We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.
STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.
Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!
Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
I know that a suit doesn't have to be entirely hand made for it to have no fusing. It's just that you don't understand that fusing is ubiquitous technique used in suit construction. There is a myth on this board that fusing=bad, which isn't true. It seems that you like to post about what you believe to be true, rather than actually knowing what's true.Mike, a suit doesn't have to be 100% handmade in order to have no fusing. A sewing machine will stitch in canvas just as well as a hand, which is why a fully canvassed suit can be priced at under $1200. If you'd like to cut open a Brioni and show me the fusing in the collar, I'm all eyes. Until then, I see this thread as doing little more than spreading misinformation.
I disagree with this. Â First of all, it's not a sewing machine, strictly speaking. Â Yes, it's a machine that sews. Â But the ones I have seen were not typical sewing machines, but special ones designed specifically to pad-stitch canvas quickly on mass-produced tailored garments. Â They are apparently quite expensive.A sewing machine will stitch in canvas just as well as a hand, which is why a fully canvassed suit can be priced at under $1200.
Correct. The reason why hand stitching is better than machine is because the tension of the stitch must be different in certain areas. Though hand stitching will look a bit crooked the the eye, it is more prized because of this reason.But that's a quibble. I definitely disagree that the machines do it as well as skilled hands. The lapels of a machine-padded coat are too stiff and too flat, to my eyes (and fingertips). It takes hand-work to achieve the right curvature to the roll. The collar can be machine-padded without much loss, though the best tailors still do it by hand anyway.
In some instances when stores show the interlining of a coat (like JN mentioned w/Brioni at NM), you can see the pad stitching done by machine if you know what to look for. Look at an example in Brioni for hand stitching, then compare it to others to see the difference.Yes, it's a machine that sews. But the ones I have seen were not typical sewing machines, but special ones designed specifically to pad-stitch canvas quickly on mass-produced tailored garments.
Yes, I would like to know what that means as well.the question remains, (and I'm asking because I am interested, not necessarily becuase I think you are full of it) where this supposed fusing is on, say, Brioni, if it isn't in the lapels or the chest. What do you mean by a "little" fusing?
There is a myth on this board that fusing=bad, which isn't true. It seems that you like to post about what you believe to be true, rather than actually knowing what's true.