Is there really much of a difference between fused and hand stitched?

[lance konami]

I've never really worn suits much, and I'm not required to for work, but I'd like to start wearing them because I want to. I really don't know much about suits except the general cuts that I like, just from being on this forum. I know that fused is a cheaper way to make the jacket and I realize that the glue can start bubbling in the dry cleaning process, and hand stitched seem to "move" better with the body.

Is this true? Do you guys notice a big difference? Do they look different? Can you guys spot a jacket that was hand stitched just by sight?

 

[sonlegoman]

The easiest thing I notice are the shoulder pads of fused jackets. You can see them from the back after years of wear.

 

[Limniscate]

I was at Gassane Tailors in Austin (he's made suits for Bush) picking up my Marco Valentino, and he said most jackets have to be canvassed at the top in the chest area. I was under the impression that most cheaper suits are 100% fused. Could someone please clarify this?

 

[itsstillmatt]

There is a big difference between fused and machine stitched (Borelli, Brioni, Kiton etc,) and another big difference between machine stitched and hand stitched.

 

[mack11211]

Mixing terms.

Chestpieces can be canvassed or fused. This canvassing involves layers of fabric that can be sewn in by hand or by machine.

One can have a canvassed coat that is mostly or entirely made by machine.

But because canvassing is a more labor intensive process, and perhaps involves more expensive materials, it is found only in higher end suits, which also have many hand stitched details both for show and because the alignment of certain pieces is best done by hand, and also because hand sticking provides a more flexible connection between certain areas of the coat.

 

[Despos]

look for a post on canvass fronts by jeffreyd. Its a tell all thread explained in detail and with pictures.

 

[oneade]

most people don't even know canvassed or fused suits exist. they're just suits.

very few can tell the difference between canvassed and fused by sight alone.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by oneade

very few can tell the difference between canvassed and fused by sight alone.

96.2% of the ones that claim to be able to do so post here.

 

[LesterSnodgrass]

Longish story to prove a point:

I (poor government lawyer) had a meeting yesterday with another attorney (high priced partner in BigLaw). I wore a fully canvassed vintage (second hand) gray flannel suit that I have determined was likely bespoke for the first generation owner. I had extensive tailoring done by a master tailor to fit me exquisitely. It is my prized suit and gets regular compliments. (I once got laid in a late model Honda Prelude by a Pakistani girl while wearing it). To get to the point, at one point of the meeting, he jokingly berated my attire as I am a lowly poor government schlub. I had already noted that (a) his tie was at least three inches lower than his belt, (b) his suit was a fused piece of junk, and (c) he wore shabby loafers while I wore highly polished C&J oxfords.

Moral of the story: (1) I noticed his cheap attire (2) he had no clue about anything noted in the above paragraph (especially the part about the Pakistani chick), and (3) he billed $1,000/hour while I made nothing more than I do when I read SF for 8 hours at my desk.

Draw conclusions as you will.

 

[yfyf]

Originally Posted by LesterSnodgrass

Longish story to prove a point:

I (poor government lawyer) had a meeting yesterday with another attorney (high priced partner in BigLaw). I wore a fully canvassed vintage (second hand) gray flannel suit that I have determined was likely bespoke for the first generation owner. I had extensive tailoring done by a master tailor to fit me exquisitely. It is my prized suit and gets regular compliments. (I once got laid in a late model Honda Prelude by a Pakistani girl while wearing it). To get to the point, at one point of the meeting, he jokingly berated my attire as I am a lowly poor government schlub. I had already noted that (a) his tie was at least three inches lower than his belt, (b) his suit was a fused piece of junk, and (c) he wore shabby loafers while I wore highly polished C&J oxfords.

Moral of the story: (1) I noticed his cheap attire (2) he had no clue about anything noted in the above paragraph (especially the part about the Pakistani chick), and (3) he billed $1,000/hour while I made nothing more than I do when I read SF for 8 hours at my desk.

Draw conclusions as you will.

Poorly dressed jerks have no respect for you or your womanizer-wardrobe.

 

[Limniscate]

LOL, was he a Skadden partner?

Originally Posted by LesterSnodgrass

Longish story to prove a point:

I (poor government lawyer) had a meeting yesterday with another attorney (high priced partner in BigLaw). I wore a fully canvassed vintage (second hand) gray flannel suit that I have determined was likely bespoke for the first generation owner. I had extensive tailoring done by a master tailor to fit me exquisitely. It is my prized suit and gets regular compliments. (I once got laid in a late model Honda Prelude by a Pakistani girl while wearing it). To get to the point, at one point of the meeting, he jokingly berated my attire as I am a lowly poor government schlub. I had already noted that (a) his tie was at least three inches lower than his belt, (b) his suit was a fused piece of junk, and (c) he wore shabby loafers while I wore highly polished C&J oxfords.

Moral of the story: (1) I noticed his cheap attire (2) he had no clue about anything noted in the above paragraph (especially the part about the Pakistani chick), and (3) he billed $1,000/hour while I made nothing more than I do when I read SF for 8 hours at my desk.

Draw conclusions as you will.

 

[LesterSnodgrass]

Originally Posted by Limniscate

LOL, was he a Skadden partner?
No, DLA Piper. In his defense he was a pleasure to work with and served his client well. I am sure he thinks the junk his wife picks out is stylish because it is expensive. And my boss, a career prosecutor, wears great Oxxford suits that his wife bought for him at Neiman (where she is a personal shopper). In the end, money can buy stylishness, but seldom does.

 

[mack11211]

Originally Posted by LesterSnodgrass

Longish story to prove a point:

I (poor government lawyer) had a meeting yesterday with another attorney (high priced partner in BigLaw). I wore a fully canvassed vintage (second hand) gray flannel suit that I have determined was likely bespoke for the first generation owner. I had extensive tailoring done by a master tailor to fit me exquisitely. It is my prized suit and gets regular compliments. (I once got laid in a late model Honda Prelude by a Pakistani girl while wearing it). To get to the point, at one point of the meeting, he jokingly berated my attire as I am a lowly poor government schlub. I had already noted that (a) his tie was at least three inches lower than his belt, (b) his suit was a fused piece of junk, and (c) he wore shabby loafers while I wore highly polished C&J oxfords.

Moral of the story: (1) I noticed his cheap attire (2) he had no clue about anything noted in the above paragraph (especially the part about the Pakistani chick), and (3) he billed $1,000/hour while I made nothing more than I do when I read SF for 8 hours at my desk.

Draw conclusions as you will.

Men like your suit because it smells like sex.

 

[RJmanbearpig]

Pics? I'm sure some of our members of Indian origin are congenitally disposed to want to screw the Pakistanis.

 

[nostrings]

Originally Posted by sonlegoman

The easiest thing I notice are the shoulder pads of fused jackets. You can see them from the back after years of wear.

Can anyone share any other tell-tale signs of fused jackets?

Yesterday, I tried on both a Hickey Freeman and a Burberry model that had this attribute. If I am forced to buy something off the rack, will I have to settle for a fused jacket with prominent shoulder pads?