaia suits, if their RTW model already fit you pretty well, why spend the money to get their MTM, when all they do just fit you with one of their already existing RTW model. Unless, of course, there is something specific you have in mind that you are absolutely sure they don't make in RTW.

So basically they just help you pick out a size? Do they account for shoulder slope, sleeve pitch, waist suppression, length? These are my problems with their standard model. If they don't at least do this, I'm leaning toward Rizzo.

I can't get a navy suit from Isaia discounted.

 

[TheFoo]

Out of curiosity, how did you narrow your choices down to Isaia and Rizzo? Seems a little random to me. To throw something else into the mix. you might consider J. Press MTM. I'm not sure if they do MTM out of their Cambridge store, but the ~$2000 price could be a decent deal.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Out of curiosity, how did you narrow your choices down to Isaia and Rizzo? Seems a little random to me. To throw something else into the mix. you might consider J. Press MTM. I'm not sure if they do MTM out of their Cambridge store, but the ~$2000 price could be a decent deal.

Well, Joe at Rizzo is Italian, and produces essentially a central Italian product, and that is probably a bit closer in aesthetic to Isaia's RTW/MTM wares than Press. In fact, for trad MTM in Cambridge, I think a more interesting option is the Andover Shop...even if some visitors think it a dingy den of scumbags. But, I don't think Runningbeagle is looking for trad.

Joe is really the only local bespoke option in the Boston area currently afaik...there are a few shops here and there that outsource MTM, and pass it off as "bespoke," but Joe measures, cuts, makes the coat, and does the fittings. He offers good options for cloth. Whether one likes his style is another matter, but it is a genuine bespoke offering of a kind that is disappearing: the medium priced local American urban tailor.

I will say that jamesbond's photographs look better to me than other Rizzo products I have seen on others...so, I'm not a big fan of Joe's style. But, I have been a customer of his alterations since college days.

- B

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Well, Joe at Rizzo is Italian, and produces essentially a central Italian product, and that is probably a bit closer in aesthetic to Isaia's RTW/MTM wares than Press. In fact, for trad MTM in Cambridge, I think a more interesting option is the Andover Shop...even if some visitors think it a dingy den of scumbags.

Andover's MTM is just standard issue (fused) Southwick made from a so-so selection of fabrics.

Press's MTM, if it is in fact made by Greenfield, would be a lot better. Though I'm not sure I'd trust anyone on Mt Auburn St to take the order - if they even offer it there.