Is this Lapel Roll?

[wristandfeet]

Dear iGents,

I had only now started to learn about suiting and the various details.

I dug up a bespoke suit that was made (inexpensively) for me in a foreign country 10 years or so. At the time, I didn’t know anything about fabrics or construction, but when I rediscovered this suit, I was surprised by the quality of the fabric (Super 180 Wool Cashmere).

And then, I realized that the lapel looks slightly different from all the other suits I own. In the attached pic, is this what is referred to as the lapel roll?

If I may ask, how can I tell if this particular suit is fully canvassed or not?

thank you!

 

[dieworkwear]

Yes, that's the lapel roll.

To see if it's fully canvased, take the fabric a few inches below the lowest button, pinch the two outer layers, and pull them apart. If you can feel a distinct, floating layer in-between, that’s the canvas.

 

[wristandfeet]

Yes, that's the lapel roll.

To see if it's fully canvased, take the fabric a few inches below the lowest button, pinch the two outer layers, and pull them apart. If you can feel a distinct, floating layer in-between, that’s the canvas.

@dieworkwear Ah! No I can’t unfortunately. Many thanks for the tip! (as well as your response on the RRL thread)

I had always thought that the lapel roll is only achievable on fully canvassed suits. Learned new things today!

thanks again

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear Ah! No I can’t unfortunately. Many thanks for the tip! (as well as your response on the RRL thread)

I had always thought that the lapel roll is only achievable on fully canvassed suits. Learned new things today!

thanks again

A fused jacket will still have a bit of a lapel roll, but it won't be as much as one with a padded canvas.

You may have a half canvassed suit, but you can't tell from the pinch test. Most suits and sport coats have something called a chest piece inside, so you won't know if you're feeling the chest piece or canvas. Only way to know if it's half canvassed is to contact the company that sold you the suit.

 

[wristandfeet]

A fused jacket will still have a bit of a lapel roll, but it won't be as much as one with a padded canvas.

You may have a half canvassed suit, but you can't tell from the pinch test. Most suits and sport coats have something called a chest piece inside, so you won't know if you're feeling the chest piece or canvas. Only way to know if it's half canvassed is to contact the company that sold you the suit.

Super helpful once again. Thank you!