Isaia Made to Measure

[Mike C.]

Quote:

(johnapril @ Mar. 19 2005,19:18) Kiton is overpriced. Isaia is priced about right for what you get. The MTM program is excellent. Many of the customers at the store where I shop are switching from Zegna MTM to Isaia MTM. Note that you can choose from many colorful linings Isaia has to offer, so don't miss that option.
I wouldn't say that. They are world class, and often use exclusive fabrics. You do get what you pay for, although "˜what' you pay for it is another matter altogether. Jon.
Kiton is priced that high for a reason. Saying it's overpriced doesn't really mean anything... Overpriced to who? Kiton does have the most amount of handwork of all makers. The level of handwork is almost absurd. They are one company that really doesn't care what thier suits retail at; they just want to have the best hand made garment on the market. The price reflects the craftsmanship, not the material in Kiton. That is why you'll see cashmere suits and cotton suits priced only $1500 apart. That is why the ties are $220. Also, Kiton buys fabrics in extremly low and unheard of quantities. Like 30 meters a run.

 

[tdial]

Not to hijack my own thread, but i've actually wondered - a) how are Borrelli's suits and what would be the "peer group" and b) who makes Isaia's shirts and ties? Â The stitching of their shirts seems remarkably similar to Borrelli shirts.

I don't like comparing suits based purely on price, since I think the styles are really what puts suits in a category. I'd put the Neapolitan manufacturers in a category, which would be Kiton, Attolini, Borrelli, and Isaia (I'm sure I'm missing some). Kiton and Attolini represent the best of RTW tailoring, and should sit a notch above Borrelli and Isaia. Owning several Borrelli suits and odd jackets, I can say that they are as well constructed as Kiton, but are behind in the degree of handwork (though if Kiton indexes at 100 on handwork, I'd put Borrelli at 95) as well as the luxuriousness of the fabrics (again, if Kiton indexes at 100, I'd put Borrelli at 90). I haven't had the opportunity to study Attolini pieces, so I only know what I've read. I'll let someone else who's more knowledgeable chime in on Attolini. Isaia I find just a step below Borrelli in terms of handwork. (If Borrelli is 95 to Kiton's 100, I'd put Isaia at 85-90). I would say that I have been impressed by Isaia's fabrics, however, and would put them on par or maybe even slightly better than Borrelli. I'd say that Isaia isn't as well constructed as Borrelli, but this is only a hunch based on the feel, not any specific knowledge. The real "value" I see in Borrelli, is that the styling is terrific (Neapolitan natural shoulder, with some waist suppression) and the construction is A+. And Borrelli is generally 60% the retail price of Kiton, while I don't believe it's 60% the garment. To me, a Kiton jacket and a Borrelli jacket feel very similar in terms of their comfort, etc. Of course, if I had $5,000 to spend on a RTW suit, I don't suspect I'd care too much about construction, etc. since I wouldn't be terribly concerned with such worldly matters. It's funny, but though I like the Neapolitan style better aesthetically, I probably look better with a more structured Brioni-type jacket.

 

[zjpj83]

Tidal, I am wondering on what basis you make your assertions. That is to say, I would be interested to hear where, say, Kiton has handwork that Borrelli does not. I examined MTM Borrelli last week, which had hand stitching all over the place. For instance, down both shoulders and down the center seam in the back of the jacket. I'm curious where you think Borrelli is "lacking" that puts it in the second tier?

 

[drljva]

Well, I pulled the trigger on a super 130s navy pinstripe Isaia MTM (went for a burgundy lining).  Also met the Isaia north america Rep.

We'll see how it looks in 6-8 weeks....

Is Andrew Tanner still the NA Rep?

 

[drljva]

Isaia priced the same as zegna is absurd.  Isaia is so much better.  that's like a BMW 545i being the same price as a VW Bug

what was the name of the American Rep?  andrew?

Have both, and don't really agree, as it depends on which "Zegna" we're talking about. My Zegna Napoli C. suits are among my favorites -- and I'll stack them up against almost anything in my closet (Brioni, RLPL, ... just about everything but my Kiton suits). I've done Isaia MTM many times. And in fact, one of my favorite suits is an Isaia MTM (Charcoal Super 150s 3B SB w/ Peak Lapels). Still, my experience with Isaia MTM has been hit or miss. The last couple of times, they (and NM) made such a mess of things that I simply gave up. FYI, the NA Rep made no real effort to rectify the problems that I experience; he could have cared less, for what it's worth...

 

[tdial]

Tidal, I am wondering on what basis you make your assertions.  That is to say, I would be interested to hear where, say, Kiton has handwork that Borrelli does not.  I examined MTM Borrelli last week, which had hand stitching all over the place.  For instance, down both shoulders and down the center seam in the back of the jacket.  I'm curious where you think Borrelli is "lacking" that puts it in the second tier?

I don't own any Kiton, only Borrelli, so my experience examining Kiton suits are only at boutiques and Neiman Marcus. I guess Kiton has more evident handwork, in that the stitching is much more obvious. My Borrelli lapels, back seem, pocket, etc. are much more subtle, while the Kiton has a bit more "flair," if that makes any sense at all. Perhaps I misspoke about the actual content. I suppose I should have stated that Kiton has much more dramatic evidence of handwork, at least to this viewer.

 

[Joe Esq]

I'd like to revive this thread. Does anyone have any recent experience with Isaia made-to-measure?

Specifically, interested in what the prices start at, and also what the styling of the made-to-measure tends to be like (slim/modern, boxy, etc.).

Also, what kind of choice of linings do you get?

Thanks,

Joe