Is this Paul Smith suit appropriate for me?

[SFA]

So in my multiple attempts to try and get a decent fitting suit, after having tried a samuelsohn MTM option, including a pal zileri (not M2M) with disastrous results, I figured I try this Paul Smith suit and was somewhat surprised. My problem all along has been my prominent behind (you can probably see evident in the picture), but also, my wife is suggesting a shorter jacket is more suited for me. All my current suits have had a) shoulder issues, they are too big as I have generally small shoulders and b) the suit jacket being too long.

Would be interested to get any thoughts or opinions. Ignoring the sleeve length issue which will be altered, including the little bit of folding around the neck area (I was assured that could be easily fixed), is this an appropriate suit for business wear? Is it too short and should I just walk away?

I was also told, all the pulling and wrinkling you see on the back as the suit jacket is buttoned is aunavoidable, as a result of my prominent behind.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[CousinDonuts]

Try a size down.

 

[Gus]

I like the length of the jacket. The pants look like a good fit in the leg. But the jacket pulls too tight across the back, mid-section and butt. It isn't working. The suit is just the wrong fit.

Look for another brand that has a similar length jacket but has more room in the seat.

 

[jrd617]



Try a size down.

Belay that order.The current size doesn't fit well, but a size down isn't going to work, especially in the torso (which is already snug)

I'd recommend looking at a more classically cut suit. Canali will probably work well in that range, but there are many others.

 

[jrd617]



I like the length of the jacket. The pants look like a good fit in the leg. But the jacket pulls too tight across the back, mid-section and butt. It isn't working. The suit is just the wrong fit.

Look for another brand that has a similar length jacket but has more room in the seat.

+1, beat me to it, PSG

 

[GBR]

No that is dreadful.

What went wrong with the Samuelson MTM?

 

[SFA]

Thanks for the replies guys.

This suit is actually a size 42. The PS salesman told me their suits are very slim, so the option of sizing down to a 40 won't help I don't think.

This confirms my initial thoughts/reaction that the suit is just NOT appropriate for me. A major issue for me is I have lordosis (or so i think, according to some feedback I got here on the forum). My butt/seat isn't that big (I could loose to a few pounds), but it sticks out due to the curvature of my back. Thus there is all that pulling in the mid-section.

The Samuelsohn M2M I tried here ended up being a disastor (imo). I initially came into this local store here wearing my Pal Zileri (it isn't a M2M and not Lab, it's the blue label line) which also didn't fit very good. The salesman at the store basically measured me wearing my pal zileri to comission the samuelsohn. So both suits have almost identical problems/issues.

I've attached the pictures below of the samuelsohn and pal zileri for reference. For now, I'm somewhat defeated in what I can do. I don't have the near knowledge/experience to go bespoke. I might cool off on the initial thought of a purchase until next summer when i can maybe lose a few more pounds and not have my seat stick out so much.

btw. i trid the Canali at a store, and their suit jackets are just too long. As much as i value my wife's input/thoughts, for some reason she was liking this paul smith due to the length of the jacket. I think, if I can find something (or even request a M2M with a similar lenght) I will be happy.

Here's the Samuelsohn (the darker suit) and Pal Zileri (the light summer grey suit) for comprasion of what I have.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[Gus]

MTM is only as good as the person doing the measuring. From your pics, they simply did a poor job. There isn't anything about your build that can't be accommodated with MTM.

 

[David Reeves]



MTM is only as good as the person doing the measuring. From your pics, they simply did a poor job. There isn't anything about your build that can't be accommodated with MTM.

Absolutely.

 

[SFA]

Thanks for the replies guys. Without divulging too much information about the store, as I don't want to tarnish their business (I'm just simply not going back to comission another suit from them), they took the samuelsohn measurements using some state of the art electronic measuring tool. I basically stood on a scale thing and the salesman was scaning measurements (again, based on me wearing my Pal Zileri suit).

Never occured to me that you shouldn't take measurments based on an ill fitting suit. I just didn't have the experience/knowledge or even know about to stop the process all along and let him know that it wasn't going to be good enough. I should have fought harder as I was spending quiet a bit of $.

The only closest thing for me to getting something fitting me decent is my Coppley M2M (it's my black wedding suit) I got through Harry Rosen. Their prices are inflated, but at this point, seeing how much I wasted on the Pal Zileri (I know it's an OTR.. but it still fits poorly and I wish the salesman then didn't let me walk away with it) and this Samuelsohn from another store, I might as well pay the inflated preimum to atleast get something to fit decently. I will try and get my wife to take pictures of the Coppley to see how it fits.

 

[Longmorn]

That Samuelsohn M2M is just unacceptable - is there any way you can demand a remake (with someone else taking the measurement) with a real person taking measurements from your body, not an ill-fitting suit? (ridiculous that they would do this in the first place).

If the length of the Canali jacket was the issue, did you try a 42S?

 

[othertravel]

Return the Samuelsohn. It was their fault, not yours.

 

[SFA]



That Samuelsohn M2M is just unacceptable - is there any way you can demand a remake (with someone else taking the measurement) with a real person taking measurements from your body, not an ill-fitting suit? (ridiculous that they would do this in the first place).

If the length of the Canali jacket was the issue, did you try a 42S? 

Unfortunately, it has been a little less than a year since I got this samuelsohn. I just don't think the store I go back to will a) remake this and b) I just don't trust them anymore.. I don't want to be mean spirited, but I should have clued on the fact that the salesman himself masuring me wasn't exactly wearing a properly fitted suit.

Everything about the samuelsohn M2M process was a dissapointment to me. When the pants came in initially, they were as baggy/billowy as ever which was clearly a mistake. When I came in at that time to try on the initial fit, I requested NEW pants to be made, but was assured the store's inhouse tailor would fix them. I was told Samuelsohn's policy is they no longer take back things for remake (highly questionable).

This might give me a slight idea to actually email samuelsohn (with those pics attached) to show them my dissapointment. Otherwise, I just chalk it up to a $1300 mistake.

Unfortunately, here in Toronto we're very limited in selection and getting good quality stuff. All these shops carry themselves as "Bespoke" tailors, but I just don't or can't trust anyone. I think I need more education and knowledge on things like shoulder fit, length of suits, etc..

I will try to experiment more and try on a 40S or every a 38R in Canalis or even an OTR samuelsohn.

 

[othertravel]



Unfortunately, it has been a little less than a year since I got this samuelsohn. I just don't think the store I go back to will a) remake this and b) I just don't trust them anymore.. I don't want to be mean spirited, but I should have clued on the fact that the salesman himself masuring me wasn't exactly wearing a properly fitted suit.

Everything about the samuelsohn M2M process was a dissapointment to me. When the pants came in initially, they were as baggy/billowy as ever which was clearly a mistake. When I came in at that time to try on the initial fit, I requested NEW pants to be made, but was assured the store's inhouse tailor would fix them. I was told Samuelsohn's policy is they no longer take back things for remake (highly questionable).

This might give me a slight idea to actually email samuelsohn (with those pics attached) to show them my dissapointment. Otherwise, I just chalk it up to a $1300 mistake.

Unfortunately, here in Toronto we're very limited in selection and getting good quality stuff. All these shops carry themselves as "Bespoke" tailors, but I just don't or can't trust anyone. I think I need more education and knowledge on things like shoulder fit, length of suits, etc..

I will try to experiment more and try on a 40S or every a 38R in Canalis or even an OTR samuelsohn.

Toronto's not that limited. You can get bespoke from Harry Rosen for $3600+ which isn't bad.

When Harry Rosen does Samuelsohn mtm, they use an actual Samuelsohn suit to determine the properbody and measurements. I think you should take it back or get a partial refund.

 

[Big A]

The Samelsohn can be made infinitely more acceptable (if nowhere near perfect) by doing two things: reducing the waist suppression and changing the cant of the sleeves (i.e., removing and resetting the sleeves so they are turned a few degrees back to better match the angle of your arm)

The Paul Smith cut just isn't going to fit your build. Try for something cut with a bit less drop from chest to waist and a bit less suppression. If you must buy off the rack, most "American" manufacturers (Ralph Lauren (except black label), the high end Hickey Freeman) are cut a little looser in the waist.

Go find a good tailor, and the alterations I mentioned should be no problem.