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Is black Oxford really the most versatile shoe?

amiga505

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Greetings.

There was a somewhat controversial thread here recently about the versatility of a blue dress shirt, so I thought I start something in a similar vein and try to initiate a discussion around another classical staple - a black Oxford dress shoe.

I think I have to begin by stating that sometime in winter, probably in February, I developed a dislike for that supposedly timeless classic, the navy blue and black combination. This happened to me while watching a video about blazers on Gentleman's Gazette Youtube channel, here is the video in question:



At a certain point along the way Raphael claims that navy and black never work together, and backs it with a visual:

Снимок экрана 2020-04-18 в 17.44.44.png


Now, I don't know if it's a case of inculcation, but that was that for me - from the moment I saw this picture I can never quite stomach these colours together. Surprisingly enough, while watching a video on light brown shoes by Vladimir Riché today I learned that there are men out there who hold the same opinion. This is the video:



I should probably mention that, at least according to Vladimir, same men often prefer light brown shoes with navy suits, a combination I don't think I myself ever employed. I did however wear light brown shoes with a taupe suit, was criticised here on the forum, and have since seen the light, but I should not hide the fact that aforementioned pair of light brown Oxfords was my first pair of fine dress shoes, so the irony does not escape me here. Guilty, I would have done it differently today.

Back to the black and navy combination: needless to say, the combination of navy suit and black Oxfords looks jarring to my eye now. I have tried to push it, but was disappointed and accepted it as my personal rule. It got so bad however, that I even dislike the combination if there is a layer between the black and the navy, such as mid-grey trousers in a (another classics) black Oxfords - mid-grey flannel trousers - navy blazer combination.

With this in mind, the versatility of a black Oxford is greatly reduced in my opinion. It does not go with navy (at least not for me), nor with even lighter shades of blue. One can't wear it with brown. All that remains is black and greys, of which, really, black and dark/charcoal grey are really a must. Truth be told, the only reason I bought a pair of black Oxfords is the fact I acquired a pair of charcoal grey flannel trousers, which are practically black in my book, and would not go with brown shoes I owned at the time.

I will conclude by opining that dark brown, not black Oxford, is the most versatile dress shoe. Blues, browns, lighter, and probably even mid-greys - everything works.

What do you think?
 

Noblekostas

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Dark Brown and Burgundy/Oxblood are the most versatile colors out there for me. I only own one pair of Black Oxfords (coincidentally Vladimir will review them on a video tonight) but I prefer the other colors by a mile.
 

Keith Taylor

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I feel this is one of those nuggets of wisdom that made sense back in the day when a gentleman had to wear a suit to work, and due to budget constraints he had to make do with what he had. Back then it may have held true. A black dress shoe is acceptable in pretty much every setting for which a suit might be necessary, so it was by definition the most versatile option because the rest of a man’s formal wardrobe would be purchased to suit the same circumstances. Buy black first, then expand when the budget allows for variation. Today, though? Nah.

I own more shoes than my wife - some mean feat - but tonight I wore one of my two pairs of black Oxfords for the first time in several months. Not because I actually wanted to wear black, but because I’ve just had a too tight in the waist charcoal d’Avenza blazer let out, I wanted an excuse to show it off and brown didn’t quite work with such a formal jacket (I was also wearing a pair of mid-grey Turnbull & Asser trousers, so I don’t think you’d have enjoyed the combination per your later paragraph). It wasn’t the shoes that were versatile, but the rest of the outfit that was constrictive. I was forced into black as a last resort.

Brown in - *glances at shoe rack* - about seven subtly different shades is much more useful than black for me. Even if I only had one pair of brown Oxfords I’m certain I’d wear them more than the black, because they just better fit a casual and varied modern wardrobe.
 

yanagi

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I think any-colored oxford isn't going to be "the most" versatile shoe because oxfords are a formal-type of shoe. Bluchers/derbies are less formal, which arguably makes them more versatile these days.

I also think you're way over-limiting the colors that can go with a black oxford. Black oxfords are perfectly fine with navy suits. The suit color is dark, and the shoe color is dark, so it doesn't attract unwanted attention the way a navy suit + tan shoe does.

To me, there's also nothing wrong with black oxfords and dark brown suits. The principle is the same: no unwanted attention to your feet.
 
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mhip

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"Bluchers/derbies are less formal, which arguably makes them more versatile these days"

That reminds me of one of my gripes...
Sales sites, like Gilt, have a habit of listing these as Oxfords.
 

madhat

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"Bluchers/derbies are less formal, which arguably makes them more versatile these days"

That reminds me of one of my gripes...
Sales sites, like Gilt, have a habit of listing these as Oxfords.
And oxfords as balmorals.
 

dieworkwear

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Taste is subjective, but black with navy is a classic combination. Much of classic men's dress derives from Beau Brummell, who wore navy, grey, and black. Navy officer uniforms also include a navy "suit" with black shoes.

I don't wear my black oxfords much because I don't wear formal suits that often. But if someone were to wear suits often, I'd say black is more versatile than brown.
 

amiga505

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I think any-colored oxford isn't going to be "the most" versatile shoe because oxfords are a formal-type of shoe. Bluchers/derbies are less formal, which arguably makes them more versatile these days.

While I agree that sporting a pair of more casual shoes with a sport coat and odd trousers outfit is a nice touch, goes in line with the overall formality and... well... may just be a perfect opportunity to wear your favourite pair of split-toe derbies, brown Oxfords will still do the job.
 

amiga505

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Taste is subjective, but black with navy is a classic combination. Much of classic men's dress derives from Beau Brummell, who wore navy, grey, and black. Navy officer uniforms also include a navy "suit" with black shoes.

I don't wear my black oxfords much because I don't wear formal suits that often. But if someone were to wear suits often, I'd say black is more versatile than brown.

I sense this subjectivity, at least in regards to this particular matter, so no objections here. It's like a switch flipped in my head all of a sudden, and just seeing these two colours together is not pleasing to the eye... and I just can't shake it.
 

comrade

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I don't like oxfords. I have black derbies/bluchers for more formal dress.
 

emptym

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The picture in the OP is misleading imo. It juxtaposes two pieces of cloth when the real question is whether polished black leather goes with navy cloth.

I don't know if many here think black captoed oxfords are the most versatile shoe. I think they're recommended as one's first serious dress shoe, since as people have mentioned, they go so well with dark suits, which a lot of jobs required and which people have long recommended for job interviews. But yes, as fewer people wear dark suits on a daily basis or even for job interviews, they're becoming less useful.

I agree with what others have mentioned re. dark brown or burgundy shoes being more versatile than black. Personally, I prefer Alden's LHS penny loafer as the most versatile, as it works well with everything from shorts to suits. I'd be pretty happy owning just three pairs of dress shoes: two LHS in brown/burgundy (to be able to rotate them) and one in black for less regular wear.
 

FlyingHorker

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I'd argue chocolate suede oxfords are the most versatile shoe.

You can wear them relatively casually and also with most suits.

A black oxford would be the least versatile shoe in my wardrobe as I haven't worn a suit in 2+ years.
 

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