Is this a universal sign of quality?

[Mr. Moo]

The little collar tab bent back behind the collar and stitched. Is this a sign of a high quality garment, or not?

 

[sho'nuff]

i wonder that as well.

so many people paste a picture of that or the little threading between the lapels in buying and selling. i hope someone explains.

 

[rioni]

I dono but it sure looks cool

 

[drducky]

my understanding is that implies a hand-made collar, which is typically found on a high-quality garment

 

[porcelain monkey]

Originally Posted by drducky

my understanding is that implies a hand-made collar, which is typically found on a high-quality garment

I think this is right.

 

[idfnl]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

The little collar tab bent back behind the collar and stitched. Is this a sign of a high quality garment, or not?

Thats the jacket you wore in WAYWRN with that zip up sweater controversy, right? Nice jacket.

 

[jmacak]

Originally Posted by drducky

my understanding is that implies a hand-made collar, which is typically found on a high-quality garment

Hi

That's my understanding too. I've seen the turned-back cloth only on 'bespoke' items.

Although bespoke does not guarantee high quality.

-j

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by drducky

my understanding is that implies a hand-made collar, which is typically found on a high-quality garment
I see. Anyone want to chime in to solidify this? I see jackets with this collar that are made by some lesser known brands, and I never know if this can just be a "gimmick" to fake quality, or whether it is truly a quality marker.

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by idfnl

Thats the jacket you wore in WAYWRN with that zip up sweater controversy, right? Nice jacket.

Heh, no that not the jacket - this one is just a picture I saw in the B&S forum and it reminded me that I've been thinking about this topic for a while. My jacket (solid grey) does have this feature as well.

 

[polar-lemon]

I think it's the equivalent of basting stitches; can be a marker of quality, but is not a guarantee- you see them in the Chinese-made Italian-named suits sold at Marshalls too.

I've seen this collar feature on some really crappy Barney's outlet jackets, in addition to some other low-level stuff. They definitely did not have hand-attached collars.

 

[polar-lemon]

Though I will say, the stitching there (on a Sartorio) is obviously hand-done, which is a definite sign of quality.

 

[Faded501s]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

I see. Anyone want to chime in to solidify this? I see jackets with this collar that are made by some lesser known brands, and I never know if this can just be a "gimmick" to fake quality, or whether it is truly a quality marker.

The significance is that the stitching shown is obviously not done by machine which suggests that someone took the time and care to shape and stitch the collar by hand. Any kind of handwork is a sign of quality IMO...unless it is blatantly obvious (or sloppy). The more handwork looks like it was done by a machine the better (more precise) it is, as in this case. At least that's my understanding of it.

 

[Manton]

The flap is excess fabric in case the collar needs to be altered. An over-tight collar can be loosened by making a new inter- and under-collar and then making the top collar larger. But only if you have that excess top collar fabric to begin with.

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by Manton

The flap is excess fabric in case the collar needs to be altered. An over-tight collar can be loosened by making a new inter- and under-collar and then making the top collar larger. But only if you have that excess top collar fabric to begin with.

Knowledge is power.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

I see. Anyone want to chime in to solidify this? I see jackets with this collar that are made by some lesser known brands, and I never know if this can just be a "gimmick" to fake quality, or whether it is truly a quality marker.

Doesn't mean squat. E.g.:

Machine padded collars...the little doohickey indicates nothing rather than doohickeyness. In the cases above, the machined padded collar is attached by hand. In your first pic, that collar is machine padded and from what I can see, also attached by machine. Nothin' special.

It doesn't mean whether the collar is well done per se, since machines are very advanced these days. But then, one wonders what the purpose of sewing back the flap by hand is if not to give a false impression of hand make.

Oh, the pics I post are Kiton collars from prior epic threads familiar to many.

If you want to see examples of hand padded and handsewn collars, take a look at Foof's Rubinacci and my Steed photos here on Foof's blog:

Foofy Tawk.

- B