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is there a standard way to measure jacket lapel gorge height?

random512

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I know how to identify a jacket with a high gorge vs one with a low gorge. But is there any standard way of measuring gorge height on a jacket? For example, would this be measured as the distance from the top/shoulder seam vertically down to the inner point of the gorge?
 

edmorel

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The "standard" is what you describe. From the shoulder seam to the notch in the gorge. For DB's it's a bit harder, you typically want to go down from your notch lapel measurement. A 2 1/2 inch gorge is what you see most RTW Italian brands doing now, the tailors that are often mentioned here seem to favor a 3-3 1/2 inch gorge.

It's somewhat based on personal preference but should take your shoulders (and height to an exent) into consideration. Very sloping shoulders and a high gorge spells disaster in my opinion. Very square shoulders and low gorge is also bad. Also, if you are of a small stature, say 5 feet 5 or so, a high gorge will make you look smaller. If you are very tall, you can get away with a high gorge but a medium one looks better I think. Also, I prefer suits with slightly lower gorges then sportcoats.
 

random512

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The "standard" is what you describe. From the shoulder seam to the notch in the gorge. For DB's it's a bit harder, you typically want to go down from your notch lapel measurement. A 2 1/2 inch gorge is what you see most RTW Italian brands doing now, the tailors that are often mentioned here seem to favor a 3-3 1/2 inch gorge.

It's somewhat based on personal preference but should take your shoulders (and height to an exent) into consideration. Very sloping shoulders and a high gorge spells disaster in my opinion. Very square shoulders and low gorge is also bad. Also, if you are of a small stature, say 5 feet 5 or so, a high gorge will make you look smaller. If you are very tall, you can get away with a high gorge but a medium one looks better I think. Also, I prefer suits with slightly lower gorges then sportcoats.

great answer thanks!
 

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