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Is it bad for a tailor to "measure" you by having you try OTR suits?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DGP, Jul 25, 2006.

  1. DGP

    DGP Senior member

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    When I went in to have a suit made, rather than taking every little measurement, the person in the store had me try on different OTR suits and then made adjustments based on how those fit me to get the right fit for my suit. For example, two cm longer here, let out one inch here, and then, of course, pant and sleve lengths. Considering they don't make the suits at the shop, and the measurements get sent out to Zegna to make, is there anything wrong with fitting a suit in this way? Or is the only way to do it by measuring every little part of a person?
     


  2. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Senior member

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    When I went in to have a suit made, rather than taking every little measurement, the person in the store had me try on different OTR suits and then made adjustments based on how those fit me to get the right fit for my suit. For example, two cm longer here, let out one inch here, and then, of course, pant and sleve lengths. Considering they don't make the suits at the shop, and the measurements get sent out to Zegna to make, is there anything wrong with fitting a suit in this way? Or is the only way to do it by measuring every little part of a person?

    is this a mtm suit? it would make sense, since they're probably going to grab the jacket pattern and pants pattern that fits you best, make it and modify that.
     


  3. DGP

    DGP Senior member

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    is this a mtm suit? it would make sense, since they're probably going to grab the jacket pattern and pants pattern that fits you best, make it and modify that.


    Yup, MTM. Just making sure this was the standard practice for such suits. They found what sizes fit me best, then I chose the exact style jacket and pants I wanted, and the made the necessary modifications for the measurements. Only thing they changed that a good tailor couldn't was they made the length right in between a regular and a long.
     


  4. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Not being a tailor I can't say I know whether this is a good practice or not.

    What I do feel comfortable saying is I much prefer it when I am measured fully in the usual manner. If it is MTM and the tailor then chooses to take an equivalent garment OTR and then pin this on me and make additional notes, I have no objection at all and have been through this process myself.

    But something in me wants to see the actual measurements too. I might be irrational in this, but it strikes me as the "right" way to go about things.
     


  5. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Yes, this is standard practice for MTM.

    !luc
     


  6. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Not being a tailor I can't say I know whether this is a good practice or not.

    What I do feel comfortable saying is I much prefer it when I am measured fully in the usual manner. If it is MTM and the tailor then chooses to take an equivalent garment OTR and then pin this on me and make additional notes, I have no objection at all and have been through this process myself.

    But something in me wants to see the actual measurements too. I might be irrational in this, but it strikes me as the "right" way to go about things.



    I feel exactly the same way. I see nothing wrong with using a _try-on_ jacket to get approximate sizing, but I'm uncomfortable unless the tailor actually takes my measurements. This combination of using a try-on jacket and then also taking complete measurements is the way all my MTM experiences have proceeded.
     


  7. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    I feel exactly the same way. I see nothing wrong with using a _try-on_ jacket to get approximate sizing, but I'm uncomfortable unless the tailor actually takes my measurements. This combination of using a try-on jacket and then also taking complete measurements is the way all my MTM experiences have proceeded.

    Yes, using both is preferred. The model try-on is useful for noting modifications in gorge and button stance placement, lapel width, front quarter geometry, jacket length, etc........
     


  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Whilst it is far from desirable, at the cheaper end and where the person serving really lacks basic competences it is probably easier to refer the factory to changes to a standard garment.

    I suppose that you could pretend that all the man is doing is the normal changes at the forward fitting stage in bespoke.

    However I would go somewhere else.
     


  9. rdawson808

    rdawson808 Senior member

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    My one MTM was done that way and it fits fine. In fact, it fits great.

    I'm sure that exact measurements might be ideal, but then in order to have those every little things fit it would just be bespoke, wouldn't it?

    bob
     


  10. xarope

    xarope Well-Known Member

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    my MTM does both, firstly about half an hour to measure, then to try on two different sized jackets to see which fitted better, then another 15 mins or so to tweak the measurements for the chosen size.
     


  11. alflauren

    alflauren Senior member

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    Yes, standard practice. Although, I am still impressed by a tailor who I visited for an MTM suit last year. He looked at me and accurately identified my jacket size, waist, and inseam.
     


  12. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    It doesn't really sound like MTM...but more like alteration of RTW...or maybe you could call it semi-MTM.

    Usually with MTM, you choose between several different pattern suits (usually those black suits with a bunch of white stitching on them...in your case you tried on different OTR suits) The pattern determines the big things like type of suit (double, single), button stance, gorge, etc.

    Then detailed measurements are taken of your body and applied to the pattern suit you previous chose. You can change the fit of the suit by specifying a relaxed fit, tight fit, etc...and things like more waist suppression, etc.

    Finally, you will select the options...what color/type of buttons, what type of pockets (patch, flaps, etc.), type of vents (no vents, single, double), how much lining, what type of lining, what color lining, what type of stitching, etc. etc.

    Oh, and I almost forgot! One of the most important parts of MTM is that you can choose fabric type and pattern...Super 120s, 150s, 180s wool, cashmere, linen, bamboo, etc. etc.
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket tried on should be the same model as you are ordering. If he tried on several brands (not Zegna) or different Zegna silhouettes, your margin of error has increased IMO. If Zegna has multiple body styles, shapes, cuts to choose from, trying on these silhouettes will show you what you are getting, you can tweak from the model. Measuring should be from one garment only and your body.

    I make custom clothing, but have made sample garments from my patterns. 1, You, the client can see and judge the correctness of the style for yourself. 2,I can see where and what adjustments you need from a finished garment and then make your pattern. If I measured you from a different garment than one I cut, it would not be the same.
     


  14. realbespoke

    realbespoke Member

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    When I went in to have a suit made, rather than taking every little measurement, the person in the store had me try on different OTR suits and then made adjustments based on how those fit me to get the right fit for my suit. For example, two cm longer here, let out one inch here, and then, of course, pant and sleve lengths. Considering they don't make the suits at the shop, and the measurements get sent out to Zegna to make, is there anything wrong with fitting a suit in this way? Or is the only way to do it by measuring every little part of a person?

    [​IMG] Yes this is very typical with MTM especially using a box program in stores
    Very little room for the uneducated sales associate to mess things up.
    www.marlonaustin.com
    The Real Bespoke!
     


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