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Is my tailor BSing and upselling me?

jalebi

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Earlier today I was trying a new tailor closer to me. I had purchased a jacket pre-lockdown that needed to be taken in at the waist, and having lost a few extra kilos during lockdown the need to be taken was even greater. I usually wear a 40 drop 7 (sometimes 8) jacket, and this jacket is a 42 drop 6.

When I went to the tailor's today we determined that circa 3.5in would need to be taken it at the waist. He mentioned that this significant an amount would result in some bulging in the upper back area (sort of like a square back type issue?) if taken in solely at the centre seam. He suggested that he take it from 3 seams and that would solve any buncing/bulging in the upper back. I've never had a jacket taken in this much, but does this ring true? He said as it was a more involved process it would invariably cost more (circa 2x). Does that sound reasonable?
 

papado

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Earlier today I was trying a new tailor closer to me. I had purchased a jacket pre-lockdown that needed to be taken in at the waist, and having lost a few extra kilos during lockdown the need to be taken was even greater. I usually wear a 40 drop 7 (sometimes 8) jacket, and this jacket is a 42 drop 6.

When I went to the tailor's today we determined that circa 3.5in would need to be taken it at the waist. He mentioned that this significant an amount would result in some bulging in the upper back area (sort of like a square back type issue?) if taken in solely at the centre seam. He suggested that he take it from 3 seams and that would solve any buncing/bulging in the upper back. I've never had a jacket taken in this much, but does this ring true? He said as it was a more involved process it would invariably cost more (circa 2x). Does that sound reasonable?

I've never had a jacket taken in via the center back seam and if you read the forum you'll learn that it isn't really an operation you want to take lightly. If you really can't get it close fitting enough for your liking by taking in only by the side seams, I'd venture the jacket probably isn't worth the alterations you're paying for.

Doing work across all those seams would certainly cost more, plus it depends on how you're being charged. Some shops charge per seam, others charge set prices based on the operation. I'm sure the # he is quoting is valid giving you're working on a lot of different pieces, but as I said above, I'd almost argue this jacket is not worth the alterations unless it is quite an expensive jacket you cannot replace.
 

jalebi

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I've only ever had my jacket taken in at the centre seam, but I assumed that was done out of ease as I usually only get it taken in 0.5in-1in. Searching the forum so more it seems like taking it in from several seams may be a necessity for larger amounts.

The shoulders and chest fit great (it's a Neapolitan fit 42, and I'm around a 41 roughly), so I think it'll look decent the waist taper. Agree that I would have been better off buying a better size, but this is a lovely Sartoria Partenopea sports jacket which was only available in 42, and they are sadly out of business too!
 

Phileas Fogg

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I lack the technical knowledge to know for sure, but I find it hard to see how so much can be adjusted just from the center seam. I think your alterations tailor is giving you his best advice.
 

papado

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I've never had a jacket taken in via the center back seam and if you read the forum you'll learn that it isn't really an operation you want to take lightly. If you really can't get it close fitting enough for your liking by taking in only by the side seams, I'd venture the jacket probably isn't worth the alterations you're paying for.

Doing work across all those seams would certainly cost more, plus it depends on how you're being charged. Some shops charge per seam, others charge set prices based on the operation. I'm sure the # he is quoting is valid giving you're working on a lot of different pieces, but as I said above, I'd almost argue this jacket is not worth the alterations unless it is quite an expensive jacket you cannot replace.

If you're confident with this tailor's previous work and you love the jacket, then I would say go ahead with the alterations. As mentioned, working across multiple seams will be more $$$ and if it's the way to make the jacket work for you then it is what it is!
 

Despos

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Please post before and after pictures.
 

Toninno

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Earlier today I was trying a new tailor closer to me. I had purchased a jacket pre-lockdown that needed to be taken in at the waist, and having lost a few extra kilos during lockdown the need to be taken was even greater. I usually wear a 40 drop 7 (sometimes 8) jacket, and this jacket is a 42 drop 6.

When I went to the tailor's today we determined that circa 3.5in would need to be taken it at the waist. He mentioned that this significant an amount would result in some bulging in the upper back area (sort of like a square back type issue?) if taken in solely at the centre seam. He suggested that he take it from 3 seams and that would solve any buncing/bulging in the upper back. I've never had a jacket taken in this much, but does this ring true? He said as it was a more involved process it would invariably cost more (circa 2x). Does that sound reasonable?
He is %100 correct and it’s more than three times the work. He knows what he’s doing. He’s not a dry cleaner. ??
 

Despos

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hard not to be skeptical when reading of extreme adjustments like this. First question is, do you have a plan and commitment to keep the weight off? Mistake getting to your leanest weight and have clothing fitted to a size you cannot maintain. A little weight gain is more common than keeping the weight off.
Reducing the waist to the closest fit at the waist with a larger than normal drop doesn't always look right or balanced. How a finished jacket is reduced at the waist is different than how it would be shaped from the original cutting method.
Taking the waist in 3.5" is pulling the fronts so far to the back it will likely create diagonal pulling from the front chest to the waist line in back. If so, you know you have taken it in too much.
My approach to alterations is to make the same adjustment, if possible, as I would do when cutting the garment. I don't adjust the center back seam unless its necessary. It is usually only needed to accommodate posture adjustments. When someone alters your jacket only on the center seam it is taking a short cut and avoiding opening and remaking the side vents and or the armhole. Taking in 3.5" requires opening both the vents and the armhole to do a clean job. This takes a lot of time.
Taking in the center seam is actually sewing a relatively straight line from the armhole down to hem. Look at a back pattern piece and you will see. This doesn't create the shaping of the waist like taking in the side seams which are curved and follow the line of the body from chest to waist. Working on the center seam only takes away volume but doesn't replicate the shape of the body.
If I took this jacket in 3", would open the side seams and reduce 1" at the waist from the side body and only .5" off the back part at the waist. If the jacket back needed a bit more suppression, would take in the center back .25" double at the waist only.
What happens if you overdo the waist suppression is the jacket hangs up on the hip and you get a lot of wrinkles at the top of the vents. There has been a lot of pictures in this thread of this happening and questions for a remedy. You also get a bubble butt profile because the waist is taken in so much the vents flare out over the seat. Plenty of pictures of this in this thread.
Taking in the side body more than the back, as described, creates more overlap of the vent and offsets the splaying open.
The BS is taking it in on the center seam only.
Over engineered explanation? Probably! But, alterations gone wrong and you won't wear or enjoy wearing the jacket. These jackets end up on Ebay.
 
Last edited:

sam67

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Earlier today I was trying a new tailor closer to me. I had purchased a jacket pre-lockdown that needed to be taken in at the waist, and having lost a few extra kilos during lockdown the need to be taken was even greater. I usually wear a 40 drop 7 (sometimes 8) jacket, and this jacket is a 42 drop 6.

When I went to the tailor's today we determined that circa 3.5in would need to be taken it at the waist. He mentioned that this significant an amount would result in some bulging in the upper back area (sort of like a square back type issue?) if taken in solely at the centre seam. He suggested that he take it from 3 seams and that would solve any buncing/bulging in the upper back. I've never had a jacket taken in this much, but does this ring true? He said as it was a more involved process it would invariably cost more (circa 2x). Does that sound reasonable?
How did this end up? I just came across your post. Thanks
 

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