Is Deconstruc Lining = Deconstructed structure?

[mottykytu]

Are all Half, 1/4 or No Lining Jacket (usually in Linen or Linen Blend) also have no Canvas Floating and have Unstructered Construction? Thank you ?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I have unlined jackets that are otherwise canvassed and structured so no.

 

[mottykytu]

I have unlined jackets that are otherwise canvassed and structured so no.

so that mean the canvassed don't need to be sewed on to the Lining ? I think it lay between the outer fabric and lining?

 

[papado]

so that mean the canvassed don't need to be sewed on to the Lining ? I think it lay between the outer fabric and lining?

Nope, the canvassing sits between the outer fabric and then the fabric again on the inside (near the pocketing and such running up the chest/lapels). I don't know how it looks on a true "unlined" jacket (perhaps this is the one example you don't see but all my half and quarter lined jackets are full-canvass construction; it's probably easier to describe in photos.

 

[Keith Taylor]

This is a quarter lined cashmere jacket of mine, with the canvas basted to the layer of fabric on the reverse of the front panel that holds the inner pockets.

To be honest I’m not sold on this construction. I love an unlined jacket, and I especially love the ease of alterations when the seams are so accessible, but with the canvas not being fully sealed off it’s all too easy to mess it up. A couple of weeks ago I wore this to the pub and showed it to a friend who’s planning to dip his toe into MTM and was curious about canvassing. He reached a clumsy hand between the panels and popped much of the basting holding the canvas in place (easily done after a few beers), and now the front panel doesn’t sit quite right. Basting isn’t designed to withstand that kind of stress, so it can be a bad idea to expose such delicate stitching. It’s definitely a bad idea to then hand it to a drunk, ham-fisted mate without close supervision.

 

[mottykytu]

^^^ Very Interesting information thank you

So all the very high-end brand like Kiton and Brioni always have Full-Canvassed jacket? many thanks !

 

[Keith Taylor]

Pretty much always, yes. I’m sure that once in a blue moon you’ll find a jacket at the Kiton/Brioni level that’s only half canvassed, but if so it would invariably be for a good reason (i.e. because it’s intentionally unstructured) rather than to reduce costs.

If you’re interested here’s a half lined, fully canvassed Raffaele Caruso I’m butchering... I mean altering right now. The canvas is basted to the front panel alone, so when the lining is replaced it won’t be connected to the canvas at any point.

 

[jefferyd]

The canvas is basted to the front panel alone, so when the lining is replaced it won’t be connected to the canvas at any point.

You will find that the seam joining the lining to the facing has been blindstitched to the canvas; once you change the lining you will want to do the same. There is a very particular technique to doing this which I can show you.

 

[Keith Taylor]

Ah, I stand corrected. Didn’t think to look at that area as I’ve not detached the lining from the facing (nor the canvas from the front panel), but yes, you’re right

 

[mottykytu]

Ah, I stand corrected. Didn’t think to look at that area as I’ve not detached the lining from the facing (nor the canvas from the front panel), but yes, you’re right

What wrong with the Jacket that you have to Unlined it ?

 

[Keith Taylor]

Nothing much. Just a minor adjustment to the vents and - possibly, I haven’t decided yet - fractionally shortening the jacket, but the truth is that I’m just an incurable tinkerer. I can’t resist playing around with vintage jackets, especially when I paid little enough that I won’t kick myself too hard if I screw something up.