Is it possible to take in 5 inches for suit jacket waist suppression?

[Despos]

Interesting! I did not know about those guidelines. What would be a fuller fitting jacket, but still not yet 'too' big? Would that be six inches or so of clearance?

@acapaca
It’s the way pattern making is done. Clothing isn’t cut to actual body measurements. It’s done with body measures plus X” for ease. Add various amounts of ease for how close to the body or how loose you want the fit. 5 -5.5” is average.
6” over the waist measure, the fullest part of the waist, not the trouser waist measurement, will be a relaxed, easy fit. It’s different for each individual how close they want the jacket to be.

 

[willyto]

@acapaca
It’s the way pattern making is done. Clothing isn’t cut to actual body measurements. It’s done with body measures plus X” for ease. Add various amounts of ease for how close to the body or how loose you want the fit. 5 -5.5” is average.
6” over the waist measure, the fullest part of the waist, not the trouser waist measurement, will be a relaxed, easy fit. It’s different for each individual how close they want the jacket to be.

Thanks to the videos @dieworkwear shared and your knowledge now I feel different about jacket waist and know a bit more than I did before.

Now that I have a few jackets that need alterations in the chest and waist I will have that knowledge in mind.

 

[acapaca]

Is there a similar recommendation for chest, or is that one a little harder to pin down? I'm guessing the pit-to-pit measurement should be at least three inches or so more than the body measurement? Or is it preferred to split the difference somewhere between the under-arm and over-arm measurements?

 

[Despos]

Is there a similar recommendation for chest, or is that one a little harder to pin down? I'm guessing the pit-to-pit measurement should be at least three inches or so more than the body measurement? Or is it preferred to split the difference somewhere between the under-arm and over-arm measurements?

Measuring across the chest as you describe, as far as I understand, is used for online purposes. I have never done this and question the accuracy or if it gives any accurate information.
The chest ease is built into my drafting system and I don’t change it. Don’t know how much ease is there. If I need a fuller or trimmer chest I adjust but don’t use a formula to do so. Pattern maker who drafts a variety of silhouettes probably has a formula for the chest. I haven’t needed it.
The waist girth is determined by the actual measurement and how the client wants the waist to fit.
Not sure what you are asking about under and over arm measurements.

 

[acapaca]

Thanks. Yes, that's part of what I was wondering, whether the physical measurement of the jacket at that 'pit-to-pit' location under the armholes has a whole lot of bearing on how well it will fit. I imagine there are many other variables in play. But at the same time, I would think there is at least some correlation to be found, since both the panels and the body itself do have dimensions.

And yes, this is in reference to RTW stuff, or online MTM. I had been under the impression that some guys might have especially large (or I suppose especially small) upper arms or shoulders, and that could be something to factor when choosing a 'size' ('size' at least ostensibly referring to chest measurement, in this case).

 

[Despos]

If you have larger biceps and therefore a larger overarm measure it will be difficult to get RTW to fit well. If you fit a larger size to accommodate your arms, the chest is too big. If you fit your chest size, you don’t have room to move your arms or shoulder.
With a larger overarm measure I adjust the size/ width of the armhole and sleeve to accommodate a bicep and or shoulder that is larger than would be found on that size chest. I don’t make the chest bigger. An example of a 40 chest, 50” over arm. You get a 40” chest with the armhole/sleeve of a 44” chest. Gives you movement and comfort because the armhole and sleeve are cut to fit the larger bicep and shoulder without changing the chest size of the jacket.

 

[rhb57]

Okay so today I went to a Canali boutique store and tried a 38R(drop 8) and it fitted me almost perfectly, I guess my question now is how realistic it is to tailor a 40R into a 38R?

 

[Despos]

Okay so today I went to a Canali boutique store and tried a 38R(drop 8) and it fitted me almost perfectly, I guess my question now is how realistic it is to tailor a 40R into a 38R?

Fit your chest and shoulder and take in or let out the waist. Don’t buy a jacket too big in chest and shoulder and try to alter it smaller.